Don't hesitate to reach out to me if you need a hand. With enough notice I can drop in on a weekend to give an extra hand. 

On 10/27/2023 at 6:25 AM, SteveJ said:

Don't hesitate to reach out to me if you need a hand. With enough notice I can drop in on a weekend to give an extra hand. 

Thanks Steve!  I have a windshield to install... and a hood... and possibly some other things that I will need help with.  Appreciate the offer and will ask for help before long.   

Today, I finished installing the rear axles.  Thanks for the info about not using too much grease @Captain Obvious!

12 ton press in use - and a nice close up of the rear back plate going onto the strut

    

 

      

 

I like to use silicone on some parts such as the brake shoe "block" to keep water from entering and to keep rust from occurring on the threads of such parts.  Note that I have a new style axle nut (third pic):

    

 

    

 

Axle flange is freshly painted and looking good!

 

 

Because the axle nut is a newer style, I did not use the large flat washer above.  

    

Note axle orientation - axle flange is aligned with hub to minimize weight imbalance.

    

 

In addition to finishing with greasing the bearings and installing the axles, I worked on a stencil for the part number of the mustache bar.  This bar came with the car.  Note the vertical streaks - are these yellow paint marks from the factory?

    

Some of the part number did not survive, so I was also looking at an image from an eBay auction I saved a long time ago as a reference image.

    

 

It's not perfect, but it is closer in size to the original than the picture shows - it is a bit closer to the camera lens that the bar.

Edited October 29, 20231 yr by inline6

I'm going to take a guess and say that yellow drip mark on the moustache bar is from the yellow paint pen/brush used to mark nuts that have been torqued.

It looks like a drip. However, the odd thing is that there are two... one each side of the bar.  They look to be equally distanced from the center line of the bar.  I saw this pic that @kats provided at some point which has a solid yellow stripe:

 

Looking again, it looks to me like there are two yellow lines on each side.  And the width of the reproduction stripe on his bar looks close to the width of what I see on my bar.  Very different locations though.

22 hours ago, inline6 said:

Today, I finished installing the rear axles.  Thanks for the info about not using too much grease @Captain Obvious!

12 ton press in use - and a nice close up of the rear back plate going onto the strut

    

 

      

 

I like to use silicone on some parts such as the brake shoe "block" to keep water from entering and to keep rust from occurring on the threads of such parts.  Note that I have a new style axle nut (third pic):

    

 

    

 

Axle flange is freshly painted and looking good!

 

 

Because the axle nut is a newer style, I did not use the large flat washer above.  

    

Note axle orientation - axle flange is aligned with hub to minimize weight imbalance.

    

 

In addition to finishing with greasing the bearings and installing the axles, I worked on a stencil for the part number of the mustache bar.  This bar came with the car.  Note the vertical streaks - are these yellow paint marks from the factory?

    

Some of the part number did not survive, so I was also looking at an image from an eBay auction I saved a long time ago as a reference image.

    

 

It's not perfect, but it is closer in size to the original than the picture shows - it is a bit closer to the camera lens that the bar.

How did you create your lettering template?

Is it something that could be posted in the resources if you were comfortable sharing?

On 10/29/2023 at 9:11 PM, Patcon said:

How did you create your lettering template?

Is it something that could be posted in the resources if you were comfortable sharing?

I took a lot of measurements of the example I had and basically drew it free hand.  No objection to sharing, but how is best to do that?  Uploading a photo isn't going to be very helpful.  Is there a way to share it in actual size?
  

I found this carpet and jute on eBay.  It looked to be original to me, and I was interested in getting it for the purpose of using it as a pattern for having some custom carpet made.  

 

I have come across various posts on this forum about original carpeting, and am spending time researching further.  To me, this carpet appears to be original.  I am mainly basing this on the color of the backing (underside) and the age, as apparent from the fading.  It is actually in pretty good condition compared to many I have seen in pictures.  I have seen several with more color fading, and several with more wear.  Anyway, something I was not expecting: this carpet is not "loop".  Instead, I think the best description for it may be "cut pile". 

To my understanding, the most "authentic" carpet kit currently available currently is this.  But, that is loop carpet - it is very different.  While from pictures, it may be hard to tell, this carpet definitely isn't compose of upside down "U"s.  It is more like each twisted strand of carpet has had it's top lopped off.

Some more pics:

    

    

  

 

Additionally, it came with one "block" of material that is normally glued to the hatch floor.  It is about the same thickness as the jute... roughly 1 centimeter.

So, original?  And, has anyone pursued getting carpet that is more like this vs. the kits that are available?

 

It is my understanding that Chester and Herod make the most accurate carpet kits. I can't speak to cut pile or not but the backside of the carpet looks correct.

On the template, do you have a way to scan documents. If you do, you could scan it in several passes. It should print pretty close to 1:1

6 hours ago, Patcon said:

It is my understanding that Chester and Herod make the most accurate carpet kits. I can't speak to cut pile or not but the backside of the carpet looks correct.

On the template, do you have a way to scan documents. If you do, you could scan it in several passes. It should print pretty close to 1:1

Unfortunately, Chester and Herod went out of business several years ago.  So, they are no longer an option.  I have a scanner somewhere.  Will have to see if I can get that to work.

I hadn't heard!!! That is very disappointing! I was planning on calling them soon... 😞

Is this not them?

https://www.facebook.com/JIMC123/