Yeah, it sounds like you hit the limit of your press capacity. That's exactly how it feels when you hit the pressure limit.

Why don't you give SteveJ's 20T a try? Always fun to have someone watch over your shoulder you as you sweat nervously while you have something under 19.5T of pressure.   

You could try pushing/burning the rubber out and hacksaw the sleeve, then heat and press out the sleeve. That will usually get them moving. Time consuming and you dont want to cut into the control arm. I have resorted to that a time or two. 

On 3/21/2023 at 10:06 AM, SteveJ said:

Heck, you could drive up to my neck of the woods and use my 20T arbor press.

Where is your neck of the woods out of curiosity?  I use my press quite a bit, so getting a 20T to replace my 12T seems like a good idea at this point.

Edited March 30, 20232 yr by inline6

I'm up in the northeast corner of Forsyth County near Lake Lanier.

I have made some more progress with bead blasting (after coal slag blasting), and priming and then painting of black parts.  I am really pleased with how these are turning out.  

First pic: Gold in a sea of silver - that is the T3 transmission crossmember for installing the 240SX transmission.  Second pic shows brake hose bracket repaired on one of the front struts.  Third pic - the rotisserie makes for a nice place to hang parts for painting.

    

Front strut:

    

T3 crossmember, gas pedal, rear mustache mount washers, dash vent bracket:

    

Other front strut:

      

Rear strut:

     

Other rear strut: 

    

 

I am about 2/3rds of the way through the black parts.  The nice thing about getting these done is that I can move on to some more of the assembly part of this process.

No word from the painter about work begun on the car.  Still waiting for paint sample cards.    

I removed and examined the u-joints from one axle.  Even though they felt very nice, when I took them apart, I found some damage.  First pic - outer joint, second pic, inner joint, and third pic - oem new in box joint:

    

The new, oem joint is pre-drilled for a grease fitting but comes with a screw/cap, and retaining clips with different colors painted on their sides.  They differ in thickness, with 3 or 4 groups of four clips.  I think 12 total are included.

    

I wonder if this casting mark (the I) is important (first pic)?  The "D" location corresponds to the drilled hole for the grease fitting.  I had two oem nos joints in my stash. Since both of the joints in the one axle I took apart had damage, I went ahead with ordering two more.  I found some nos oem of the same part number on eBay for about $50 each.

    

 

I need to review the what the factory shop manual says about replacing these u-joints to make sure I am not missing something important about the replacement process.
 

I have finished installing the new OEM U-joints in my axles.  Here is a separate thread about it if you want to check that out.  It took roughly 12 hours to do what I thought might take 2.  The snap rings are a pain in the butt, and the odd angle on the axle output flanges make u-joint removal and installation in a press way more difficult than it should be.  Plus, getting the tolerances right, and measuring to confirm they are, takes a lot of time.  Definitely best to get all that done before priming and painting them.  I am actually thinking of sending them off to have them balanced, so I will likely hold off on priming or painting them until they come back.

  

After he better part of a day and half of working on them, I decided to clean up the shop a bit.  This "shelf" for some of my 240Z parts is incredibly dusty after years of doing body work on the 240Z in my garage:

  

 

Someday, not too far off in the distance, this will become my primary project!

 

7 hours ago, inline6 said:

 It took roughly 12 hours to do what I thought might take 2. 

Yeah.. doing U-joints is not a fun job..  When you send them halfshafts for balancing do you also balance the propshaft as it is a even faster turning part? I would do that!

I took a break from working on parts restoration, and cleaned up one of the neglected corners of my garage on Sunday.  About two and half years of bodywork on the Z had coated everything in the corner including the 510 pictured above with a layer of primer dust - and a ridiculously expensive layer at that!  

The 240z headliner was one of the parts I was storing on the 510 and as I was blowing dust off of various things, I got distracted by the headliner.  I destroyed one of these years ago when I tried to remove the dead foam.  I think I was using a razor blade to carefully remove the foam and I cut through the vinyl.  That method was not a good one. 

This time, I decided to carefully peel it off by hand.  It wasn't too bad a job, taking somewhat less than one hour.  
  

My plan is to purchase new foam and glue it to the old vinyl.  I will probably use a roller to apply it.  Because I have seen vinyl come loose after a short period of time on too many Z restorations, I bought this adhesive for all the vinyl for my car:

https://www.yourautotrim.com/2gacadapwehh.html

I have some experience with using contact adhesive and have found it to be critical to wait a sufficient period of time.  Anyway, installing interior vinyl is a project for another day - the painter still hasn't started his part on my project yet to my knowledge.

 

 

 

Edited April 12, 20231 yr by inline6

For vinyl i used a spayable glue. Over here we have Bison spray glue.. you just spray it on and wait (half an hour?) to let it get very sticky and it works very well. And it does not fail after years...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One can is more than enough to do a roof and even about enough to do a whole car.  where do you need 2 gallons for??? (it says so in your link)

Edited April 13, 20231 yr by dutchzcarguy

The landau top contact adhesive will work well. That's what our local upholsterer uses. I used 3M headliner adhesive in an aerosol can. Good stuff. One can was all I needed for a Corolla headliner. Don't go cheap with the foam. It's the part that fails after years of heat and cold.

12 hours ago, inline6 said:

I took a break from working on parts restoration, and cleaned up one of the neglected corners of my garage on Sunday.  About two and half years of bodywork on the Z had coated everything in the corner including the 510 pictured above with a layer of primer dust - and a ridiculously expensive layer at that!  

The 240z headliner was one of the parts I was storing on the 510 and as I was blowing dust off of various things, I got distracted by the headliner.  I destroyed one of these years ago when I tried to remove the dead foam.  I think I was using a razor blade to carefully remove the foam and I cut through the vinyl.  That method was not a good one. 

This time, I decided to carefully peel it off by hand.  It wasn't too bad a job, taking somewhat less than one hour.  
  

My plan is to purchase new foam and glue it to the old vinyl.  I will probably use a roller to apply it.  Because I have seen vinyl come loose after a short period of time on too many Z restorations.  I bought this adhesive for all the vinyl for my car:

https://www.yourautotrim.com/2gacadapwehh.html

I have some experience with using contact adhesive and have found it to be critical to wait a sufficient period of time.  Anyway, installing interior vinyl is a project for another day - the painter still hasn't started his part on my project yet to my knowledge.

 

 

 

Very nice seeing this kind of effort to re-use original materials. I was lucky when I removed my headliner that the foam was in excellent shape and came out perfectly with no damage to the vinyl or foam. I used a 1.25" wide paint scraper with the corners rounded off. If it helps I could get you a measurement of the thickness.