Failed CO emissions - all controls removed - where to start?

[Zed Head]

Another thought, and a reason to just go  through the whole series of EFI component tests and measurements.  If your coolant temperature sensor circuit is "open" the ECU will dump loads of extra fuel thinking that it's super cold out.  It might be that that is the reason the PO lowered the fuel pressure.

You already have many of the important numbers.  Keep measuring and confirming.  A multimeter is a very valuable tool for the EFI systems.

You might save yourself some time and money by doing the full set of tests first.

Edited September 6, 2019 by Zed Head

[thetwood]

Going to leave the AFM alone for now. Planning on going through the fuel injection system and testing everything we can, testing vacuum, etc.

Did fine out a few more pieces of info. Haven't verified, but PO says the injectors should be original type, not turbo (we'll see). He did change out the throttle body, as many had observed. He also switched the cam to a Schnieder Racing Cam. I'm not sure exactly what that does or will mean, but one more piece of the puzzle.

My son turned 16 two days ago, so he wanted to get up early and go to Cars and Coffee. Gratuitous pic of him (the one with long hair) next to his car. He had a blast and we had a lot of people stopping to talk. Everyone had one or knew someone who did and have fond memories. Was fun.

[Patcon]

The factory system probably won't like the schneider cam. Schneider offers a lot of different cams. You will need to try to pin that down further

[thetwood]

Will figure out how to get the exact model/type cam.

And thanks to everyone for setting me straight on the AFM. When it didn't look like the pics and with all the stuff from JEGS PO had ordered, my mind just saw that vs JECS... Need to pay more attention...

[thetwood]

Question for everyone. How do I identify the model/type of cam? Pulled the valve cover, but the camshaft is just labeled Japan and C on one side, and E30 on the other. The C is on it's own raised section on the shaft. To fully identify, would I need to pull the camshaft? If so, I have a bit of research to do as I've never done so.

[siteunseen]

Here's a Schneider I have. The front is scribed with the info.

Go to Schneider's website and find the info. Mine is a 280F

You'll have remove the cam sprocket though I beleive. Whole nother can of worms!

Edited September 8, 2019 by siteunseen

[siteunseen]

Older Efi cars use milder cams from what I've read. Go to motorsportsauto.com or MSA and read their cam recommendations for fuel injection. They sale Schneider cams. You might save yourself some trouble just assuming your cam came from them? A shot in the dark...

[Zed Head]

I just noticed something odd, but can't be sure.  It looks like the pressure gauge might be on the return line to the tank.  It should be between the fuel filter and the rail.

Not really sure how the pressure would vary with the vacuum hose connected if it is on the return line, but worth double checking.  Maybe the FPR is connected incorrectly.

[Patcon]

Be very careful removing the cam sprocket. If you let slack into the chain the tensioner will pop out and it will require a lot more disassembly!

[siteunseen]

10 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Be very careful removing the cam sprocket. If you let slack into the chain the tensioner will pop out and it will require a lot more disassembly!

There it is!  

If you're not careful that timing chain tensioner will ruin your day/week. The cheap plastic ones are very scary to use trust me. If you have some hardwood scraps you can make your own. I will trace around mine and fax it to you then you can make your own. If you get that far let me know. Yep, still have a fax machine.  If YOU don't I will scan and email it to you.

Edited September 8, 2019 by siteunseen

[siteunseen]

Oh, I'm talking about the tool you'll have to have to push in the tensioner. ?

[siteunseen]

17 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I just noticed something odd, but can't be sure.  It looks like the pressure gauge might be on the return line to the tank.  It should be between the fuel filter and the rail.

Not really sure how the pressure would vary with the vacuum hose connected if it is on the return line, but worth double checking.  Maybe the FPR is connected incorrectly.

Hard to tell isn't it!