F54/P79 with .080 removed from head w/approx 150 miles driven since put back in the road. Bottom end is probably stock, but untouched by myself(no new rings, bearings etc.)

 

I'm trying to determine if my car is running rich, or if I am experiencing ring or valve stem seal failure.

 

There exists an amount of oil consumption that to me, seems high, even for an engine with a fresh head and bottom end that's been sitting for a long time.

 

It will smoke if you rev it at idle. Not under load when driving it (I had someone follow me). It won't smoke at startup either hot or cold.

 

I am pretty well colorblind, it's hard to tell if it's blue or what. It's not black, it's not blue, and it's not white. I've seen extreme cases of rich conditions produce obvious black smoke, and as early as my N42 motor I just replaced, the obvious blue hue of smoke at startup due to failed valve stem seals. It's almost as if it's a mix of blue, blackish, and white. As messed up as that sounds.

 

The plugs are difficult for me to read as well. Again, I've seen oil fouled plugs with the old motor, but the ones in my new engine seem like their on the verge of both carbon fouling and oil fouling. To me at least. What do you guys think. This one picture represents the condition of all 6 plugs with roughly 150 miles of use.

 

Edit: my TVS has not been adjusted per the FSM since installation on the new engine.

Edit #2:  A quick 6 -8 flick of the wire brush over the spark plug removes almost all of the deposits, and I'm mostly seeing powdery residue, not so much oily residue.  I'm thinking I have one of those odd situations where a rich condition is thinning out oil, making it enter the combustion process, and give symptoms of both rich condition, and oil consumption.  Perhaps someone has seen this before, and can shed light on it. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 12, 20195 yr by Reptoid Overlords

I was exaggerating with "wobble".  It would have to be through the nose of the input shaft, which probably can't exert much force.  The pilot bushing surface, the leverage point, is pretty small.

Do any of you guys know the part number for the Nissan OEM rear main seal?

 

The dealership parts counter guy shows 2 part numbers with no drawings. He's probably just being lazy. I'd like to just walk in with the correct part number and say "here, order this".

 

I'm either too

incompetent to operate the search function or it doesn't work on my phone with Tapatalk.

 

Thanks.

 

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Many thanks!

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5 minutes ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

Many thanks!

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Side seals are at the bottom of this image.

The bottom receipt.

Edited November 15, 20195 yr by siteunseen

Amazon is showing the part number 1 12279-2B500 is for the RB motors. I'm guessing they are the same?

I'll order it through Amazon and get it cheaper and faster than through the dealer, and I don't have to sit in 45 minutes of traffic.

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I'm sure that's what I have on my car because I don't an extra on my Datsun parts rack.  It may be a good idea to check further.  Maybe @Diseazd would know fairly easy?

 

Looks right. The part number seems to be used on a number of motors. I cross referenced nissanpartsdeal.com and it shows a range of engines that use that seal. So I think I'm good to order it. I appreciate you looking into it for me.

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On 11/15/2019 at 2:38 PM, siteunseen said:

I'm sure that's what I have on my car because I don't an extra on my Datsun parts rack.  It may be a good idea to check further.  Maybe @Diseazd would know fairly easy?

 

Sorry Site.....I don’t know the part number....I depend on Motorsports or ZcarDepot to get it right.

Nissan seal is on the left. The Fel Pro is on the right(as you are viewing the picture). The Nissan one is slightly less deep than the Fel Pro one.

 

Got it installed and driven about 15 miles for a test run/ milkshake for the kid. No apparent leaks.

 

She's getting good at not spilling during high speed turns haha.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A quick update and thanks to all who chimed in on this, and it can be put to bed.  I've been driving the Z to work and around on the weekends alongside the Tesla's and Subaru's since last post.  I have around 1,000 miles since last time I topped up the oil after replacing the rear main(again) and have seen no drop on the dipstick.  I added some Lucas fuel octane booster to the tank(92 oct rating base) and have the base timing set to around 12 degrees.  All fuel related issues seem to have been corrected(need to modify my vacuum advance).  Now that I'm comfortable in that it's a daily drive worthy, rain capable Z with heat and defrost I'll prob keep it in the garage for most of the rest of the winter.  Rust only gets worse.