Timing chain guide

[JSM]

At least it’s in! In the end the engine doesn’t care about the V grooves. ?

 

[Captain Obvious]

Right, it doesn't care. And probably neither will anyone else. I've been in to multi-thousand mile engines recently and the timing marks still looked good.

That said, if I get the option, I'd like to have the marks. @Dave WM, I thought you had said earlier that the OSK had the timing marks. Is what you got different than a pic you were shown prior?

[Dave WM]

I don't recall saying that, but I may have just assumed it. Its all back together now, just have to tighten up the pan bolts, change the oil/filter, install the hoses and refill the cooling system.

oh and install the dizzy, Its clocked right 11:30 #1 rotor points to #1 spark. I will prob leave the splash guard off for a while so I can check for leaks etc... much easier to get at stuff with it off.

The plan is to finish up, then spin it with the valve cover off, plugs out, using the remote starter (no fuel or spark), to check the oil flow at the spray bar.

examination of the chain showed the obvious damage where the links had rubbed on the chain guide metal. Also I noted the new tensioner seemed to be MUCH smoother than the old one. And the grooves warn into the guide and the foot of the tensioner. I will post up some pics later.

Besides the chain kit I installed a new front seal, gaskets for the cover, oil pump and will do dizzy gasket as well. Had to make up a new gasket for the water inlet. Belts and hoses were fine, so left them alone. compressor tensioner bearing sounded fine, left alone. Did install a new water pump/gasket/OE bolt set just because. Installed the refurbed radiator, Note removing the lower shroud is very easy and makes it a snap to put back in, and its nice to be able to work on the fan and pump with the rad out then just slide it over the top. there are built in tangs that hold the rad while you get the bolts in, very easy.

I was a little unsure about how to tighten up the harmonic damper, I put the car in 4th stuck a large screw driver in the u joint a the diff (not sure that did anything) pulled the brake, then used some locktite (blue) and torqued  to about 110 ft pounds. The car inched forward so I don't know if that effected the readings, it would move some then stop and I would continue to torque until it clicked. I would like to find a junk starter and figure out some way of jamming the gear out and locked. then just bolt in bell housing to hold the flywheel.

 

 

[grannyknot]

7 hours ago, Dave WM said:

The plan is to finish up, then spin it with the valve cover off, plugs out, using the remote starter (no fuel or spark), to check the oil flow at the spray bar.

I did the same thing a few years ago on a healthy L28 and it took 28 seconds for oil to make it up to the cam, the wait is a bit nerve wracking.

[240260280]

Pour oil on cam lobes and rocker surfaces before spinning.

I would get 45 sec of cranking on my 77 280z after the winter sleep.

Edited October 3, 2019 by 240260280

[Dave WM]

will do. I used assy lube on the dizzy drive shaft where it passes thru the cover, prefilled the oil pump, will leave the valve cover off when doing the refill just dump oil directly on all the lobes and down on the chain as well to fill, and of course fill the oil filter before install. I generally apply assy lube to the cam lobes anytime I have it open and I know I will be doing an oil change.

[240260280]

an oiler can will shoot precisely too....especially for both rocker surfaces.

[Captain Obvious]

The restarting procedure sounds good to me. I made up a little remote starter button that I use. Push button switch with two pigtail wires. One of the pigtails has a female spade that plugs onto the starter solenoid (after disconnecting the original B/W wire) and the other pigtail has a clip that attaches to the battery terminal. Cranking that way (with the rest of the car completely off) produces motion without any of the other ancillary functions like spark or fuel. Fuel pump doesn't run, and the ignition and FI systems don't get power so they sleep through the process.

Make sure the car is not in gear.

And as for the thing about the OSK timing marks, my mistake. I thought you had said that the OSK did have the marks, but I guess that was the voices in my head.

Make sure the car is not in gear.

Oh, and make sure the car is not in gear.

[Dave WM]

I got that same setup for the remote starter, think I will check to see if the car is in gear. in gear. in gear. No carp, snorkel...

[Captain Obvious]

LOL!!  

[Dave WM]

all back but the splash pan and the bottom shroud. draining oil now, getting close. I saw a guy hold the crank by using the cam shaft boss and a adj wrench, the same setup as used when removing and installing the cam shaft bolt. guess since its the tight side under tension for tightening the crank bolt

 that would be fine. Think I will double check my crank bolt before I put that stuff back on as well.

Edited October 3, 2019 by Dave WM

[Av8ferg]

its all in just have to torque the guide nuts and the tensioner.
the OSK cam sprocket does NOT HAVE THE V GROOVE...
I ended up filing one I  right over the #1 hole, did not bother with putting them on the #2 or #3.
Geez...
I used some gasket sealant on the front seal. All out of the stuff I wanted to use on the gasket themselves (Permatex gray). So will make a run to the store for that.
will exercise care and use very sparingly, I don't like to use a lot of that stuff, just a little dab and then smear it on. Esp around that drainage trough around the water ways. would not want to block it  off.
Kinda PO about the missing V grooves on the cam sprocket, also the holes are more of them and smaller making it difficult to see anyway.

That’s a bummer. I was going to possibly get and OSK chain kit. I know the car doesn’t car but the owner does. Does any one know if the ITM has it?


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