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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883


inline6

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The front bumper is now fully fitted.  One thing that is odd to me is how the over riders fit.  The natural fitted position of these is such that a minor tap is likely going to push them into contact the fiberglass head light buckets.  I've only taken the time to look at pictures of a couple other 240z's and it seems to me that the correct fit aligns these just inside the grill opening.  I also am unsure what the correct depth of mounting the bumper is.  I have room to slide it out a tad if that is more correct.  The way I have it now, the closest part of the over rider to the body is at about 1/4".  

IMG_20240618_220202.jpg  IMG_20240618_220248.jpg  IMG_20240618_220318.jpg


When setting the bumper height, I went for an even amount of space above the front turn lamp and below the body recess in the headlight bucket - "centered" in the recessed area:

IMG_20240618_220343.jpg  IMG_20240618_220353.jpg  IMG_20240618_220401.jpg

 

I like the replica competition steering wheel.  It is a little smaller in diameter than the original, which I like.  And it has a thicker grip diameter, which is nice also.  However, it has less dish (so less depth).  Without a seat to sit in, I can't tell if that will be an issue.  I don't want there to be an ergonomics issue where hands and arms don't fit comfortably when my feet are the right distance to the pedals.  Because it has less depth, the rim sits further away compared to the stock rim - I'd say about 1.5 inches less depth.  And because of that, the turn signal stalk has to be bent back some.  When I put the wheel in place, the end of the stalk was only about one and a quarter inches from the back of the rim.  That is not enough clearance for free hand movement on the steering wheel.  The distance between the stalk and the stock steering wheel is about 2 and 7/8" inches.  I think after bending the stalk a bit, I have about 2".  I will give that a try and adjust further if necessary.

Replica competition wheel with wood rim... rebuilt headlight combination switch... cleaned and polished surfaces

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Turn signal stalk depth... cleaned and rebuilt turn signal switch assembly... Front side marker

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Front and rear side markers after cleaning polishing and installation

IMG_20240618_220111.jpg  IMG_20240618_220911.jpg  IMG_20240618_221232.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, inline6 said:

I still have some glue overspray

I know that you can take the overspray glue out of carpets and stuff with a light oil like sawingmachine oil, take a rag with some oil and you can rub it out.. no.. not rub one out, i said rub IT out! 🙊

BTW, nice job! Looks very good. Are those towercovers 2 pieces? So one piece is front wheelwell and the other the rest like the tower and the smaller rear wheelwell? (I believe i have the tower and rear wheelwell parts in my parts cellar.. i sure hope never to do that job though!)

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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16 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Are those tower covers 2 pieces?  So one piece is front wheel well and the other the rest like the tower and the smaller rear wheel well? (I believe i have the tower and rear wheel well parts in my parts cellar.. i sure hope never to do that job though!)

Correct, the tower and smaller rear wheel well are covered by one piece first.  Then, you put on a second piece that covers the front wheel well.  The "riser", behind the seats is installed last.

Yesterday and today I worked on removing scratches from the replacement left door glass I got from @Patcon.  I had to order some more discs and powder, so I set it aside for now.  

I went to install my tail lights and upon close inspection, determined that one of them needed more sanding and polishing to restore the proper shine to the lenses.  After some more effort was expended there, I was able to glue the lenses onto the housings.  For that job, I used auto body seam sealer.  Seems like and odd thing to use, right?   But, the old stuff that I removed from the housings when I pulled the lenses off looked like seam sealer.  And, I had good luck with using it once before on the tail lights on my other 240z.  

My tail light lenses were in rough shape to start.  Lots of pitting and scratches, some of them deep.  I bought a small roll of felt from Home Depot and made little pieces to replace those that were originally in the bottom of the assemblies.  I guess these are vents... to allow any moisture that finds its way into the assemblies to dry.

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While the housing were separate from the lenses, I used a heat gun to attempt to straighten the mounting flanges of the tail lights.  These distort over time and prevent the stock rubber gaskets from sealing to the body of the car like they should.  When "gluing" the lenses back to the assemblies, there is a need to use clamps (and boards and rags) to clamp the lenses to the housings, and let the sealant cure for 24 hours.

IMG_20240705_132422.jpg  IMG_20240705_132426.jpg  IMG_20240706_165900.jpg

 

Even with the housing flanges straightened somewhat, I used some self adhesive weather stripping (highly compressible) between the tail light assemblies and the body.  These are now air tight - no exhaust fumes will be coming in through this notorious location.  While not perfect, the lenses look very nice now.

IMG_20240706_174553.jpg  IMG_20240706_182321.jpg  IMG_20240706_182412.jpg

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Posted (edited)

I wondered why the "cut outs"on that battery frame are where they are as it looks like they did it for the poles not to come to close to the frame? Then it looks like it's made for a 6V battery instead of the 12V battery!  As the 12V has the poles both on the same side of the battery.. (a 6V batery has them, as there are only 3 cells in a 6V. opposite, one front one in the back!)

Are they all the same i think they should have the cut outs both in the front (or rear depending on how you install them.)

Am i the only one that sees this?

Edited by dutchzcarguy
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Those trays were built for a 24 series battery. Height and width is the difference. You probably have a 34 series which is shorter. Had to put a thin plank of wood under the battery itself on mine.

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I recommend you use thick pieces of plastic rather than wood to increase the battery height. Plastic will not retain moisture the way wood would.

Keith

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