Removing 280z tail housing

[Zed Head]

How about drilling the other end of the pin, threading it, and using a slide hammer?

[Dave WM]

did you try ZH double nut idea? what you need is some kind of small press like device (puller for ball joints etc...) the thing is once is cracks loose you cant believe it could ever get that stuck. Its not rusted or any other way of corroded on.

[jonathanrussell]

I would be careful about taking it some place and letting anyone swing away at it. They'll get it out....but.

I do agree that removing this bolt is on par with spindle pins. Actually, I think it is worse. 

The good news for me is I am refreshing a 4spd transmission later this month so will enjoy the bolt removal joy again.

Best of luck!

Edited August 13, 2019 by jonathanrussell

[AZDatsun]

I haven’t tried the double nut idea yet. I am in AZ and dealing with a 120 degree garage so I only work for a little bit in the morning. Do you think once I get it out if replacing it with a regular bolt would be ok?

 

 

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[Dave WM]

1 hour ago, ryanotown22 said:

I haven’t tried the double nut idea yet. I am in AZ and dealing with a 120 degree garage so I only work for a little bit in the morning. Do you think once I get it out if replacing it with a regular bolt would be ok?

 

 

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oh no, its a wedge bolt, you will see when you get it out. precision fit to the two parts. Its a little incomprehensible as to why it get stuck in the 1st place. The slightest movement should set it free.

Edited August 13, 2019 by Dave WM

[Patcon]

If you have a drill or drill press and some taps you might could make a tool to free it. Take a piece of steel schedule 40 pipe big enough to go all the way over the bolt and arm. Drill a hole in the pipe and tap it for a bolt, maybe 1/2" or 7/16". Make a hole on the opposite side for the wedge bolt to push out of. Slide it over the wedge bolt & arm and thread the "press" bolt into the pipe against the nut on the end of the wedge bolt to force it out

Edit: Home depot has some black and galv sched 40 pipe. If it doesn't have to be too big of an id. I don't remember off the top of my head how big you would need. You might could just buy a close nipple the right size so you don't have to buy a long piece of pipe

Edited August 13, 2019 by Patcon

[AZDatsun]

Well it’s not my proudest moment but it’s out took a 90 degree drill and lots of bits



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[Patcon]

Did you ruin the shifter fork?

[AZDatsun]

Everything looks good the rod is a little bent from all my hammering but nothing I can’t straighten. The little arm where the bolt goes through does have a little damage from the drill but it’s not on the rod side so I don’t think it will affect use. I have another bolt arriving Tuesday so I will know then. The slot on the rod where the bolt locks into is also fine

 

 

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[AZDatsun]

New pin arrived today in the mail it’s copper color unlike the one I took out that was silver but it fits perfect no play at all between the arm and the rod. I also was able to straighten out the rod pretty easily. Now I am just waiting on my o rings from courtesynissan to ship before I can put it together again.

 

 

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[AZDatsun]

Got the trans back in and it won’t go in/out of gear well there goes 2 hours of my life I won’t get back. Dropping it back out tonight to figure out what is wrong


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[Dave WM]

I gotta ask, you did try shifting thru the gears before installing it right? What was the initial issue that required the removal of the tail housing?