inline6 Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share #277 Posted November 1, 2021 (edited) Picking up where I left off, I primed inside the rear hatch area. In the spare tire well, I only sprayed to cover spots where bare metal was exposed during sanding. Since the spare tire well and tool door areas will be more visible when all is said and done, I have spent and will spend more time in these areas to make them look factory fresh looking when the car emerges from the paint booth. While spraying epoxy primer, I sprayed a few other items including a glass bead blasted tool compartment door (I got the car with one blue and one silver one), the two sand blasted hood hinges, and the insides of the front fenders. For the fenders, I put seam sealer in some important areas before priming. Edited November 1, 2021 by inline6 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted November 7, 2021 Author Share #278 Posted November 7, 2021 (edited) I've been thinking about how best to address one of the most common rust out areas on our cars, the bottom corner of the front fender. There is a reinforcement panel which is crimped into the back edge of the fender, and where it twists at the bottom of the fender, it creates a trap for dirt and debris which over time, collects in the bottom rear corner. The debris which gets trapped here allows no air circulation so it holds moisture for extended periods of time, over and over again. Eventually, bare metal gets exposed and rust starts. Initially, I thought I would address this problem area by cutting some oval vents to allow additional drainage from this corner, and additional air circulation for drying. However, I think that would only be a slight improvement. Instead, I now have in mind fabricating a small metal panel which will seal off this area completely, and therefore, not allowing any dirt or debris or moisture to collect in the corner at all. Here is a cardboard mock up: I will extend the actual metal piece I fabricate a little further down than this cardboard template, so that the gap is closed. I may pop rivet this piece on using the little tabs. Once secured, I will use seam sealer to seal all the gaps. Of course, I now need to do something to seal up the oval holes that I cut into the reinforcement panel, or water and debris will enter there and I will still have the same problem for the bottom inch or so of the fender corner. Edited November 7, 2021 by inline6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted November 7, 2021 Share #279 Posted November 7, 2021 Interesting idea, I would tack weld the entire piece in place in addition to the seam sealer, aluminum or even SS rivets will corrode at some point. The oval breather holes I would leave open, they are very close to the body in that area. Maybe some oil treatment or cavity wax after the final paint job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted November 8, 2021 Author Share #280 Posted November 8, 2021 (edited) I was able to fabricate these for both fenders today. This metal piece is easy to fabricate as it only has one bend. I decided to tack weld it to the support instead of using pop rivets - thanks grannyknot for the suggestion. I did not tack it anywhere else though, as the body work is nearly finalized and I am not interested in deforming the outside surface of the fender. Hopefully, the addition of this piece does not cause a change in the shape of the panel when it is bolted in place. It might. And more time on bodywork will be the result if it did. After tacking, I used a hand-held belt sander to clean up the edge and then applied seam sealer. Now, any water coming inside the fender will run down the inside and be directed away from this corner by the shelf of this panel. Edited November 8, 2021 by inline6 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post inline6 Posted November 21, 2021 Author Popular Post Share #281 Posted November 21, 2021 (edited) Today, I accomplished another special modification I have had in mind for a long time. With my first Z, I discovered that the rear hatch outer panel is not well supported originally from the factory in the 240z. Pushing on the lock button to open the hatch can (if a little too hard) can cause the outer panel to "oil can" inwards. I have wanted to reinforce the hatch on my first Z for many years, however I was able to take care of it on the Z I am restoring for now, and will do the same on my first Z someday. Making a cardboard template: Transferred the template to sheet metal: I didn't show all here: I welded the box on the one corner, and then used panel adhesive to affix it into place. So, the outer panel will be well supported and have a much nicer feel when unlatching the hatch in real world use. Edited November 21, 2021 by inline6 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted November 21, 2021 Share #282 Posted November 21, 2021 The later year Z's came with a support brace back there in the hatch. I don't know what year they started though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted November 21, 2021 Author Share #283 Posted November 21, 2021 (edited) Pictures after using the panel bond. I sprayed the non-bonded surfaces with zinc primer before I bonded the bracket to the outer and inner hatch panels. In other news, I finally boxed up the hardware to send it off to be plated. I called http://www.texasprecision.net/ a few days ago and Steve said they are "not really taking on that kind of work anymore". I told him I was referred by a couple of other 240z people who recommended them highly, and that I would be happy to wait an extended period of time, if necessary. He asked about the condition of my parts. So, I told him that I had done extensive prep and described my process a bit. I offered to send a few pics, which I have done. But, I haven't heard anything back yet. Fingers crossed. Edited November 21, 2021 by inline6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted November 21, 2021 Share #284 Posted November 21, 2021 That's too bad, but not surprising. It is a big risk for a plater to take on this hobby type plating. If the metal isn't clean you could contaminate his tanks. Which would be very expensive to correct and if the plating doesn't look good, then the customer is unhappy on a really low profit job. I suspect we will continue to have fewer options for platers. You might want to post this info in the "platers" thread so its all in one place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfa.series1 Posted November 21, 2021 Share #285 Posted November 21, 2021 That's interesting news about TPP. I picked up an order from them about 3 weeks ago and there was no mention of no longer supporting my hobby level work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted November 21, 2021 Share #286 Posted November 21, 2021 1 hour ago, jfa.series1 said: That's interesting news about TPP. I picked up an order from them about 3 weeks ago and there was no mention of no longer supporting my hobby level work. They may make an exception for you Jim. Just because you're you 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inline6 Posted November 21, 2021 Author Share #287 Posted November 21, 2021 1 hour ago, jfa.series1 said: That's interesting news about TPP. I picked up an order from them about 3 weeks ago and there was no mention of no longer supporting my hobby level work. He asked if I had them do work for me before, so, I think they are continuing for a few current customers. Also said something about prioritizing local business/clients. Anyway, if I have to go elsewhere, I'll be more nervous about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfa.series1 Posted November 21, 2021 Share #288 Posted November 21, 2021 48 minutes ago, Patcon said: They may make an exception for you Jim. Just because you're you 😉 Well... I have referred a lot of local work to them - pretty much every resto in this area. 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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