On 11/30/2019 at 4:35 PM, grannyknot said:

I only had my fingers crushed once blowing the pistons out, now use a piece of wood between them and wrap the whole thing in an old T shirt before giving it air, it keeps flying pistons and brake fluid spray to a minimum.

I haven't been hit by one, but did have one fly across the garage once.  That was enough to cause me to put a lot of caution into this process.

 

Did a bit more work on the brakes, adding rear brackets now that they have been plated.  Had to clean out the holes for the brackets with a tap since they had the powder coat on the threads.

  Also spent a little time organizing the zinc parts so that things will be easier to find.  Finished one disc caliper and half way through the second.

Latest pics from the body shop.  A lot of rust eaten areas here, though most are the usual culprits.  These are not for the faint of heart.  Glad the experts are working on this.

It looks like the floor pans were replaced before.  The (non-standard) installation method appears to be rivets and epoxy along with some bondo.  Also looks like previous rust areas were not treated and just painted over, causing all the bubbles and holes in the paint.  Miguel will be ordering replacement panels and sheet metal to weld in after cutting out the rusted panels.

 

 

That looks a lot like the rust on my 240!  Not too bad.

The yellow zinc items look great.  In general do you plate the various emissions valves?  I know both the "AB" valve and "Control" valve have aluminum parts and I thought the acid bath would destroy the aluminum.

Yes, I am planning on sending the larger parts (fuel and brake lines, etc) and parts that have cavities, like the emission valves, to a  local plater.  In the past, the 'cavity items' have leaked during shipping and stained the other parts.  Pick-up at the local plater for these large and unique items works better.

Got the block back from the machine shop.  Head is waiting for hardened valve seats to come in.  Got the block painted and freeze plugs installed.  also finished rebuilding the second front caliper

core

Rich,

Do you just clear coat the serial number pads?

4 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Rich,

Do you just clear coat the serial number pads?

Yes, keeps it from rusting....and looks cool in the bare metal color.  

Installed the crank and pistons last night.  All new standard size bearings and .030" over pistons.  Head should be ready early next week.

That engine blue looks great.  Is that the spray can from Banzai?  On a related note what color are you using for the tail light panel- I know there are a lot of opinions on this!

On ‎12‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 11:44 PM, motorman7 said:

Looks pretty! I would clean the paint off the oil washed surfaces though. Especially the pressure relief valve. I worry that the paint will come off that ball once bathed in hot oil. Probably not enough paint to really matter, but just for the insurance, a little carb cleaner on a rag should wipe it off. That's just me.  :)

3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Looks pretty! I would clean the paint off the oil washed surfaces though. Especially the pressure relief valve. I worry that the paint will come off that ball once bathed in hot oil. Probably not enough paint to really matter, but just for the insurance, a little carb cleaner on a rag should wipe it off. That's just me.  ?

Thanks for the quality check!  Cleaned that up this AM.

Interesting, as an engineer, I had to go back and determine why that area wasn't covered as I typically have the whole area taped off.  Turns out, I usually use the 2" wide masking tape when taping off these areas.  Turns out that my 2" wide tape roll was just about gone and getting a little old so it was difficult to work with.  So, I used the new 1" wide tape roll for the masking.  Obviously did not get good enough coverage.  Also, multiple layers of the 1" tape over cavities does not stick well.  So, bottom line is I need to go out and get a new roll of 2" tape.

 

16 hours ago, Zaspen said:

That engine blue looks great.  Is that the spray can from Banzai?  On a related note what color are you using for the tail light panel- I know there are a lot of opinions on this!

Got it from California-Datsun.com on e-bay for $35.99

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-True-Blue-Green-Original-Color-OEM-Engine-Block-Paint-Can/153656468818?hash=item23c6a3a552:g:HWAAAMXQDjhQ5cP1

Also, for the taillight panel I use the Ford shadow gray with and Matte clear overcoat.  That usually works pretty well.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-BFM0360-Dark-Shadow-Gray-Ford-Exact-match-Automotive-Paint/48341749