"The Orange"

[7tooZ]

Gorgeous 

Are keeping a log or hours invested?

[motorman7]

50 minutes ago, 7tooZ said:

Gorgeous 

Are keeping a log or hours invested?

Thanks! Yes, this one is for a customer so everything is documented; receipts filed, hours tracked, etc.

Edited September 15, 2020 by motorman7

[Racer X]

On 8/3/2020 at 9:59 AM, motorman7 said:

She's Orange!  Nice to have the paint done.  Will dry and then get color sand.  This might be at my place in a couple weeks.  I am so ready.

Looks fantastic.

What paint was used? Acrylic enamel, like original? More modern base coat clear coat?

[motorman7]

 

10 hours ago, Racer X said:

Looks fantastic.

What paint was used? Acrylic enamel, like original? More modern base coat clear coat?

Paint is modern base and clear coat from PPG, 918 Orange

[motorman7]

More progress.  Got the drivetrain completely installed along with the E-brake and rear hatch.  Also installed the manifolds and carbs along with radiator and fan.

[240ZBUILTBYME]

Well this thread is amazing...

but also makes you realize just how much work and attention to detail is involved and most importantly how far you have to go on your own project! 

Really great work motorman. 

What’s your rules for silver vs yellow plating? Looks like everything suspension/steering/drivetrain and engine bay gets yellow and silver for everything else?

also how did you finish your halfshafts? Is it clear over aluminum paint? Looks quite striking, only ever seen black used. 

Do you just wire wheel and clear coat the gearbox case? 

Ryan

 

[motorman7]

4 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

 

What’s your rules for silver vs yellow plating? Looks like everything suspension/steering/drivetrain and engine bay gets yellow and silver for everything else?

also how did you finish your halfshafts? Is it clear over aluminum paint? Looks quite striking, only ever seen black used. 

Do you just wire wheel and clear coat the gearbox case? 

Ryan

 

For plating, I try to keep everything as factory stock original as possible in regard to yellow and silver.  I am sure on some items I may be incorrect, but it is my best attempt to get things right.  I know the earlier Z's had a little more silver items than the later Z's, so not really sure at what times the changes took place.  I did notice at the 2019 ZCON, most judges had no idea what was correct so I wasn't marked off for any plating discrepancies.  However, Jim Fredericks was there and was able to teach me a bit on some items that were not correct, so I try and learn from those instances.

For the half shafts, since most of the original black paint is usually gone, I typically just strip and clear coat.  Sometimes the metal is stained so I paint with flat aluminum and clear or plain aluminum and matte clear.  I know they are supposed to be black, but it gets kind of boring under there with everything being black.  So, I do take a bit of artistic license on the half shaft, as well as the back of the differential which should also be black.

For the trans case, I hit it with the fiber wheel and clear coat.  Wire wheels usually scratch too much.  Again, if the housing is pretty stained I will paint with flat aluminum then clear coat.  

Also, for the valve cover, I now just clean with steel wool and phosphoric acid (wear gloves and goggles).  After the cleaning, I use a little Maguires aluminum polish just as a preservative.  I prefer the light bead blast look, but got dinged for that at ZCON.  Ideally, I should probably look into vapor blasting for the cover.

 

Rich

 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

4 hours ago, motorman7 said:

For plating, I try to keep everything as factory stock original as possible in regard to yellow and silver.  I am sure on some items I may be incorrect, but it is my best attempt to get things right.  I know the earlier Z's had a little more silver items than the later Z's, so not really sure at what times the changes took place.  I did notice at the 2019 ZCON, most judges had no idea what was correct so I wasn't marked off for any plating discrepancies.  However, Jim Fredericks was there and was able to teach me a bit on some items that were not correct, so I try and learn from those instances.

For the half shafts, since most of the original black paint is usually gone, I typically just strip and clear coat.  Sometimes the metal is stained so I paint with flat aluminum and clear or plain aluminum and matte clear.  I know they are supposed to be black, but it gets kind of boring under there with everything being black.  So, I do take a bit of artistic license on the half shaft, as well as the back of the differential which should also be black.

For the trans case, I hit it with the fiber wheel and clear coat.  Wire wheels usually scratch too much.  Again, if the housing is pretty stained I will paint with flat aluminum then clear coat.  

Also, for the valve cover, I now just clean with steel wool and phosphoric acid (wear gloves and goggles).  After the cleaning, I use a little Maguires aluminum polish just as a preservative.  I prefer the light bead blast look, but got dinged for that at ZCON.  Ideally, I should probably look into vapor blasting for the cover.

Rich

Awesome thanks mate.  Yeah really like the halfshafts finished like that, and the backplate of the diff.

Keep up the quality restoration inspo!

 Ryan 

[motorman7]

Got the rear hatch glass installed.  It was quite a challenge as it was a bit older gasket (customer provided) and somewhat stiff.  Had to  stretch it around the glass as the fit was tight. And, had to have my wife help me on the install, where  usually I can install the rear glass in about 10 minutes (Precision brand) all by myself.  On the flip side, the older gasket was a better fit and covers the corners better.  Also, it had some waxy substance on it to preserve it (I think) which made it a bit messy on the install.  I am thinking it was a factory gasket due to the nice fit for both the corners and the metal trim.

Also installed the front and rear brake flex lines and front bumper supports. The gloss black powder coat on the bumper supports looks beautiful....very shiny.

[inline6]

I enjoy seeing these progress updates.  I am still trying to finish up bodywork on my project.  I have a ways to go.  

Do you think it would be possible to have brake hoses (assembled rubber ones with fittings) run throught the plating/yellow chromating process?  I am not educated as to what can be run through the plating process that is not metal.  It seems, for example, that running the emissions pieces through is possible, or at least, I think people are doing that based on pics I see.  I forget what the one control valve is called, but I think it is the one that slows throttle closure - I can't believe people are able to source those new, and I don't think people are taking them apart to plate just the metal bits either.  

Other things like the throttle linkage bar with plastic sockets, the hatch receivers (with plastic wedges captured), and door latch pieces (with captured plastic parts) can be re-plated obviously.  

[Clay C]

I don’t know much about the process either but the plater I used is probably the one you would use based on proximity. Anything that was plastic was left with a bad chalky look. The ends on the dog bones, the plastic bits on the door striker parts. Not really a good look. You can polish them a little and make them look ok. 
 

I know you are talking about rubber hoses, I can’t think of anything rubber I sent to them. You will more then likely have to have a couple of batches of things anyway. Run a bad or old one through with some of your other stuff and test it. 
 

i didn’t have them clear zinc anything. Maybe that problem is only with the yellow chromate. 

Edited September 25, 2020 by Clay C

[grannyknot]

12 hours ago, inline6 said:

Do you think it would be possible to have brake hoses (assembled rubber ones with fittings) run throught the plating/yellow chromating process? 

I've had a lot of plating done but all by one guy up here in Toronto,  rubber doesn't seem to be affected at all from the process but I'm not sure I would subject brake hoses to it just out of abundance of caution. The damage to the plastic is based on the amount of time it stays immersed in the acid bath, if the metal is badly rusted it needs to stay in the bath longer and the plastic pays for it.  The best way I have found is to remove as much of the rust as possible from anything with plastic on it so the piece needs the shortest amount of time in the bath.