In Search of Early 240 SU Full Linkage Diagram

[DannDZ]

I've rebuilt my carbs and am now reinstalling the pair on my '71. I should have taken better pictures! I am having difficulty properly installing all the the linkages.

This thread has some good diagrams and even better pictures. But they are for the 510.

 I have the Factory Service Manual, I've search a number of forums but have not seen a picture or exploded diagram that will allow me to ensure that it is reassembled correctly. 

Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks

[CanTechZ]

Not pictures but here is a video of my engine bay, 7/70 car, that I shot as a reference before dismantling for a restoration, it's long but I hope it helps.

Cheers Mike

 

 

[DannDZ]

1 hour ago, CanTechZ said:

Not pictures but here is a video of my engine bay, 7/70 car

This looks helpful. I should be able to step through it and get some good ideas. My challenge is connecting the parts that stayed on the car with those that were removed with the carbs, that is the linkage between the two carbs. 

BTW, you have a great looking Z. The video will be a good reference for detailing my own engine compartment.

[CanTechZ]

Thanks and your welcome. Let me know if you need any specific pictures, I haven't pulled the engine yet. 

[DannDZ]

1 minute ago, CanTechZ said:

Thanks and your welcome. Let me know if you need any specific pictures, I haven't pulled the engine yet. 

A few pictures of the area between the carbs would be very helpful. In particular how the pieces that connect from the throttle mechanism that remains on the car and the linkage between the carbs is what I am looking for. 

[siteunseen]

When I rebuilt my motor I thought I had the linkage right in between my carbs. Boy was I off! I had those flat stops next to the carbs out of order and on the first crank of a anxiety filled rebuild it shot up to about 3,000 rpms with the pedal rod off. Just about scared me to death.

[CanTechZ]

53 minutes ago, DannDZ said:

A few pictures of the area between the carbs would be very helpful. In particular how the pieces that connect from the throttle mechanism that remains on the car and the linkage between the carbs is what I am looking for. 

No problem, will do when I get home tonight. 

[DannDZ]

@CanTechZ I thought I'd start by showing you the things that I don't believe are right. You might be able to just tell me what I did wrong or you may have to post some pictures of your own. Thanks again.

[CanTechZ]

Good images. I will pull off my air cleaner housing and get you some good pictures for comparison. 

[DannDZ]

@CanTechZ @siteunseen

I just uploaded a 1:17 video of the areas of concern. Don't know if will bring more suggestions to mind, but it will probably help. Please forgive the sound, just off of my phone and I am squeaking against a fender protector! 

 

[240260280]

1. Fast idle screw is fine. You only need it to hold the rpms ~ 2000 to 3000 when tuning.  It saves you from getting a friend to  sit with foot on pedal.

2. Balance screw should be adjusted when the above #1 is 2000 to 3000 and the engine is hot.  Look up tuning procedure (The only time when you use this screw)

3. Opener adjuster should have ~1mm gap when car is tuned and hot. Leave it where it is for now.

 

More helpful info.

 

1.  Plug the PCV input or connect it to the crank case vent pipe. Leaving it open will cause a very fast idle.
    
2.  Make sure the throttle plates are resting on the throttle screw stops at idle. The push rod between the carbs should exert NO force on the throttle plates at idle.  You leave a little slop in the linkage by changing the length of the adjustable long push rod that runs along the firewall near the wiper water hose.

 

Edited October 22, 2019 by 240260280

[siteunseen]

All I can add is a picture of my early '72's set. Hope it helps in some way or another. If your using a phone you can "blow it up" pretty easy. 

If you need a specific area let me know and I'll get it asap.