Parts look beautiful!

Only comment... Many people don't recommend poly/poly for the T/C rods. I've heard (read on the internet) that a combo of poly and rubber is better and that's what I run on my car.

20 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Parts look beautiful!

Only comment... Many people don't recommend poly/poly for the T/C rods. I've heard (read on the internet) that a combo of poly and rubber is better and that's what I run on my car.

I totally agree that those parts look great- I'm starting to get some similar parts stacked up as I wait for my body also! 

I'm curious about the rubber/poly for the T/C rods- what is the theory behind that as opposed to all poly or rubber?  My car was almost 100% poly and I'm going back to rubber everywhere mainly because I couldn't stand the poly squeaks.  No clue what I'm going to do for the moustache bar- my bushings seem fine but the washers are shot.

The theory is that if you use poly on both the front and rear of the T/C rods, you run the risk of snapping the rods from the stress.

There are a number of threads here (and on other forums) on the topic, and I believe there are even pics of T/C rods that have snapped off.

1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

The theory is that if you use poly on both the front and rear of the T/C rods, you run the risk of snapping the rods from the stress.

There are a number of threads here (and on other forums) on the topic, and I believe there are even pics of T/C rods that have snapped off.

Interesting.  I wonder if the broken T/C rods are on more high performance or race cars.  

 

If you move the T/C rod through its normal motion while the suspension moves up and down you'll see that the rod pivots through the mounting hole where the bushings are.  The end of the rod needs room to move up and down as the front of the rod moves.  The PU bushings are solid and fill up the space that the rod end needs, putting a side load on the rod end.  It fatigues and breaks off eventually.  I think that it's also where the squeaking and groaning comes from.

Edited January 7, 20205 yr by Zed Head

I suspect it has more to due to how much range of motion the suspension sees. Quality of the roads, steep driveway transitions, spirited driving, etc.

Cleaning up some of the small items here while I wait for the body from the paint shop.  Did a clean-up on the horns.  I think the olive color is a bit too light, but it's the closest that I could find locally.

Back from a short vacation, so did a little more work on Orange here.  Cleaned and lubed the smog pump and painted the pulley and bracket.   Attached those to the block.  Spent a little time removing the smog rail from an E30 exhaust manifold which I will use in place of the big old '73 manifold.  This works better (visually) with the SUs that will be installed.  That way it will look more like a complete '72 motor (It is a '72 build date).  Also, I think the smaller manifold will not transmit as much heat to the carbs.  Will send it off to get ceramic coating this week.

I put on the intake and balance tube loosely.  Will secure once motor is put in actual car.

Gee, this almost looks artistic with the stains on my garage floor. 

Fuel and brake lines cleaned, sanded and prepped for plating.   New plater has larger tanks so the long lines are just loosely bent in half instead of thirds.  This works better as the bend in is now in the trans tunnel area.

2 hours ago, motorman7 said:

Gee, this almost looks artistic with the stains on my garage floor. 

Fuel and brake lines cleaned, sanded and prepped for plating.   New plater has larger tanks so the long lines are just loosely bent in half instead of thirds.  This works better as the bend in is now in the trans tunnel area.

What is the cleaning method for large parts like this? Sanded to what grit?

3 minutes ago, Patcon said:

What is the cleaning method for large parts like this? Sanded to what grit?

I used the wire wheel on the end fittings.  220 grit to clean and sand the tubing. There was some undercoating and overspray on the tubing also.  I used the wire wheel on those portions.

Updates from the Body/paint shop shop.