23 hours ago, inline6 said:

It seems like the only thing it could effect would be fuel flow, and that with the level lower, it would "less".  Are there other effects you are can think of?

The belief is that the mixture will be affected because the lower the bowl level, the higher the fuel would need to be lifted (by the venturi vacuum) in order to be pulled up past the needle. Physics dictates that the theory has merit, but I'm not sure about the magnitude of the effect.

In other words... I agree that it would take more energy to lift the fuel higher, but I'm not sure I agree on whether that increased amount of energy is negligible or not.

I do know that I have run cars* until the bowls get sucked down so far that they are nearly dry. And the engine seems to run just fine right up until the very end when the engine stalls due to lack of fuel.

 

* and generators and lawn mowers, etc

So a quest for the highest acceptable fuel level in the chambers may not have any value at all!  Perhaps I can investigate that a bit with the wide band in coming months.

Are you setting the float valves with the lids upside down like the "Just SUs" dvd or right side up and float hanging?

4 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Are you setting the float valves with the lids upside down like the "Just SUs" dvd or right side up and float hanging?

With the "wet set" method, I was setting them in the installed state, adding gas through the inlet to the float chamber.  I was setting the height of the fuel (as seen by looking at the translucent nylon tub attached to the float chamber outlet) to 20 mm below the casting separation line of the chamber and the lid.

I switched to setting at 14 to 15 mm between the bottom surface of the float chamber lid to to the top of the metal portion of the float.  I did this by cutting and grinding 2 3d size trim nails - one to 14 mm in length and one to 15 mm in length.  Using needle nose pliers, I hold each and place them vertically aligned between the float and the roof of the chamber lid.  I hold the float pressed against the nail, pinching the nail (vertically aligned) against the roof... and I blow into the fuel inlet.  Using the 15 mm nail segment, air can flow from the inlet past the needle valve.  Using the 14 mm nail segment, it cannot.  

I used this method with the rear carb only.  I did this yesterday.  Today I started the car and the fuel did not gush out of the vent in the chamber lid.  I did not run it long or do a test drive.

FWIW, this second method is what I always used for my other Z when it had SU's on it.  I never had problems with either fuel overflowing or performance, for that matter.

Edited October 30, 2024Oct 30 by inline6

Anyone have any details about the hardware used here?  This is a 1971 240z.

Pretty sure that's where the black plastic J hook goes, it's for the seat belt to hang on.

Not sure anyone ever used it for that, usually they are broken.

Pretty sure its a phillips screw with a trim washer in that spot. J hook is below the panel and a coat hanger round metal piece is at the top.

 

This picture is from BAT auction

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Pretty sure that's where the black plastic J hook goes, it's for the seat belt to hang on.

Not sure anyone ever used it for that, usually they are broken.

The J hook on the early cars goes on the seat.  The J hook on my 1971 car goes at the bottom front corner of the quarter window trim panel.  
 

1 hour ago, emccallum said:

Pretty sure its a phillips screw with a trim washer in that spot. J hook is below the panel and a coat hanger round metal piece is at the top.

This picture is from BAT auction

Thanks for this pic!  You can see that part much more clearly.  

This is from my 1/71 series 1 car.  Phillips screw with clear plastic washer.  

Confirmed clear plastic washer and small screw. Round metal "coat hooks" up above were later replaced with a more hook shape in plastic. 

Seat belt hooks are here. Once they were moved from the seat back. 

Thanks to all who responded!

In other news, a friend from VA visited this past weekend, and we tried tackling one of the tough jobs: installing the new stainless trim in the windshield gasket.  I bought a tool from Lisle to assist and some Precision lube.  We gave it a go... and even with two "car guys" being extremely careful, we sliced the gasket in many places (and I sliced myself in three places) trying to install it.  I am concluding that it is impossible to install the stainless trim after installing the windshield in the car without cutting the gasket to shreds.  It may be possible with an aftermarket windshield gasket, but it is certainly not with an old NOS one.  

So, while he was here, we then cut up the NOS gaskets for the windshield and the hatch to get the glass out.  The urethane adhesive I used didn't do an especially good job of gluing the gaskets to the body - this I am thankful for.  It did, however, do an especially good job of sticking to the body.  So, it is a bitch to get off the car.  

One positive thing I guess: after install the windshield weeks ago, I noticed that in 3 of the 4 corners of the windshield, the two pieces of glass (front and back) started delaminating.  With the windshield out, I may be able to repair that.  Or, I may just try to source another windshield.  

Just to round this out, I recommend that you never install the glass without putting the stainless trim in the grooves of the gasket first.  Out of all the work I have done on the car, installing the stainless trim on already installed gaskets is easily the hardest and most frustrating thing I have attempted.  Removing the urethane adhesive from the body of the car is up there as well.  I started removing the adhesive the rear hatch panel, and than part of the windshield.  But I have a blister forming on my thumb, so I will take a break from that.

    

 
I have gone backwards more than forwards this time.

So sorry for that! I had real concerns about that after you installed it without the trim, but I was hoping you would be successful. The last few things I have attempted in the shop have been very frustrating. So I feel your pain. You are making great progress though and it's a beautiful car! Just a little more and you'll be ready for Zcon 2025