Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883

[emccallum]

Were you able to rekey the hatch lock? I have a bagful of them and I couldn't figure out how to get them open without damaging. I even took some to a locksmith and he didnt feel comfortable after messing with them. If there is a link or video out there that I missed, please let me know. Thanks.

[Captain Obvious]

6 hours ago, emccallum said:

Were you able to rekey the hatch lock? I have a bagful of them and I couldn't figure out how to get them open without damaging. I even took some to a locksmith and he didnt feel comfortable after messing with them. If there is a link or video out there that I missed, please let me know. Thanks.

The hatch lock is one of the easiest to deal with. Just don't break the little tabs off the facecap.

[inline6]

7 hours ago, emccallum said:

Were you able to rekey the hatch lock? I have a bagful of them and I couldn't figure out how to get them open without damaging. I even took some to a locksmith and he didn't feel comfortable after messing with them. If there is a link or video out there that I missed, please let me know. Thanks.

As @Captain Obvious said, the hatch lock is the easiest when compared to the door and ignition locks.  To get it apart, you just have to straighten the 3 little tabs on the backside of the stainless trim ring.  The trim ring (1) then releases from the lock case, and you can take out the tumbler assembly (2) with the sleeve (3) still on it.  To remove the sleeve, you just have to depress one of the "wafers".  Then (2) slides out of the sleeve (3).  You can then swap out the wafers to match your key.   

 

The ignition key and the door locks are more difficult to take apart and put back together.  The keying kits I bought off of eBay had replacement stainless steel covers for the door locks. 

Though this is picture after putting on the replacement cover, you can see here that the cover edge is simply bent around the circumference of the lock case.  

 

To get the old ones off, I used an air powered cut off tool with cut off wheel attachment, and simply ground the edge of the existing stainless steel cover (for one half or 180 degrees) of the periphery.  I use the flat surface of the disc and not the cutting edge.  It is easy.  When the stainless cover edge gets really thin, it is easy to pick at the backside fold, and break it away from the case.  Then the old cover is easily slid away from the case.  With the cover off, as with the hatch lock, you can remove the lock apparatus from the case and change out the wafers.  

The new covers in my kit.. have these extra tall tab areas (4):

 

They are not needed and would interfere.  So, I ground those down with the cut off wheel (again side of wheel - not cutting edge).  Then I put several layers of tape to protect the stainless cover surface:

  

 

Finally, I used a high quality C clamp - clamped into my bench vise, along with a large, thick washer (for backing against the new stainless cover, and a 1/2" drive socket to press the lock tightly against the washer... and used a hammer and flat punch to work the edge of the new stainless cover down around the case flange.

 

I am in the middle of this part of the work to finish up the door locks, and will put finished pics up soon.  Maybe with this info, you can convince your locksmith to give it a go?

[emccallum]

Wow, thanks for the detailed pictures and instructions! This was the part I couldnt figure out:

" To remove the sleeve, you just have to depress one of the "wafers".  Then (2) slides out of the sleeve (3). "  

I am going to give it another try, as mine is pretty beat up.

[Captain Obvious]

2 hours ago, emccallum said:

I am going to give it another try

Here's a couple other pics that might help get the barrel out of the housing. It's been a number of years since I was into the locks... You may need to have the key installed in the lock in order to get the barrel out.

You can see the retaining tumbler at the back of the assembly. Press that down and the barrel should slide out:

And once that's done, you're looking at this:

[Captain Obvious]

On 5/7/2024 at 2:41 AM, AZ-240z said:

 I also included a pic of the master cylinders.

My little eye spies the wrong clutch master cylinder.      It's a Nabco, but it's the new style. You guys are all gonna regret me seeing an early car with my own two eyes. Hahaha!!

You need one of these.  Maybe not quite as crusty, but this style:

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

My little eye spies the wrong clutch master cylinder.      It's a Nabco, but it's the new style. You guys are all gonna regret me seeing an early car with my own two eyes. Hahaha!!

You need one of these.  Maybe not quite as crusty, but this style:

Where's my build thread for Mr. Rusty???

[inline6]

I finally painted the radiator.  So, I was able to install it today.  Is this the correct orientation of the hardware - just the bolt on the front side, and the flat washer, locking washer and nut on the inside?  Oddly, the flange on the side brackets of the radiator basically touches the insides of the frame rails.

    

    

 

All three of the radiators I have in my possession have this flange on the inside surface of the radiator.  It appears to be for mounting a fan shroud, though I don't believe US cars had them as original equipment.

I think this is an original radiator cap:

 

I put some reproduction stickers on today as well:

  

  

 

 

[inline6]

I finally ordered some little nylon bushings for the door handle linkage.  I had to shorten the shaft portion and reduce the OD of the shaft portion also to get them to fit the opening in the door latch.  I used bit in a drill with some tape around the bit to keep the bushing from spinning, and a hand file to remove material from the OD of the shaft until the bushings fit.   After they fit, I used a piece of tape on the end of the linkage piece to keep it from falling into the door during installation of the linkage.  

Bushing as received next to a modified bushing:

    

These aren't really necessary, but there were some there originally, so I put some in.  With these linkages in place, I could finally open the doors using the new handles.  

One of the things I dislike about the 240Z is the sounds that it makes during opening and shutting of the doors.  I like a solid sound instead of tinny, or "loose" vibrations.  I am pleased with the results I achieved with the spray on sound deadening:
 

 

Other recent work has included replacement of some rubber parts on the fuel sender harness:

 

  

 

One issue I did not expect was that the new rubber covers for the terminals have a much larger opening for the wires.  I got these from Banzai.  I pumped them full of black silicone rubber to address this, but perhaps there are others available with a smaller hole in the end. 

  

I also installed the upper radiator hose and cleaned and reinstalled the original radiator overflow hose.  The upper radiator hose was sourced from jdm-car-parts.com.  I found that I had to trim some off of one end of the hose to get it to fit properly.

    

 

[inline6]

I found myself in the garage for a total of 12 hours this weekend.  I also tacked on a couple of hours during the week this past week.  I had to drop the gas tank down to install the gas sender harness.  Wish I had put that in before installing the tank.  That said, it wasn't too bad, as I found a way to lower it just enough to keep it from dropping loose of the fuel inlet hose.  So, much frustration that could have been in store for me was avoided.

From there, I put my attention on the spare tire cover.  I was able to purchase this nice reproduction on eBay a while back.  Today, I put Velcro on the body and the cover to match what was original. 

    

 

Can anyone tell me if these reproduction decals from Motorsport Auto are good reproductions of the original silver and black arrows?

 

I put many hours into sanding the tail light lenses today.  A few deep gouges required me to start with 400 grit.  From there, I went to 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500.  I finished with #83 Meguiar's polish and a foam buffing pad.

 

    

    

 

I bought reproduction chrome trim strips for the tail lights.  They are "good" quality, but not as good as the originals.  Their are three posts on the backside,  Two just pass through the lens.  You secure them to the lens with circular clips that press down onto the posts.  A rubber washer goes on before the circular clips.  This is to keep water from entering the tail light assembly at this location.  There is a third post that goes through the housing.  On the aftermarket trim, this post was not made long enough.  I have in mind a modification, as I would prefer the tail light lens be held to the housing with this post, in addition to adhesive that glues the lens to the housing.

I cleaned up the hatch carpet I got off of eBay a while back.  It was mostly protected from fading in its life so far.  At the front, there is a band which is several inches wide where it was not as protected.  The carpet is in quite good condition except for the fading.  I think it is much nicer than what I have seen available now for carpet kits for these cars.

On the spray can of this SEM color coat, it says for use on vinyl and carpets.  So, I tested it out on a corner that was quite faded.  It seemed to work pretty well.

  

 

I sparingly hit the most faded areas of the full carpet.  And then I placed it in the back of the car to check quality of fit. I may end up using this instead of new carpet in the hatch area.  I do need to buy carpet for the rest of the car, however.  So, for now, I will hold off on spraying it more liberally with the SEM color coat.  I will have to order carpet material and decide what to do for sure then.

    

 

 

 

Edited June 10 by inline6

[inline6]

Today, the bumpers arrived back from Tri-City Plating. 

I spent some time putting the front one one together with some NOS factory rubber:

    

Mock up:

 

I am pleased with the results for the most part. 

I sent them one front and two rear bumpers, and one set of each, front and rear over riders.  One of the rear bumpers was NOS and one of them was original to this car.  The original one was damaged when the car was hit in the rear.  The center section had a wicked twist in it, along with many dents, some deep scratches, etc.  I spent a lot of hours working on it.  I found that my hydraulic press was handy for some of that work.  I got most of the twist out of it.  And I got it relatively close to the same shape as the new old stock one. 

From talking to a few shops, it became clear to me that they have some expertise with straightening bumpers.  So, I decided not to put more of my time into the center section, hoping that with the NOS center section also on hand, they could make the original one match its shape.  That... didn't go well.  I am not pleased with the final shape of it.  I am glad I bought the NOS one and had it re-chromed as well.  I am pleased with the work they did to that one.  They did good work on the front bumper and the front and rear over riders as well.  So, for this car, I have a complete set that are good quality.  

Inexplicably, on the NOS rear bumper ends, where I had asked them to fill in these half moon cutouts...

they cut about a 6 inch long section out of one of them and welded in a replacement section to address this issue. 

And for the other bumper end, it appears that they stitch welded material into the half moon cut out until they had filled it with... weld.   ???   I will share pictures of that nonsense when I put the rear bumper together and put it on the car.  

 

Other work I have done on the car this week included tear down and rebuild of the headlight/wiper steering column switch assembly and the turn signal stalk assembly.  The electrical contacts for the headlight do wear.  As I understand it, there is a high level of current going through the original circuit.  I think tends to make arcing a thing on these contacts.  For each, I removed the fulcrum portion, hit it with 600/1000/1500 sand paper grits and did the same with the "posts" they contact.

    

Above, just getting started - you can see the depth of the "divot". 

    

 

Plastic parts were cleaned with soap and water and then buffed to restore some luster.

 

I went through the turn signal lever assembly as well.  I took it all apart, and removed any dirt and old grease.  Then put it back together with new grease in appropriate areas, sanded down and repainted the turn signal stalk, etc.

I also took apart all the side marker assemblies this week.  I sanded and polished each plastic lens.  I cleaned each stainless frame, straightened the areas where the screws contact them, and sanded/polished them as necessary to restore luster.  For the front side marker light assemblies, for which, unlike the rear, the backsides are exposed to the elements, I also stole some rubber grommets from Datsun 510 rear side markers that I had on hand.  I used those, as the original rubber seals disintegrated on these front assemblies long ago.  Without these, water comes inside through the bulb socket backside.  I used black silicone to ensure sealing of the transplanted seals here.  And, I lightly glass beaded the backside of the front side market assemblies, primed and painted them silver to protect them from future corrosion.

My preferred method for removing old paint from side marker gaskets is using the glass bead cablnet.

  

Finished fronts:

  

 

 

 

[inline6]

It took a lot of time to get the rear bumper together and on the car.  On the backsides of the bumper ends and over riders, I used primer with zinc in it, and followed with a light layer of black.  The backsides of these pieces were glass bead blasted before I sent them off.  However, there is something about the plating process which causes rust/corrosion.  It was very light, and only in a couple of spots, but I don't want it to be a foothold for more.  So, hopefully the zinc primer and paint will keep further corrosion at bay.  OEM chrome bumper bolts from the Z doctor were shorter than the originals (third pic here).  That said, the originals are much longer than they need to be.  I polished the originals a bit and reused them.

    

Rubber strips for the over riders are aftermarket - some of the few parts on this car that are not genuine OEM parts.

    

     

     

 

 

Edited June 19 by inline6