1 hour ago, Dave WM said:

I made the one from the down load plans. 

The one I scanned? If it worked I'm happy. I wasn't sure the true size would come out on a printed piece of paper. Thanks

1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

The one I scanned? If it worked I'm happy. I wasn't sure the true size would come out on a printed piece of paper. Thanks

honeslty cant recall, but it did have dimenions, and I did have to adjust printer setup.

Edited September 9, 20195 yr by Dave WM

it was a little oversized (I may have just cut it a bit larger when cutting the wood) had to sand it in spots, not a big deal.

That's much better than what I did!

Remember this!

That's for an L20 motor. Are they the same length chain?

Edit#1

The measurements are so close it is the same.

Edited September 9, 20195 yr by siteunseen

Injectors are off to be flow tested, so type/flow can be nailed down. Not sure what the full turn time will be, but expecting a few weeks with shipping in each direction.

I'm a bit nervous about pulling the camshaft after the warnings. I don't mind digging into things, but would prefer to not need to pull the fan, etc. I have the time to do this as I'm waiting for the injectors, but sounds like it may make sense to test other things first. But do appreciate all the help with the tension retainer. I'm going to go ahead and cut one out now to have and test. 

Per @Dave WM, I'll read up on how to test the ECU and temp sensor. Also still working on tracking down some parts to go back closer to original like the charcoal canister.

Given the work involved in dealing with the cam, I'd probably leave it in place, take care of the rest of the things you've identified and see how it runs. 

If you had a good dial caliper you could just measure to determine cam lift. Might be some math here but somebody on the forum can probably help fill in the blanks. There is probably a simple way to determine duration, maybe a dial indicator and a home made degree wheel. That way you wouldn't have to pull the cam gear. Then match it up to the closest Schneider cam specs. Should get you really close

You should be able to very easily measure the base circle to at least determine if it's a stock grind or not. No calculations, no degree wheel.

If it measures out to a stock base circle, you're done. If not, we can talk about that later?

Don't pull that cam gear off now. Absolutely not. Way far down on the list of things that might get done. Or not.

Going by my '77 and what I did as far as removing everything like your sons car, my honest opinion would be go back to a '78 fuel pressure regulator with that fuel rail.  Unless you injectors are some fuel hogs it should run fine with the OE style FPR.  I ran into that same dilemma when I did mine but after tons of reading I found the '78 one inlet style was sufficient.  Maybe the previous owner read something I missed but I doubt it.

19 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

You should be able to very easily measure the base circle to at least determine if it's a stock grind or not. No calculations, no degree wheel.

If it measures out to a stock base circle, you're done. If not, we can talk about that later?

Don't pull that cam gear off now. Absolutely not. Way far down on the list of things that might get done. Or not.

I'm new enough to all of this that I'm not sure what exactly I'm supposed to measure here. Advice on where to read/learn more so I know what I'm doing?

1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

Going by my '77 and what I did as far as removing everything like your sons car, my honest opinion would be go back to a '78 fuel pressure regulator with that fuel rail.  Unless you injectors are some fuel hogs it should run fine with the OE style FPR.  I ran into that same dilemma when I did mine but after tons of reading I found the '78 one inlet style was sufficient.  Maybe the previous owner read something I missed but I doubt it.

I was looking at the OE FPR and have a question. With the fuel rail that I have it doesn't look much like the pictures in the EFI book. It's basically tank > fuel filter > Rail (injectors) > return > FPR > back into tank. Maybe not too much different than stock rail, but less loops and such. If I get a stock FPR, do I just put it on the return line after it's gone through the aftermarket rail?