I know there are many threads on this topic, but I need your advice.

i couldn’t get the spindle lock pin out so I took it to a local machine shop.  I said he could take out the spindle pin too.  He removed the lock pin but stripped one end of the pin.  He said he heated the entire area to almost glowing red, but the spindle pin wouldn’t budge. 

Advice please:  he wants to now cut thru the spindle pin between the gaps where the strut joins the link.  He’ll then remove the strut assembly and then focus on removing the remainder of the pin from the link.

thoughts?

Edited July 31, 20195 yr by wadelester

Was he pounding or using a press?  I got fooled on one because the pin was actually stuck in the ribber bushing.  So it would move in the cast housing when I pounded on it but the bushing would pull it back.  Looked it was stuck in he housing but it was stuck in the bushing.

You can put a lug nut on the end of the pin and spin it.  Same thread.  This will break up rust and get some lubricant moved around.

In the end though, many people cut it like he wants to do.

41 minutes ago, wadelester said:

I know there are many threads on this topic, but I need your advice.

i couldn’t get the spindle lock pin out so I took it to a local machine shop.  I said he could take out the spindle pin too.  He removed the lock pin but stripped one end of the pin.  He said he heated the entire area to almost glowing red, but the spindle pin wouldn’t budge. 

Advice please:  he wants to now cut thru the spindle pin between the gaps where the strut joins the link.  He’ll then remove the strut assembly and then focus on removing the remainder of the pin from the link.

thoughts?

That's how I did it....

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?do=findComment&comment=482265

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?do=findComment&comment=482551

Edited July 31, 20195 yr by wheee!

Glowing red is good now have him crank the press up to about 60 ton, that is usually where they pop.

Thanks for your input.

He had a 50 ton press with no luck.  I gave him the go-ahead on cutting the pin...fingers crossed.

Thanks again.

I needed 60 plus tonnes for mine to pop.

I used a puller rather than a press and it worked great.  They came right out.  I made my own puller, but it looks like Zcar Depot sells a puller.  https://zcardepot.com/products/spindle-pin-removal-tool-240z-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=5e110014f&_ss=r

 

I made three pullers and they literally self destructed trying to make any difference to the spindle pin.
A puller will work on a ‘loose’ pin. It will have zero luck on a ‘stuck’ pin.
See my thread for pics of the exploded pullers.

Edited August 1, 20195 yr by wheee!

Cutting through the pins at the small gap between the control arm and the knuckle is SOP. Just make sure he has enough gap for the saw blade width and doesn't damage either the arm or the knuckle.

Good luck. And remember that it's a rite of passage. 

Yup. I've been lucky with most of the spindle pins I've had to remove but I've had three or four that had to be cut and the remnants pressed out.

There's one thing I've noticed about many of the spindles I've extracted: The metal is relatively soft and is "mushroomed" at the edge(s) of the Lock Bolt chamfer easily by improper installation of the Lock Bolt. I've pulled quite a few that were not locked due to corrosion but were difficult to move because of the "swelling" near the Lock Bolt. I've generally found that if I can rotate the spindle, I can usually knock it out with a drift - even if it's mushroomed. Always put your Lock Bolts in correctly and torque them properly to avoid this type of damage to the middle of the spindle.

Edited August 1, 20195 yr by cgsheen1

Most of us have some sort of horror story with spindle pins being the center of attention.

Mine was the passenger side. The drivers side came out so easily I could re-use it again if needed. I thought, "what are all these guys talking about". 2-1/2 days later I knew all too well.

My advice based on my humble experience:

If it looks rusted and seized just saw through it. Saw between the strut and both lower control arm pivots so you can get to the seized section in the strut. Be careful not to cut into the strut or control arm.

Heat the strut until it has a dull glow, but don't point the torch at the end of the spindle pin. You do NOT want to heat the spindle pin. The idea is to heat the strut so it will expand and release some of its grip on the spindle. Then you can press it out. If you heat the spindle pin ends too much they will become soft. The end will mushroom from the pressure you put on it and it will expand and seize in the strut making it more difficult to push through.

When removing the outer two sections of the spindle pin from the control arm. Heat the control arm only. That will transfer through the control arm to the rubber insulator and it will soften release. Hold the threaded end of the spindle pin with pliers or vice grips and keep trying to turn it. Eventually it will let go and you can pull it out with the rubber. The outer tube from the bush can then be removed. That is the easiest way I found to remove these rubbers in general. A lot of people try to burn them out, creating a lot of toxic fumes and smoke.

Good luck.

Edited August 2, 20195 yr by EuroDat

Thanks to all of you...your insight (and encouragement) help keep my project moving. 

The machine shop cut the pin, applied heat, and applied 90 tons of pressure.  For $75 I had him remove the lock pin, spindle pin, and strut cap.

considering he probably had three hours into it, I guess it wasn’t too bad.

I’ll do the other side soon.

thanks again.