Looks incredibly straight! Keep posting those motivating pictures

 

In looking at the new motor mounts I bought and comparing them to the originals, I see some differences.  While I would have liked to use brand new parts here, unfortunately, they are about 1/4" taller than the original mounts.  My originals appear to be in very good condition, so I will probably glass bead blast and paint them, and re-use them.  

    

 

New: 

 

Original: 

 

 

After 40-50 years of drying.. and fichting the weight..   they get smaller.. it is possible that it dried 2/16 or 1/8th of an inch..

 

Btw.. i can see that the old one is not in a good condition in your last foto.. rubber has let go of the steel.. top in pic.

 

I think you would be much better off using the new mounts, the age hardened 50 year old rubber compound isn't going to be doing much dampening of vibration and will tear away from the mounting plates if it hasn't already.

I did some searching for differences in the two OEM motor mounts: 

I found some discussions about aftermarket motor mounts and problems with them, but I couldn't find information from anyone who compared the two OEM variants. 

I have a hard time believing that the original rubber mounts have shrunk as much as the difference I measure here.  It is certainly easier for me to use the new ones, as I don't have to prep the old ones.  I do have one question though.  When you raise or lower the engine, that in turn will change the angle of the transmission output shaft.  How much will that matter?  In theory, it would only change the angle of the splined front section of the driveshaft.  I have seen pics where the angle of the front and rear sections of the driveshaft have to be like in the top of this picture:

 

Worth considering?

 

 

I wouldn't be surprised if the size has changed that much over 50 years.

I don't think the drive shaft issue is a concern.

16 hours ago, inline6 said:

When you raise or lower the engine, that in turn will change the angle of the transmission output shaft.  How much will that matter?  In theory, it would only change the angle of the splined front section of the driveshaft.  I have seen pics where the angle of the front and rear sections of the driveshaft have to be like in the top of this picture:

Put in the new mounts and check the angles.. i think you worry to much.. 😬   A little angle in the axles is good..

16 hours ago, inline6 said:

I have a hard time believing that the original rubber mounts have shrunk as much as the difference I measure here. 

If you had over 400 pounds of weight in your neck for 50 years you would be also a lot smaller! 🤣

6 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Put in the new mounts and check the angles.. i think you worry to much.. 😬   A little angle in the axles is good..

 

 As long as the front and rear angles are the same or darned close.

Thanks for the comments everyone.  I have decided to use the new ones.  I will think about how to check driveshaft alignment, and maybe I can report back what I find when I get to that part of assembly. 

Over the past two weekends, and for a few hours during the last week, I put my attention to the hard lines.  I think it was @motorman7 that I got the tip from for bending the lines for shipping and plating.  I used a welding gas cylinder as a "form" and bent the longest lines around it.  The 180 degree (or so) bends in these are the result.  Unfortunately, either during shipping back to me, or during the plating process, several of the lines got rather "jacked".  The vapor tank vent line was especially messed up.  

I think I have about 10 hours in just straightening and getting the lines refitted, assembly of the brake proportioning valve, etc.  I sourced all new rubber insulators for the hard lines from www.240zrubberparts.com.

    

proportioning valve was disassembled, glass bead blasted, internal and external parts plated, etc.  

    

I am unsure if there is supposed to be a crush washer under the fitting with the electrical post.  There is a rubber o-ring on the shaft of the plastic around the post, so I think that is the only thing that seals this "port".  Crush washers are used with the front and rear yellow chromated fittings.

    

As you can see, the vapor line is reaching for the sky at this point (above right). 

Left front brake line (first two pics) and right front brake line (third pic):

    

Right front brake line from another angle, vapor line orientation corrected, and rear inlets of fuel lines (third pic):

    

Beginning of vapor vent line, rear brake line, and "y block" and rear brake "delay" valve:

    

I have several different things holding up parts of the assembly.  I still have to resolve the differential carrier backlash issue.  The flywheel needs to be resurfaced.  I need to paint the steering rack case before I can assemble the steering rack.   

I have assembled a long list of reassembly items, specifically in the order I think is best.  It is quite long.  To share, I will put it into a Google sheet.  
 

@inline6  nice work, she's looking good!  Quick question, where'd you get that beautiful brake light switch (looks like a proportioning valve)?

Mike

Beautiful, the brake switch does have that small rubber O ring but the top of the body is machined flat as is the bottom of the sensor so I put in a crush washer just to be sure.