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"The Orange"


motorman7

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On 11/5/2020 at 3:25 AM, Clay C said:

Does anyone have a link or brand of speaker that fits the bracket in the back? I assume they are plentiful but I know next to nothing about car audio!

I will try to get back to you on this later today.  I typically use a small Kenwood speaker.  They come 2 in a pack.  The important item is that it is a 4 ohm speaker, similar to the original.

 

I made some new battery cables with the right angle connectors.  Also added the voltage regulator and fusible link.  Put some gas in the tank and once the fuel got to the engine, she started right up, although very rough.  Did a little trouble shooting and found that the rear carb float bowl was dry as a bone, so it was pretty much just running on 3 cylinders.  Turns out the float bowl valve was stuck closed, so I just disassembled and cleaned it and put it all back together.  Car is now running much smoother.

 

So I know you're all asking yourselves, "Where did Rich get the new rubber for that front bumper.  It is simply not available for the 1973 model bumpers".  

Since you were all wondering about that, what I did was order the rear 1973 rear bumper rubber since it is fairly long.  I drilled 3 new holes in the front bumper for the rubber attachment studs and it installed pretty cleanly.  The original hole nearest the bumperette actually lined up which saved me one hole.  Anyway, pretty happy with how that turned out.

Now if I can just get some of the final vinyl pieces.  I need the rear diamond vinyl behind the seats and the floor vinyl/rubber that goes over the drivers and passenger threshold.

 

 

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I’m digging that engine bay. Share with us your source of battery terminal/cables please. Quite tough to find that style already made up, or are you putting your own cables into empty lead terminals.

Closest I found were these. I suppose one could solder cable ends into the hole where that boilt passes through? 

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Edited by zKars
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55 minutes ago, zKars said:

I’m digging that engine bay. Share with us your source of battery terminal/cables please. Quite tough to find that style already made up, or are you putting your own cables into empty lead terminals.

Closest I found were these. I suppose one could solder cable ends into the hole where that boilt passes through? 

BCA18A0F-1613-40BF-9A64-F9352A462D6B.png

Yes, those are the ones I use.  I get a 30" black cable for '+' and 25" black cable for '-' and cut off the straight terminals.  Got the cables from Pep Boys.  I use 10Ga wire for the negative to firewall.  Strip about 1.25" of insulation off the cable and insert into the right angle terminal end.  I then screw a 1" long #10 flat head woodscrew to secure the wire in the new terminal.  Then melt solder into end to seal and finish. 

 

I have found some rubber terminal covers but they are a bit too large.

I think vintagerubber used to sell a set, but they were crazy expensive, over $200 I think.  This costs me under $50.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got both fenders in along with the lights. Will get hood and front valence next Saturday. 

 

Also got a stock radio from the owner and repaired the harness.  Fortunately  I had another radio to check for length verification and amazingly had a spare radio connector end in my box of Z stuff.

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Got the hood and valence installed.  Also installed the radio and heater panel along with all of their respective connections.  Now just a few interior items to finish up and she's just about done.  The lead time on interior parts has been pretty bad due to Covid.  

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