Volt/Ohm meter

[444]

I am going to check some of the fuel injection components on my 1976 280z. I have a Sears Digital Volt/Ohm meter and I am a little confused on which setting to use. On my meter under ohms I have the following:     200     2000     20K     200k     2000k     

When I use the "200" setting I have a resistance of "1" just using the probes themselves. Therefore my confusion. 

Thanks in advance for any help.

[SteveJ]

I take it that you mean that you have a reading of 1 when the probes are touched together. That isn't necessarily a problem. Often you can see the resistance change just by changing the amount of pressure you are using to hold the probes against one another. Also the quality of the leads and build quality of the meter can cause some small resistance.

My old Fluke meter reads 0.3 Ohms with the leads held firmly against one another. I just account for that in my readings. Analog multimeters have a Zero Adjust for the needle when measuring resistance.

If you don't trust your meter, consider getting a Fluke 116 or 117. The Fluke 115 is cheaper, but it doesn't have the capability of the others. The 116 is nice in that it also comes with a thermocouple for temperature measurements. 

What are you trying to check on your fuel injection?

[wheee!]

Also make sure your probes aren't plugged into the current (amps) reading ports on the meter. Should be Ohms/volts and ground

[444]

I wanted to check the some of the components like water temp. sensor and other items using the 32 pin connector. I trust the meter, I'm just not sure which setting to use on the meter 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, or 2000k, I know I will get continuity measurement on any setting, but wanted to know if one was more "ideal" than the others.

[SteveJ]

If you're testing for continuity, use the lowest setting.

[dutchzcarguy]

This conversation remembers me to one time a friend measured the internal resistance of the electric network…  with in that time a common analog meter... the pointer on that meter acted like a fan!   

As we say in the Netherlands: schoenmaker blijf bij je leest!   Translated:  something like:  shoemaker stick to your own profession?

As schoolfriends we both bought a new analog multimeter... i'm proud to say: mine is still working on my bench…  the secret?  Look twice (!!!!)  at how your leads are plugged in, then look if the thing you are going to test is free of load.  not sure measure the voltage first and remember, capacitors hold voltage!

But electronics is'nt something you learn in a few month's..

To measure the injection system of a 280z of zx, a oscillograf would be much better….

Edited September 26, 2019 by dutchzcarguy

[dutchzcarguy]

19 hours ago, wheee! said:

make sure your probes aren't plugged into the current (amps) reading ports on the meter

You can Always check if the energy company gives you the amps they promised you? 

[Zed Head]

A good way to learn is to measure things that you already know are correct.  Battery voltage, an injector resistance, resistance across a good ground.  Look at correct measurements then the incorrect ones will make sense.

The last time I measured amperage I didn't need to because voltage showed me the same result, a circuit that was actuating a relay.  Then I blew the $12 fuse in the meter when I forgot to change the leads back and checked my battery voltage.  You'll never really need to measure amps on a Z or ZX.  Get the leads on the voltage/resistance terminals and never move them.