L28 from 82 ZX teardown

[Zed Head]

Just to fill out the possibilities - you don't have to remove the head to replace the timing chain and sprocket.  On the other hand, the chain and sprocket might have been replaced when the head was rebuilt, so the head might have that amount of wear.  And, to speedroo's point, a counterpoint - don't assume that you can do the best job possible.  Really, just do the cost/benefit analysis and be aware of the rabbit holes...

[siteunseen]

This is down the road but you might as well read up when your piled up in a hotel room.

Check Blues Tech Tips for the ZX to Z distributor upgrade if you got the ZX distributor with the motor.

Check the ZX alternator upgrade to. I think you need a plug off a ZX to splice into your Zs. Something to snag from a pick and pull you go to when your bored.

 

[Av8ferg]

ZH, I get your point. I’m not trying to avoid work but actually wanted a project. I don’t want throw money down the drain for no reason but putting a new chain and guide isn’t a big deal.

I thought that the EFI could handle a higher CR, if not that’s true then it’s a major consideration. I want a a reliable, smooth and string engine that will be installed in a restored car.

 

BTW here’s the order form from the yard. It has some info but this is all I know about the engine. Actually has the VIN of the car the engine came from.

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[Zed Head]

I had a warranty just like that so I hooked up my spare EFI system to make sure it ran right.  You'll be well past 30 days by the time it runs so really you don't have a warranty.  Probably fine, they're tough engines.

I was just trying to get a feel for how detailed your plan is.  

You could run a carb and go crazy and have more flexibility.

[siteunseen]

@Reptoid Overlords

Is about to crank his project. I'm sure you've read something about it? I'm almost positive he had it in an apartment in the beginning. That's way better than riding a motorcycle upstairs to go to Mardi Gras for a couple of weeks. That was easy except for the hard turn I didn't make at the top. 

[Av8ferg]

[mention=31744]Reptoid Overlords[/mention]
Is about to crank his project. I'm sure you've read something about it? I'm almost positive he had it in an apartment in the beginning. That's way better than riding a motorcycle upstairs to go to Mardi Gras for a couple of weeks. That was easy except for the hard turn I didn't make at the top. 

Cliff, you lost me on that post, are you drinking?


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[Patcon]

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

Cliff, you lost me on that post, are you drinking?


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Sometimes!!

[siteunseen]

11 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

Cliff, you lost me on that post, are you drinking?


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It's my closed head trauma from '97 plus a few 16oz beers.

I'll fill in the blanks later today.

 

[Reptoid Overlords]

[mention=31744]Reptoid Overlords[/mention]

Is about to crank his project. I'm sure you've read something about it? I'm almost positive he had it in an apartment in the beginning. That's way better than riding a motorcycle upstairs to go to Mardi Gras for a couple of weeks. That was easy except for the hard turn I didn't make at the top. 

Mine has been in a garage mostly. The last apartment I lived in I rode my Honda scooter into the lobby and into the elevator because I didn't want it to get stolen. Mostly drunk.

 

I've just gotten my engine installed in the car, and am pretty close to firing it up.

 

It's an F54/P79 out of an '82. It ran well when it was in the donor car. About 155k miles if I remember.

 

I kept the block as is, in other words, I didn't rebuild it. Just re sealed it. I did run hot compression checks in it when it was still in the rust pile it came out of. It was even across in the high 170's. I got lucky.

 

Anyway, I had the head shaved .080 as per the Z car garage write up. I gave the machine shop the parts and he installed them for me. It cost me about $350 after parts and labor.

 

It's kind of a budget modified build. Family comes first.

 

If you want the parts I used, I'll list them for you. When I get it running, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

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[siteunseen]

3 hours ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

Mine has been in a garage mostly. The last apartment I lived in I rode my Honda scooter into the lobby and into the elevator because I didn't want it to get stolen. Mostly drunk.

 

I've just gotten my engine installed in the car, and am pretty close to firing it up.

 

It's an F54/P79 out of an '82. It ran well when it was in the donor car. About 155k miles if I remember.

 

I kept the block as is, in other words, I didn't rebuild it. Just re sealed it. I did run hot compression checks in it when it was still in the rust pile it came out of. It was even across in the high 170's. I got lucky.

 

Anyway, I had the head shaved .080 as per the Z car garage write up. I gave the machine shop the parts and he installed them for me. It cost me about $350 after parts and labor.

 

It's kind of a budget modified build. Family comes first.

 

If you want the parts I used, I'll list them for you. When I get it running, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

 

@Av8ferg

 

 

[Av8ferg]

Okay, made some progress this AM. Had to invest in a 1/2 impact wrench to get the crank bolt off. Worked like a charm.
Head is off, no broken bolts. Lots of carbon build up but seems reasonable for 164k miles.
Oil pan is a disaster, dents everywhere and there was this extra metal strip on one end between bolts and pan . Looks like someone added it but maybe this is stock. See pics below I took. See anything that concerns anyone??






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[siteunseen]

The oil pan flats are 2 piece.  Remember the oil pan bolts are different lengths.  The short ones go in the block holes that are exposed looking from the top.

Hold on!  I may be wrong on those bolts.  Seems to make more sense the longer ones would go through the flat pieces.  Count the holes of the flats vs # of long bolts.  I had a hell of a time with my oil pan leaking while it was still on the engine stand.  I over tightened them once at least.  Get a loaner inch pound torque wrench from a chain store.  

If you want to clean some stuff cheap and easy get some walmart Great Value foam oven cleaner.  For all my piston assemblies, rod caps and what ever else from the inside I used lacquer thinner and some brass wire toothbrush looking things, also some real tooth brushes. 

Edited September 18, 2019 by siteunseen