Removing 280z tail housing

[AZDatsun]

I Removed the 8 12mm bolts from the tail housing, I also removed the little pin with the c clip. What do I have to do next to separate the tail section? The striker arm now moves out about an inch or 2 inches.

 

 

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[Dave WM]

IIRC striker rod has to be turned to the extreme CCW (viewed from behind). That will clear out the fork from the shift rods. I assume it has a reverse lockout if you are working on a ZX.

this guy just beats the heck of it, then twist the rear section off to release the striker rod from the shift forks.

 

Edited August 11, 2019 by Dave WM

[AZDatsun]

Ok yeah I just beat it off the dowel pins with a rubber mallet now onto second problem. How do I get this bolt out so I can remove the striking rod? I saw in your video the transmission has a port and you could just knock it out. Looks like the 77-78 does not have that port so there is almost no room in there




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[Dave WM]

ok so no reverse lock out, think your best bet would be to put a nut back on it and just get as small a tapping device as you can find and start in on it. its wedged in but will come out. you maybe able to get some channel locks in there and see if you can squeeze on it the nut (protect the threads) with a socket on the other side for the pin  to press into.

I know its a PITA.

Edited August 11, 2019 by Dave WM

[EuroDat]

I agree. Put the nut back on just enough to cover the top threads. Tap it with a small hammer or similar. If it won't let go, you can try to heat the arm. DON'T heat the threaded bolt (coter pin). It should release easier then.

[AZDatsun]

Nope not budging tried heat also. I wonder what the official tool/method was. It seems a tool like a bike chain pin remover would be great but those are too small.

 

 

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[Patcon]

I put the nut back on it most of the way. Lay a steel bar into the case laying on the nut and strike it with a hammer. It should come out.

[Dave WM]

try cold, invert a can of dust off, aim at the nut, freeze to shrink the nut/pin.

[AZDatsun]

Tried the steel bar method and hitting it with a 5# hammer still not budging going to try the freeze method next after I pick up some dust off


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[Zed Head]

Have you tried sliding the striker back and forth, hard, to loosen it up?    You could also double-nut the threads and give it some hard twisting.  If I know the shape it's a wedge that should pop free if stressed right.

[jonathanrussell]

I did this last summer and it is very frustrating trying to apply enough force but not damage the bolt. In the end, what worked for me is a combination of what EuroDat and Patcon wrote. I used lots of heat. left the nut on to protect the threads. Tried to avoid heating the bolt and instead direct heat to the fork body. Key though was to use a steel bar resting on the nut so that I could hammer from closer to outside of the housing. I used a 3/8" socket extension with the square side resting on the nut. I would heat and then tap. Eventually, it moved. I bet I worked at it for 2 hours too. Be patient and it will eventually free up. 

[AZDatsun]

This on on the same list with removing spindle pins as a headache.. you would think there would be a better design.. of course the fsm just says remove striking arm bolt.. I am surprised it doesn’t show a finger just pushing it out. I am giving in and going to try and take it somewhere. At least on the later 5speeds you have a way to get to it via the reverse lockout hole in the case.


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