Hi all, decided to share my recent install of Datsun Spirit ITB's. Got tired of fiddling with the SU's and I always liked the look of 6 velocity stacks on these engines. A friend at work loves my car, but he is a young guy who likes modern stuff! He tried to get me to swap in an RB26, we compromised on ITB's. He provided his garage and his labour for the privilege of working on the car!  The motor is bored out 85mm, 280Z crank, 268 comp cam with a street port and polish, it was always very finicky with the SU's, for some reason the weather seemed to affect the way it ran and idled, and it always ran rich even with nozzles turned down to only a 1/2 turn from closed. Anyway that is all history!

Several thousand dollars saw delivery of an ECU masters Classic black ECU, ECU masters wiring harness ( very good value, all labelled for each coil, injector and sensor for about 110 US),Burton fuel sump which allows retention of all fuel lines and mechanical pump,One Six Industries crank angle sensor, Patton Machine coil bracket, F150 coils, and of course the beautiful Jenvey ITB's, manifold, injectors and Datsun Spirit designed heat shield. 

M

 

18 hours ago, northernz said:

Hey Grannyknot, I talked to Eiji at Spirit Datsun about a filter setup, he said "where am I driving, the Sahara?"! Doesn't use them  at all on his car. 

He builds engines.  He probably just rebuilds his every 20,000 miles.  And never drives through construction zones or if the wind is blowing.

2 hours ago, jonbill said:

I appreciate that, but why bother keeping the TBs cool? 

Keeping the injectors cool is probably worth doing.  That is the source of the heat soak/hot start problem for many EFI systems, apparently.

If the shields block air flow then they also block hot air rising from the exhaust system.  So, dual function, radiant and convective.

Keeping the injectors cool is probably worth doing.  That is the source of the heat soak/hot start problem for many EFI systems, apparently.
If the shields block air flow then they also block hot air rising from the exhaust system.  So, dual function, radiant and convective.

Good to know, thanks.

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

He builds engines.  He probably just rebuilds his every 20,000 miles.  And never drives through construction zones or if the wind is blowing.

I recently rebuilt carbs with no filters. What a pile of dirt and silt inside. The engine is also blowing oil through the top of valve cover so open air engines is not a good thing nor cool based on first hand observations.

I notice a lot of road grit is thrown up by the vehicles in front as they pass over it.  It is very noticeable when traveling behind a truck with a Jersey Barrier on the side. Grit collects at the barrier and you sand blast your car as you drive through the wake of the truck in front.

I rembered some honey cone comb looking filters from a few days ago. They looked really good! Finally found them under my nose.

Edited September 6, 20195 yr by siteunseen

MikeW also runs a fine mesh filter on his carbs

If you have Weber's, there is an open air inlet to the fuel bowl on the front face that some filters do not cover.

Those honeycomb filters look like the perfect compromise, I really like the look of them.The heat shield works very well for radiant energy off the headers, just using the back of my hand I can feel the difference in temp above and below the shield.

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I'm doing the same.  Super cool setup!

Your set up looks great!

You could also go with something like these, great while you are on the road and you can pull them off for car shows.

 

 

If you want. I would sell you my honeycomb filters at a loss. I don’t like the look of them for some reason. The fit is tight. But they work. 

Thanks for the offer, I'll let you know via pm!

On 9/6/2019 at 2:08 AM, northernz said:

Hi all, decided to share my recent install of Datsun Spirit ITB's. Got tired of fiddling with the SU's and I always liked the look of 6 velocity stacks on these engines. A friend at work loves my car, but he is a young guy who likes modern stuff! He tried to get me to swap in an RB26, we compromised on ITB's. He provided his garage and his labour for the privilege of working on the car!  The motor is bored out 85mm, 280Z crank, 268 comp cam with a street port and polish, it was always very finicky with the SU's, for some reason the weather seemed to affect the way it ran and idled, and it always ran rich even with nozzles turned down to only a 1/2 turn from closed. Anyway that is all history!

Several thousand dollars saw delivery of an ECU masters Classic black ECU, ECU masters wiring harness ( very good value, all labelled for each coil, injector and sensor for about 110 US),Burton fuel sump which allows retention of all fuel lines and mechanical pump,One Six Industries crank angle sensor, Patton Machine coil bracket, F150 coils, and of course the beautiful Jenvey ITB's, manifold, injectors and Datsun Spirit designed heat shield. 

Hi @northernz, hope you are doing well and people see your Z rollin' and might be hatin' but the real deal is you being happy with it !

I am almost getting on the EMS part of my build, and beside having a MS3 Pro Evo and not an ECU master black ECU, we have very similar setup (Jenvey ITB, 1-6industries CAS, F150 individual coils) so I was wondering if you have any experience to share on the EFI setup ? I have contacted AMP EFI support and Matt advised me on the following:

1. Too much dwell and these coils will advance your timing at unwanted points. Keep nominal dwell at 3.5 ms or less.

2. Is this the CAS you are looking to use? https://www.onesixindustries.com/product/nissan-datsun-l-series-crank-angle-sensor If so, set the spark mode to toothed wheel, the wheel type to a single wheel with 24 base teeth and one missing tooth, spinning at cam speed.

Thank you in advance, and hope to see more pics of your Z.

Edited March 3, 20214 yr by BAS_DXB