Last year we bought a 1978 280z from a neighbor for our sons first car. It had been our neighbors sons car and had sat in her garage for the last 11 years. We've spent the last year getting it road worthy (new fuel lines, relined the tank, new suspension bushings, all new fluids and spark plugs, new tires/wheels, got the lights and blinkers working). Finally went to register and get emissions. And boy did we fail. HC at 977 (limit of 400) and CO at 7.28 (limit of 1.5). Also, the gas cap didn't seal. We knew it was likely to have problems, but seems pretty bad.

The previous owner had lived where there were no emissions tests and was a high school kid, so he did a couple of things. He replaced the exhaust with an after market (not sure of make, but it's loud). Not sure if car originally had a catalytic converter, but it doesn't have one now. Just straight back to a small muffler.

He also removed all of the Emission Control System. EGR is not hooked up. BPT and almost all hoses are gone. See picture for the little that is left.

I'm hoping for some thoughts on where to start (other than the gas cap. I can figure that one out). I'm not a car guy. Just a dad trying to help his 15 year old learn (lots of reading and youtube videos). We'll tackle about anything, but where should we start working? Thanks for the help.

 

29 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

We have bombarder this fellow. I apologize for the group. It's a game we play, who's first with the answer.

My smartphone is like the Coleco football game I played when I was a kid.

I understand. I'm walking into an area where you all have great experience and I'm the nub. I'm bound to get overwhelmed till I at least start to catch up. Not a problem. 

1 hour ago, thetwood said:

I can'd fine any numbers or markings on the injectors top or bottom...

I've had the injectors out of my 1983 280ZX a few times, and those look like OEM injectors to me. They're weathered enough to show that they've been installed for a long time.

Edited September 1, 20195 yr by Pilgrim

Those injectors aren't what I thought they were.  Nissan injectors all have the same number on the side, and use different colors to differentiate volume.  There should be a number/letter like A11000...  in this spot, below.  You have mystery injectors.  They could be 265 cc aftermarket turbo injectors instead of 188 cc NA injectors. That might explain the low fuel pressure and the reason he used an adjustable regulator.  Aftermarket injectors come in a variety of colors.

So, unfortunately, you might find that you are unable to raise fuel pressure to spec. without causing the engine to run really rich.  

That is what I was thinking too. They are normally green in colour. I couldn't find anything on the colour, but they could be turbo injectors. That would make sense of the low fuel pressure.

Does it make sense to change the injectors to oem? Or do I need to figure out what else was done to the engine first?

If you find that your fuel pressure really is low and can't be raised then that would be an option.  Or you could have them flow-tested to see what you have.  It's just another unknown at this point.

I was thinking that you might want to have them flow tested for two reasons. First, to determine what you have. Second, although it's running smoothly, it would be good to find out how well they are working.  

If they turn out to be turbo injectors, you should be able to find a buyer if you have the test results to show they're working well.  

11 minutes ago, Pilgrim said:

I was thinking that you might want to have them flow tested for two reasons. First, to determine what you have. Second, although it's running smoothly, it would be good to find out how well they are working.  

If they turn out to be turbo injectors, you should be able to find a buyer if you have the test results to show they're working well.  

Suggestions on where to go to get them tested?

15 minutes ago, thetwood said:

Suggestions on where to go to get them tested?

I've had this done once or twice, but it's not "rocket surgery" so there are many options you can find online. 

Mine were done in 2016 by Cruzin Performance, 1509 N. Orchard Drive, Traverse City, M 49686.  Phone: 213.796.5705.  (I keep a careful file, and found the receipt.)

I didn't request separate data on each injector, and don't recall if I got it.  The time previous to that, probably 15+ years ago, I used a gent in SOCAL and he labeled each injector separately.  You might request that detail.

Edited September 1, 20195 yr by Pilgrim

OK. Here's my current plan after getting all of this advice:

1) I have a new fuel pressure gauge on the way. Confirm what the pressure really is.

2) I'm going to remove the fuel injectors and send them to be flow tested/cleaned. Figure out what I actually have.

3) I'm working on getting a charcoal canister and bracket. You were right, the new non-venting gas cap caused a vacuum in the gas tank without one.

Trying to decide how much else to change out. Should I switch back to a stock fuel rail while I already have the injectors out? that way I can add cold start back into the system?

May take me a while to get through this part, but I'm sure I'll have more questions once I get through some of this...

My similar fuel rail has a T out the back. One side to the cold start, the other to an original equipment fuel pressure regulator from a '78. Worked out good for me. I can post up some pictures tomorrow if you want.

Cliff

8 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

My similar fuel rail has a T out the back. One side to the cold start, the other to an original equipment fuel pressure regulator from a '78. Worked out good for me. I can post up some pictures tomorrow if you want.

Cliff

That would be great if you could. I don't mind continuing to get closer to stock, but it's going to take a lot of searching for parts, tracking things down and cost of course. If I can continue using things we already have that helps...

My first goal is to pass emissions. Doing so allows my son to drive to school and back and buys us time to make additional changes.