Thanks man,

When I say I need to make up 10mm. I am saying I need a collar that has 10mm more throw than my old A style.

I don't blame you for tuning out of this. It has gotten convoluted and crazy to keep up with.

I had a talk with a guy at MSA this morning. He was very certain that a B collar would work. I didn't want to argue so I ordered a type B collar from them and a 280z 2+2 collar. If the B collar is close to what I am running now I will put in the 2+2 collar. 

With two day shipping I should have an update by this weekend.

Besides hard shifting, with the new suspension parts the car was very pleasant to drive. Took the turns real well and didn't smell like gas leaking from the tank. LOL.

Update. For reference in case someone runs into a similar struggle.

Got the car shifting correctly.

I was running a cheap aftermarket 240z "B" collar and it wasn't shifting right unless you really mashed the throw out bearing against the clutch fingers. That ruled out the pilot bearing, clutch hydraulics, and transmission. I also clamped the slave cylinder then pressed the clutch petal to test that it stayed firm.

I ordered a genuine nissan 240z clutch collar, a new clutch disc, and pressure plate. I put them in last night and the clutch completely disengaged. It is shifting great. I think it was the pressure plate. I used an air rachet and may have damaged it or it was defective out of the box.

A few tips that I learned:

The trans goes in easier if you cut the heads off a couple bolts that are the same size as the lower bolts. Thread them into the motor to make guide pins and remove them once the trans is in. The trans goes in super easy and there is less chance of hanging the trans from the clutch.

Don't use bolts to pull the trans into the motor. It will slide in right if everything is aligned right.

Put the trans in gear and move the output shaft a bit if the splines don't line up right away.

When using the clutch alignment tool, push up on it slightly when tightening the first two bolts on the pressure plate. The clutch disc will drop slightly if you don't put a little upwards pressure on the alignment tool. Leave alignment tool in when tightening pressure plate. Check a few times as you tighten to be sure the alignment tool still slides in smooth.

Don't use air tools on the clutch plate. Tighten the bolts in a star pattern a little at a time.

Before installing, slide the new clutch plate over the transmission input shaft splines to make sure it is smooth and doesn't get hung up.

Don''t try to reuse a early style "A" collar with an exedy clutch kit for a 1970-74 240z. The collar that goes with a "B" style trans is 2mm taller from the throw out bearing to where the fork attaches. The shift fork hit the housing using my original "A" style collar. You can also add a washer behind the fork pivot ball to shim it out. 

The slave cylinder adjustment rod needs to be shortened as the clutch wears. The fingers on the pressure plate will move towards the transmission as the clutch disc gets thinner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All good tips!

You had a aftermarket collar being the issue? News to me.

Never saw a aftermarket collar. Who makes that?

Sorry, the previous post was misleading. The problem was not the aftermarket collar. Either "B" collar would work. I damaged the pressure plate or it was defective.

The aftermarket 240z "B" collar was from Z car depot. It has a bearing attached and sells for $25. They also sell an OEM collar without bearing for $35.

I have some leftover parts that I will send out for the cost of shipping or pick up in Denver. The bearings on the collars are almost new or unused. I would hate to see them sit.

 

OEM 240z "A" collar with OEM throw out bearing  (not good with new clutch kits)

Aftermarket 240z "B" collar and throw out bearing

280z 2 + 2 collar without throw out bearing

An unused throw out bearing

Unused Pilot Bushing

21200-P7906 OEM Nissan Thermostat NOS fits 79-83zx. It came in a package deal and don't need it.