Trouble-shoot directions for ignition/no start

[Jeff Berk]

this morning I tried to start my 260z and the engine turned as normal, then I remembered to pull the choke, and nothing. I tried again and it once again turned not start. I released the key and tried again (it was a cold morning) and nothing. Again, nothing, and again.

Where do I start? The battery seems fine but I put it on charge anyways. I didn't even hear a solenoid click (although it might of been muffled by my panic).

Should I start at the ignition, solenoid, or is there something obvious (or insidious) I need to look at? BTW, it likely doesn't matter but I have a Mallory Unilite ignition. 

[Mark Maras]

 Start by determining if the problem is lack of fuel or spark. Pull a plug, reattach the wire, ground the plug and have a friend try to start it while you're watching the plug.There's several ways to check for fuel. I like to pull the dome and piston from the top of the carb. then pull the choke. The nozzles will drop and you should be able to see fuel above the nozzle. You could also pull a fuel line forward of the pump and crank the engine over or pull the float chamber lid.

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

it likely doesn't matter but I have a Mallory Unilite ignition. 

The Unilites have been known to fail.

When did it last start?  Dies it pop or try to start or is it just complete silence?  "no start" is very vague.

Try starting fluid.

[Jeff Berk]

Addressing the above questions... 

It has sat for 2 weeks outside while I worked on another car. It cranked lively like there was not problem other than forgetting to pull the choke the first time. Then utter silence when I turned the key. I hooked up a charger and it indicated that the battery was at 75% and I hit the "start" button on the charger to give the car more power for an attempted start. 

I turned the key and utter silence once again. The engine did not turn, the starter did not spin, and I don't think I even hear the solenoid click.

The Unilite is a common problem but wouldn't of stopped the starter from spinning the engine, nor would a spark or fuel issue.

Edited October 21, 2019 by Jeff Berk

[Zed Head]

You didn't elucidate the fact that the engine stopped turning in your first post.  Sounds like a dirty battery terminal.  Very common.

Or a bad ignition switch.  Not uncommon.

[Jeff Berk]

OK ZH, that's where I'll start!

thanks

Jeff

[Jeff Berk]

Here's where I'm at now.

1) battery is charged and the battery post clamps are tight.

2) the ignition switch tested out fine except there was no continuity between the two red wires with the key inserted or in any position.

Could this mean the ignition switch is shot? Is it repairable? 

[Zed Head]

I repaired one once.  It depends on what's wrong with it.

The two red wires are for the steering lock switch.  You want to test between the pins on the end of the switch, using the chart with B, S, IG, and A.  The circles with a line between them indicate when there should be continuity.

You can also plug it back in turn the electrical part alone.  I had a switch that would not turn the electrical part far enough.  I had to twist the rod between the mechanical and electrical parts.  Take the two screws out and use a screwdriver to turn the electrical switch.  You'll see the little flat rod that turns it when you take it apart.  You might have to destroy one of the screws, Nissan made them one time use as an anti-theft measure.

[Jeff Berk]

The pins tested out correct as per the diagram. I jumpered the solenoid to the battery and the starter spun like a champ. 

I connected a multimeter to the wire that connects to the small connector on the solenoid and it showed no power when I turned the key.

I'm assuming that the two red leads don't need to be connected for the starter to start because I didn't bother since they only works the steering lock.

My next step, I assume, is to see if power is going to the ignition switch. I have a wiring diagram so I'll start tracing.

[kenward1000]

If the "fusible link" that connects battery power to the wiring harness has failed or if the connectors between the "fusible link" and the wiring harness have opened/pulled apart, that will produce what seems like a total electrical system failure (no cranking, no lights, no horn, no nothing) even though the battery is fine.  Just found/fixed this problem on my 71 240z with the kind people of the Help Me! forum.

[Jeff Berk]

Kenward1000... Thanks for the suggestion. I'm currently working on a G35 in my garage so when done, I'll push the Z inside and take a close look. I looked at the fusible link; however, not at the wiring harness...Jeff

[Jeff Berk]

I'm not sure if this is the ultimate source of the problem but following Kenward1000's suggestion, I think the problem was the connections on the fusible links. I cleaned them up and the Z's running again. 

Unfortunately, one of the solder joints on the gray link is loose. The wire is too dirty to re-solder so I was going to cut the blade connection off and install a new one. It looks like 0.33 inch (8.6 mm) wide which I haven't been able to locate.

Any idea where I can find a suitable connector?

Happy Turkey Day Everyone

Jeff

Edited November 26, 2019 by Jeff Berk