3 hours ago, jayhawk said:

 

Zup, we (Motorman7 with my '73) also got dinged a point for the bead blasted valve cover. 

However, in looking at your judging sheets, my calculator says you achieved 290 points, which is the level ("290 or above")  for the Gold Medallion status.

From the current ZCCA Judging Manual " All vehicles scoring a total overall score of two hundred and ninety (290) points or above in their respective class (except Daily Driver) are eligible to receive the Gold Medallion or Gold Cup achievement award of excellence for their efforts."
 

I know they did not announce that for you at ZCON, but have you received that since?  I hope so, you deserve it!

The judging sheets received by each entrant are typically from the first round of judging.  These results are used two ways: (1) they are used to determine all of the awards other than Gold Medallion or Gold Cup; (2) any car scoring 290 or more is then re-judged for Gold Medallion or Gold Cup.  The re-judging is substantially more intense and detailed, most cars will lose additional points and any car still managing to hold on to 290 or more will be awarded Gold.  To the best of my knowledge, the judging sheets from the second round are never released.

In 2015 at Memphis, I scored 298 in Street Modified first round, losing one point on the engine and one on the interior.  The second round almost killed me with a loss of an additional eight points, dropping me to 290.  The judging sheets I received covered only the first round, I was never told what the additional second round deductions were for.

I see this practice as intentional and probably well-meaning.  If an entrant is told about every deduction on the second round, then every entrant has a strong likelihood of being awarded Gold at the next convention (if they drop below 290 at the current event).

 

While this is evolving toward the zietgiest of trophy shows, I would digress to the original question; "why me?"

I would guess that the judges saw what was evident even in the low res foto, i.e. the surface texture (not the color). Remember, the covers are cast into a finished metal mold, so the surface of the cast piece should be as tight and smooth as the mold.

One could presumably re-create an out-of-the-mold surface after abrasion by sanding, burnishing, etc., but then there is the issue of color.

Of course, it is presumption on my part, but I should think the only way to avoid this "overprep" pitfall, would be to refrain from any abrasion treatment in the first place. I should think a more productive approach would be a chemical treatment that would homogenize the color without effecting the surface.

Just $.02 from the "I never show" gallery.

 

 

 

Well I bought the thing for $315. Could not resist and not sure if a good deal. Now, do I keep the stickers on when I install or take them off?

Do us all a big favour and loan it to Zup for 2020 ZCON!

3 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Do us all a big favour and loan it to Zup for 2020 ZCON!

I could probably do that. My car is getting paint, engine rebuild and will not need till next fall.

YOUSE GUYS ARE KILLIN ME WITH KINDNESS HERE!

Thanks for the thought Philip,and the possible offer, Mr. Frankenstein. (is that steen ? or stine ?---)

I doubt that a single point deduction of the valve cover finish will make or break my chances at Nashville. Each year it is usually my own fault due to some neglected bits of dirt or overlooked insect carcasses that cumulatively do the damage and throw the spanner in the works.

It's OK. I'll keep trying.

 

1 hour ago, Zup said:

YOUSE GUYS ARE KILLIN ME WITH KINDNESS HERE!

Thanks for the thought Philip,and the possible offer, Mr. Frankenstein. (is that steen ? or stine ?---)

I doubt that a single point deduction of the valve cover finish will make or break my chances at Nashville. Each year it is usually my own fault due to some neglected bits of dirt or overlooked insect carcasses that cumulatively do the damage and throw the spanner in the works.

It's OK. I'll keep trying.

 

Frankie for short! I figure my 260 is made up of parts from 240 and 280. Offer always stands. I would like to make it to Nashville Z since it is where I lived most of my life.

Jim

Edited October 24, 20195 yr by Frankenstein

Mine has a mind of it's own...

So interesting story to this supposedly NOS valve cover I bought. I had some lacquer thinner I was using to clean parts and I decided what the heck, it shouldn’t hurt aluminum to just clean it up. Well start putting a little on a rag and rub some, then my rag starts to turn silver. I’m thinking I either messed up, this thing has been painted, or maybe they put something on at the factory. I pulled the stickers off and underneath they have the same silver that comes off with a rub and some thinner. It looks like paint. Did I get scammed? Thoughts? Looked legitimate!

Your link doesn't go to a valve cover ebay page, just a "valve cover" search ebay page.  Not clear what you're talking about.

Edit - actually I see from my post that there is a "word skimmer" linking to ebay on the site.  So, even more "not clear".

Basically you're asking if any Nissan valve covers came painted from the factory..

Edited June 2, 20204 yr by Zed Head

The pics of the valve cover I bought are at the top of this thread.

9 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Your link doesn't go to a valve cover ebay page, just a "valve cover" search ebay page.  Not clear what you're talking about.

Edit - actually I see from my post that there is a "word skimmer" linking to ebay on the site.  So, even more "not clear".

Basically you're asking if any Nissan valve covers came painted from the factory..

That is correct question I am trying to figure out. This whole thread was about an NOS valve cover I purchased. Pics are above in the starting post. Just wondering if I got scammed or did they have a certain process of finishing the cover after it was cast.