Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883

[CanTechZ]

23 hours ago, inline6 said:

Nice.  Someone should make the templates available on eBay.  Mine are kind of "deduced" too much from paint old paint lines - it would be better to have templates made directly from the original bitumen the factory used.

My plan is to trace the original tar mats on my car before I remove them and if I have time, create cad files from the tracings. If I am able to make the cad files I will upload them to our cad files section in downloads here.

Edited July 2, 2020 by CanTechZ

[inline6]

I find myself looking at certain body lines and wondering exactly how they should look.  For example, the "belt" line on the side of the car originates in close proximity to the front fender well.  But how close?  And how sharp should they be?  Consulting earlier pics of fenders in bare metal gives me some idea, but my car had light impact damage to both front fenders that had to be straightened, so, I am not certain. 

    

 

Currently:

    

 

 

This original paint car currently on BringaTrailer looks like a good reference car.  This pic is a nice one, as the lighting is contrasting the above and  below belt line nicely. 

 

Also, this area of the A-pillar needs to be done right.  Light sand blasting of the original revealed this on the passenger side - the sharp line down the outside of the pillar appears to soften just before the top edge of the passenger fender:

  

 

How it looks now - but I have seen pictures of other Z's that show this line stays sharper than this.  

 

Here are a couple that show this area "ok" (the same car on Bringatrailer.com):

Anyone out there have an original paint car and who would be willing to take some detailed pics for me?

 

Edited July 3, 2020 by inline6

[SteveJ]

I suggest asking Chet for some close-up looks at his cars. 

[Patcon]

I think you fender line looks good

[inline6]

11 hours ago, SteveJ said:

I suggest asking Chet for some close-up looks at his cars. 

Hmmm.  Good thought.  

9 hours ago, Patcon said:

I think you fender line looks good

It might be close.

I continued with the sound deadening mat today.  Unfortunately, one of my packets of OEM stuff had only one sheet inside instead of two like it was supposed to.  Too late to do anything about that, as I have had it for maybe a year now.  I will have to order another two pack and hope it is still available.  

Damplifier Second Skin being installed - seam sealer applied to crevices between individual pieces.  I did not use the heat gun for these pieces as they have a thick foil layer on top.  I used a roller with a hard rubber wheel to conform the sheets to the metal.

    

OEM bitumen material put on top.  You can see the difference as the logos are present on the foil, but obviously not on the OEM stuff.

    

I cut the bitumen about a 1/16" of an inch larger than the pattern which ensures that the piece underneath doesn't show.

    

The bitumen shapes nicely with the heat gun - looks better than the foil with the wrinkles.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 4, 2020 by inline6

[ETI4K]

I have a brand new factory fender and hood, still in the boxes (bought in 2003).  They're for a 280.

I'll get them out and shoot some detailed pics of the body lines, if that'd be helpful.

Edited July 4, 2020 by ETI4K
Edit: Added hood

[inline6]

I happened to come across this pic while researching (again) pics of 901 silver.  This picture illustrates what I am seeking to avoid the final look of the "belt" line of the car.  High resolution pic available:

When you examine the body line closely, you can see that it varies both in direction and in sharpness.  At its origination point at the fender, it is a bit soft (instead of sharp).  As you move your sight from there towards the back of the fender, the line sharpens and then softens at the rear fender edge.  Moving onto the door, the first couple inches is soft and actually moved down.  Then you can see the line move up and down  along the door.

That stuff is what I am looking to avoid.

[grannyknot]

5 hours ago, inline6 said:

That stuff is what I am looking to avoid.

A stiff long board should take care of those soft areas.

[inline6]

Anyone ever see this on the 240z gas tanks?  A second drain on the corner?  I didn't notice it until it came back from the shop that cleaned it out.  If not stock, looks like I have another welding project.  

Edited July 21, 2020 by inline6

[grannyknot]

I've seen a couple of tanks that had a leak and repairs in that spot, maybe a PO put a drain bolt there to release the water from pooling.

[siteunseen]

That would've been an issue for me. That weld looks terrible. Get them to buy you a new one that's been on here last month. I mean call somebody when changing/disregarding your instructions and a plan for restoration. Jeez, everyone ASSumes they doing what's best for you.

[Patcon]

If it doesn't leak, I would leave it and paint it black