Advice on lifting engine?

[tanny]

Just work really slowly and methodically, eyeballing clearances as you go. No quick or jerky moves Keep your extremities out of the way in case it does drop. A helper is really nice. Victor.

[Z Kid]

Just a couple of things to point out or add, If you are using an engine hoist, move the car back from the hoist, don't move the hoist back from the car, if the engine starts to swing, its time you stick your head between your knees and kiss your arse goodbye. get the car all clear then lower the engine before you start trying to move it round. If you are using the shed roof and block and tackle, just keep a close eye on things, many sheds aren't designed for this and when the roof gets closer to the car, things get kinda scary.

I personally can't see all the fuss about taking the head etc off to reduce weight, and find that as one big unit with the gearbox etc and head and carbs its an easier and neater removal (the only time I have ever dropped a motor was when I seperated it from the gearbox, but its ok, it was only a landrover motor)

Have fun, and as long as you take it slowly and tag everything you remove you will be fine.

Cheers Chris

PS A rule to live by when working on engines, I was told it and I thought it only fit to pass it on to you.

When checking clearances, threads etc, "Never stick your finger in a hole you wouldn't stick your d*** into" Stupid and basic rule, but it makes you think twice before you check how well anything is lined up, and if you live by this you should a the end have ten fingers and a male appendage.

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by Z Kid

Just a couple of things to point out or add, If you are using an engine hoist, move the car back from the hoist, don't move the hoist back from the car, ...

Rented Engine hoist and a three car garage with 12 foot ceilings. Much nicer than when I did it in my parent's one car garage 20 years ago. Does sound easier to move the car instead of the hoist. I'll try that.

if the engine starts to swing, its time you stick your head between your knees and kiss your arse goodbye.

I'll remember that :hurt: .

I personally can't see all the fuss about taking the head etc off to reduce weight, ...

I'd just rather suspend 500 lb then 800 lb (or whatever it is). Less stress on a rented hoist/chain that SHOULD be in good shape, but you never know...

...as long as you take it slowly and tag everything you remove you will be fine.

Slow is the ticket. And I have several boxes of ziploc bags full of small parts, labeled and stored, along with several hundred digital pics of everything before during and after I disassembled each thing. If I can't figure out how to put something back together with all this, it will just have to stay apart!

"Never stick your finger in a hole you wouldn't stick your d*** into"

I'll keep that in mind too :classic: . Lets say that there's lots of places fingers can fit that other things can't....

[phi22b@ck]

Oh I did mean that the stud sheard off. The rear stud sheared off level with the surface of the head.

It popped when the oil pan was gently resting on the rad support -- it was a pretty stressful moment as we slapped some tow straps around just to get it to the ground. That is when I welded the chain to the piece of steel so I could hoist it into the other car..

Good Luck!!

[Bambikiller240]

The few times that I've pulled L24 engines out of chassis, I've used a new manifold stud on the head and the front lift hook, OR used a Grade 8 bolt in place of the old manifold stud and the front lift hook. I always quickly and carefully jack the engine up and out (moving the car when possible is better than moving the hoist) and then lower the engine as soon as possible. Minimum "AIR" time is the name of the game for me.

IMHO, If you use a Grade 5 bolt you are asking for trouble. I expect that the bolts mounting the front lift hook are Grade 5 or equivilent, but there are two of them to share the load. I'd NEVER trust lifting by an old manifold stud with an engine or car of mine. NEVER.

[mdbrandy]

Well, thanks for the opinions, gents. The engine is out. I used the upper right Bellhousing to block bolt hole with a new grade 8 bolt (that I had purchased to use on the engine stand anyway), and the front lifting ring. As I didn't fully trust that ring, I also wrapped a length of 1/2 inch nylon rope that I had laying around under the engine and through the crane hook as a kind of safety at the front of the engine. It's a strong rope - I don't know it's capacity, but it is hundreds of pounds. Pushed the car back out of the way, lowered the engine onto a pallet, lifted the engine back up to put on the stand, and all is well. Only problem I had was the back of the tranny catching on the rear mount crossmember for a minute.

Onward with the restoration! :classic: