Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883

[dutchzcarguy]

7 hours ago, inline6 said:

Swapping out the messed up screw for a nice one

Yes it makes a big difference!  Are they all JIS now?  (I wonder why they don't have a dimple implying they are JIS screwhheads?)

Hihi.. you had a screwed up screwhead inthere!   😁    All is still perfect work.. go on! 😉

 

@Mike Isn't there a better Emoji set for this forum?  I see much better ones on let's say whatt's app?  The ones on now are so damn small and not very clear.. (Just a question, Mike..)

[inline6]

Thanks for the tips - keep them coming please!

Yesterday evening, I ran into quite the puzzle of an issue.  Tonight, I remained stumped for quite a while but I think I figured out what the problem is.  So... I installed the driver side window glass last night.  Like @jfa.series1, I could not put the window in without taking the frame out.  No big deal, as I just put that in, so easy to take out.  I put the window in and then the front guide, then the regulator, then the rear guide.  Immediately, I ran into problems with getting the window to move up and down without excessive force.  Things were not happy.  

I fiddled with adjusting the front and rear guides for quite a while.  Nothing was helping.  And with the window at full up, one of the wheels for the regulator was coming out of the track.  I quit for the night, but kept thinking about the wheel coming out of the track at full up position, and the difficulty.  I also found this in the archive, and read it before I went to bed. 

 

Today, I went to work pulling everything back out of the door.  I had thoughts that perhaps the front guide was bent or worn, and perhaps some part or parts of my window are from a later car.  The article gave me that idea.  

I should have just checked the window first, because that is looking like my issue, but I messed around with comparing guides and regulators from both sides of the car for quite a while first.  

Here are the etchings on the glass for the left and right sides respectively: 

  

 

Given this thread from @kats  

I think my left side door window assembly is from 9/1975.  I am not quite sure how to read the one for the right side door window, but I believe it is indicating 4/1971 for my 6/71 car.  

Taking some measurements, there are clearly differences in the metal stampings that hold the glass and that the regulator works in conjunction with.  So, for now, I am calling the replacement door window my problem. 

So, do I need to source another window, or just another window support structure?  I will see what I can find. 

A few more pics of other progress: 

    

 

By the way, the factory door sill threshold screws are aluminum.  Middle pic shows the slight difference between the original sill plates and the reproduction ones.  The reproduction one is on the bottom below two new original ones.  The "DATSUN" is not as pronounced.  

    

 

 

 

[dutchzcarguy]

5 hours ago, inline6 said:

the factory door sill threshold screws are aluminum. 

Really? I Can't believe that.. test if a magnet picks them up..  I thought they are stainless.. (Also not magnetic most of the times..)

Alu screws would get destroyed by the first attempt to torc them.

[dutchzcarguy]

When i take a look at your pic from the screws.. i think they have some alu paint on the heads, You can imagine that if the screws thread was aluminum (aluminium 😐), it would be distroyed by the first attempt to fasten it.

About the glass,

If you take out the foam of the stainless framework, does it become easy to lift/lower the glass?  Maybe needs some sort of grease? i don't know.. (Also be aware that you have to adjust the ss. frame to the car door opening.) 

Edited January 4 by dutchzcarguy

[grannyknot]

The screws are aluminum, at least on Z's from 73 and earlier.

@inline6, if you would like to eliminate the rattling of the door handle linkage, a length of 1/8th" tubing, rubber or vinyl slit down one side and slipped over each rod works wonders.

[inline6]

18 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Really? I Can't believe that.. test if a magnet picks them up..  I thought they are stainless.. (Also not magnetic most of the times..)

I did use a magnet, and they didn't stick.  While using aluminum screws in that application does well to avoid galvanic corrosion on the sill itself, it doesn't help with the steel hole in the rocker panel it goes through!  

18 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

About the glass,

If you take out the foam of the stainless framework, does it become easy to lift/lower the glass?  Maybe needs some sort of grease? i don't know.. (Also be aware that you have to adjust the ss. frame to the car door opening.) 

I am going to do the right side side tonight and see how that one goes.  

14 hours ago, grannyknot said:

The screws are aluminum, at least on Z's from 73 and earlier.

@inline6, if you would like to eliminate the rattling of the door handle linkage, a length of 1/8th" tubing, rubber or vinyl slit down one side and slipped over each rod works wonders.

Thanks for the tip @grannyknot!  

Oh, and I received my Subaru parts.  They cancelled the shim off the order without telling me, and sent me the remaining parts which were on the order - the side carrier shims.  So, I have no solution for putting my differential together yet.

Everyone, I am looking for a nice driver side window with correct date on the etching.  I would like one that matches this pic, with a dot above the S in ASAHI and a dot above the M in TEMPERLITE.  Please let me know if you can help me.

Edited January 5 by inline6

[emccallum]

Not sure if this may help your window issue, but the door card holds the window out and the outer belt moulding/roller holds it in. If they all arent installed it may bind. When I did mine, I would use my fingers to act as the door card. Also, look at the window when it is almost all the way up, to adjust the frame so it seats evenly. 

Do you have the rubber stop at the bottom of the door installed?

Edited January 5 by emccallum

[inline6]

I do have the rubber stop installed at the bottom of both doors.  I believe I have identified the problems with the left side window - there are three.  Being from a 280z, the metal window frame/support is different.  At least one of the channels for the wheels of the regulator is different.  And, the nylon part on the front of the metal frame/support - the part that goes in the front guide is different.  That is making the front part of the window stick.  In addition to that, I believe I installed the lower weather strip in the back of the stainless frame incorrectly.  I do not think it is fully seated, and I think the weather strip cement I used is keeping it from seating fully now.  That is making the back of the window stick.  So, even with no regulator, the left side window is not going up and down without excessive effort. 

Tonight, I installed the right side window.  Like the driver side, I removed the old weather stripping, cleaned the old adhesive out of the stainless frame, and sanded the stainless frame with 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper.  I installed the window first, and then the front guide.  I installed the new weather strip in the stainless frame.  I put the top one in first, and then the one that goes in the bottom of the back of the frame.  This time, I made sure to push that one all the way into the channel before the weather strip cement dried.

I have had good success with locating the front guide by pushing the window all the way up to the full closed position, and then pulling the top of the front guide towards the window to "seat" it against the nylon slide part.  Then I snug the top bolt of the guide.  Then I lower the window to about half way down.  While holding the window in that position, I grab the bottom of the front guide and pull back to seat it against the nylon slide part.  Then I tighten the lower bolt of the front guide.  And finally, I tighten the top bolt of the front guide.  In theory, that puts the front guide in a position to keep the window as far back in the door a possible, both at the front and the bottom of the guide.

I am happy to report that I am able to slide the right side window up and down without issue.  It is a little heavy feeling, but I think that will go away with the installation of the window regulator and the channel guide on the door, as well as the upper rubber roller and inner panel and outer trim strip. 

Next, I have to "deep clean" the left regulator like I did to the right one tonight:

 

I found that each moving part of the regulator moved easier after cleaning thoroughly with WD40.  I removed all the old grease.  With reduced friction for each wheel, each gear, and each pivot point, it made a very big difference in the amount of overall friction during operation.  

When revisiting the left door window, I also need to fix the lower weather strip.  And, I need to source a 240z left window.  I found one in CO today, but the date code is 73.  I'd like to look a bit longer to see if I can find one that matches my passenger side.  

Edited January 5 by inline6

[emccallum]

My parts car is a 72 and both windows are intact. Not positive the glass is oem. Let me know what you need.

[dutchzcarguy]

2 hours ago, emccallum said:

Let me know what you need

🤣 See #630   the one with the pic of the glass he wants!

(SO.. i'm not the only one that doesn't read it all! 😉

[emccallum]

It was late! 

Looked this morning and my passenger window is oem and driver is aftermarket. 

Is the glass itself different or just the metal bottom part. Can't you just swap the bottom out ? I think I must be reading this wrong. 

[Patcon]

Does this match your glass?

Drivers side? It does have some light scratches. I don't know how well it will polish up or if it will come up to the standard of your build...