This area is weakest link. Red lines are leak paths:

Edited October 31, 20195 yr by 240260280

Ready for assembly...
Got bearings, main seals and new head bolts.
Waiting on my rings and head gasket.
Reading trough the “ How to modify your Datsun OHC engine” last night he states that you only need to worry about shimming cam towers and chain slack when the head has be shave .0030 or more from stock. So I’m thinking I should be good with my .0014.




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For a full rebuild, shimming is not needed when you have access to tensioner and chain guides.

On ‎10‎/‎30‎/‎2019 at 4:43 PM, 240260280 said:

Some JB Weld to fill and a flat to knock down would do the trick.

I concur. A little JB Weld "spackle" in those divots should be fine. I like the chain of lakes analogy.

So I've never used that copper spray stuff... Is it "authorized" for use on head gaskets?

I've used the copper spray on every head gasket I installed with no problems.. even on lawn mowers and snow blowers.  Belts and braces when ever possible.

 

Edited November 1, 20195 yr by 240260280

I had an “Oh Crap!” moment today installing the crankshaft. Was almost finished and torquing the main caps down. Followed the book exactly. While torquing cap #5 it happened. When the bolt goes from tight to loose all of a sudden. Yep, she broke. Torque wrench was set to 38 ft lbs. book says 33-40 ft lbs. I opted for something in the middle. Only good thing was there was enough threads sticking out after removing the cap that I was able to grab it with a vise grip and she came out easily. No tapping required. So, I’m at a work stoppage. I’ve lost confidence in the rest of the bolts so I’m ordering a new set.

http://datnissparts.com/ld28-main-cap-bolts-set-of-14-for-datsun-l6-l24-l26-l28-240z-260z-280z-280zx-810-910-maxima-12293-v0700/

Planning on buying these.

Yes, I confirmed the torque setting, wrench is new and high quality and I didn’t miss the break point inadvertently.





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At least you got it out. Probably better it broke than get used and cause problems later

Edited November 1, 20195 yr by Patcon

I agree. Would have been far worse if it happened later while driving passing 5000 RPM. Now I wonder if I should change the rod bolts too. I know it’s not as easy as new bolts. I recall CO saying there needs to be something done to at the shop level to make the fitment correct.





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There as been a lot of discussion about large sizing if rod bolts are changed. Madkaw is dealing with that I believe

Agreed. That would have been a whole lot worse if it had happened while the engine was running.

So about that website... Did you see this note on their home page?

THIS SITE IS CURRENTLY ON HIATUS AND IS IN DISPLAY-ONLY MODE

PLEASE FEEL FREE TO BROWSE BUT NO PARTS CAN BE SHIPPED AT THIS TIME

PRICES SHOWN DO NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING

VERY SORRY- I AM UNABLE TO TAKE PHONE CALLS REGARDING THIS WEBSITE

PLEASE DO NOT CALL

EMAILS WILL BE ANSWERED IN THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY ARE RECEIVED

HOWEVER DUE TO THE VOLUME OF EMAILS

REPLIES MAY NOT BE IMMEDIATE

I've bought some parts from them recently (anecdotally, including your rings and head gasket) and they will still do business through email, but they changed computer systems a little while ago and it completely messed up their vintage parts business. If you can't get things to work, let me know and I'll fire off an email to them.

Thanks CO. I just noticed the site problem around the time you sent this. I’ll email them and see where it goes.
Thanks again!


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Question, I ordered my rear main seal from Zcardepot and it came with

The main seal and two side seals but not side pins. This is supposed to be an OEM Nissan part (came in Nissan bag). It doesn’t come with

The metal side pins. Do I need these? I’ve already set the rear main cap with seal and side seals and RTV in the corners and notches where side seal go. Do I need to redo this and add those metal shims in there?

 

https://zcardepot.com/products/rear-main-seal-kit-engine-oem-240z-260z-280z?_pos=2&_sid=5908879bd&_ss=r

 

 

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