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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883


inline6

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  • 2 weeks later...

Work to straighten out the misaligned rocker panel (at the factory) has begun.  In addition to the problem I already showed pictures of, the top of the rocker panel had some misalignment as well.  The outer panel was noticeably low along the top edge, but only for the center portion of the rocker panel.  This caused a dip in the top surface that the aluminum threshold goes over top of:

IMG_20200105_131923.jpg  IMG_20200105_131748.jpg  IMG_20200105_131756.jpg

You can even see where the spot welder completely missed in attempting to join the inner and outer panels.  Seems the workers at the factory had to adjust the welder downward to hit the outer panel, and even then, they could only pick up the top edge.

IMG_20200105_131818.jpg  IMG_20200105_131826.jpg

 

I didn't show how I corrected it, but I just drilled out the spot welds, then used the stud welder to put some pins on the weld flange, and then used a crow bar and piece of plate to protect the top surface of the rocker, while prying up on the pins.  This allowed me to put enough lifting force on the weld flange to raise the low area of the rocker.  I then welded, with my Mig, the holes left from cutting out the factory spot welds, and ground everything flat again with the surface of the outer panel's weld flange: 

IMG_20200106_221354.jpg  IMG_20200106_221404.jpg

IMG_20200106_221413.jpg  IMG_20200106_221431.jpg

 

It's not perfect, but it is much better.  Metal work like this is a big time suck.  Lots of tedious grinding of welds.  I finished them off with my hand held belt sander.  I hope to experiment with the spot welder I bought on this flange, but the electrodes may be too large in diameter to align well on this flange.  We'll see.

Next up was the part where the quarter panel folds over the rocker at the back.

IMG_20200104_135106.jpg  IMG_20200104_135851.jpg

Interesting to see what is inside.

IMG_20200104_145005.jpg  IMG_20200104_144950.jpg

After a light dressing with wire brush... and the outer panel piece receiving some attention in the glass bead cabinet:

IMG_20200104_151030.jpg  IMG_20200104_151047.jpg

The sandblaster was again employed to remove corrosion and get to nice metal.  Got several pictures while this area was seeing the light of day:

IMG_20200105_115630.jpg  IMG_20200105_115650.jpg

Close ups showing pitting (light pitting, in my opinion):

IMG_20200105_115705.jpg  IMG_20200105_115718.jpg

My first 240z was missing the entire dog leg corner (inner and outer).  So nice to see this area in such nice condition.  

IMG_20200105_115727.jpg  IMG_20200105_115802.jpg

Pic showing up inside (bare metal from the factory and the seam sealer they used in the wheel arch).  A few more minutes in the glass bead cabinet with the panel.  The dark corner (upper left in pic) was pitted too much, so I made a section to replace that.

IMG_20200105_115835.jpg  IMG_20200105_122620.jpg

Taping for application of weld thru primer.  I've never used it before.  It is kind of transparent (has been applied in second pic):

IMG_20200105_125630.jpg  IMG_20200105_130933.jpg

Tape removed and outer panel tacking in progress with new fabricated piece also (bottom left)

IMG_20200105_131024.jpg  IMG_20200106_221146.jpg

As the welding occurs, the panel wants to move around.  I used the stud welder to yank on low areas, trying to keep alignment as best as I can as welding continues:

IMG_20200106_221139.jpg  IMG_20200106_221208.jpg

Alignment is not bad.  Lots of time involved with keeping alignment, tacking, and eventually grinding.  I easily have more than 30 hours of time with fixing the rocker and removing and reapplying this panel.  The end result of the main effort, to straighten the bottom of the rocker panel/quarter panel along the bottom of the car is "better".  Sometimes I can't get things good enough to my liking. 

IMG_20200106_221229.jpg  IMG_20200111_150711.jpg

 

I've ground the welds in the last picture down and filled small voids etc.  More pics will follow, but it's time to get out there and work on the car again.  ? 

 

Edited by inline6
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6 hours ago, wheee! said:

Beautiful work!

Thanks!

IMG_20200111_211623.jpg

 

Best I could do with the Mig and grinding.  Maybe I'll be able to do this kind of thing better with the Tig in the future.  And here is where having the car on a rotisserie is so nice!

IMG_20200112_123427.jpg  IMG_20200112_123456.jpg

 

Still body filler art involved with making things straight.  Much work work to do...

IMG_20200112_123504.jpg  IMG_20200112_123527.jpg

Sighting down the body line, it is pretty straight.  Next up (second pic) is to fix the floor panel where it wraps around and didn't get welded to the inner rocker right:

IMG_20200112_123547.jpg  IMG_20200112_123602.jpg

 

More body filler work is ongoing.  I hope to put a bit more epoxy primer on the body of the car tonight.

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I find this rather interesting... and I am thinking about how to proceed.  It seems that the panel gaps around the doors for this car are not ideal.  This is likely a 240z thing or more precisely a 240z of my 240z's vintage thing... but I think the panel gaps here need to be worked a bit to be improved.  

Front of passenger door, bottom door gap line:  At the front, bottom corner, the door panel edge rises upward a bit, increasing the gap distance between the door and the rocker:

IMG_20191111_214559.jpg

Passenger side, where the quarter panel dog leg attaches to the rocker, the distance across the gap to the bottom edge of the door is noticeably narrower than the distance across the gap from the rocker panel to the door bottom edge.  Also, the door gap is inconsistent along this radius at the bottom, back part of the door to the quarter panel.  

IMG_20191111_214615.jpg

Driver side, where the quarter panel dog leg attaches to the rocker, the distance across the gap to the bottom edge of the door is noticeably narrower than the distance across the gap from the rocker panel to the door bottom edge.  Also, the door gap is inconsistent along this radius at the bottom, back part of the door to the quarter panel.  

IMG_20191111_214720.jpg

 

Front of driver door, bottom door gap line:  At the front, bottom corner, the door panel edge rises upward a bit, increasing the gap distance between the door and the rocker:

IMG_20191111_214738.jpg

 

I believe I have a bit more door alignment to do with the driver side door, so that the gap distance for the front of the door is the same as the gap distance on the bottom of the door.  However, I also think I will be adding a bit of weld bead to the bottom front edge of both doors and shaping the added metal to eliminate this issue.  

For the quarter panel areas, I've already started doing minor surgery in the corner of the dog legs to improve door gap in that radius.  This is visible in recent posts of the passenger side work.

Edited by inline6
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/18/2020 at 9:57 AM, ConVerTT said:

Just read all 4 pages!  Great work!

On the doors:  personally I would focus on the trailing edge gaps by the dog legs and leave the leading edge gaps alone.  

 

Thanks!  I will work on the dog leg areas first and then see where I land with door gaps.  I don't think it would be much work to stitch some metal on the few inches of the bottom, front edge of the door, but it will likely cause at least a little distortion.  May leave it alone.  

 

I didn't want to take off the lower corner of the driver quarter panel - I just kept looking at it and trying to convince myself it wasn't worth the extra effort.  I examined it closely and contemplated... Car is upside down in these pics. 

IMG_20200202_120921.jpg  IMG_20200202_120933.jpg

In the first pic, I am looking at distortion in the area where the quarter panel spot welds to the rocker. These outward points or "dents" are areas where the metal is super thin and being pushed outward by the expansion caused by corrosion.

IMG_20200202_120937.jpg  IMG_20200202_120944.jpg

Seeing these little pin holes all the way through the metal, I know that the corrosion on the other side is substantial enough to be breaking through.  Especially, on the bottom flat area, any surface repair here would be short lived if water gets in again. 

IMG_20200202_120948.jpg

Because I want to cut and modify the dog leg curve to improve the fit with the bottom corner of the door, I went ahead marked out where to cut and started cutting and drilling out spot welds.  Opening up the panel revealed quite the mess:

IMG_20200202_123327.jpg  IMG_20200202_123920.jpg  IMG_20200202_123932.jpg

Unlike the passenger side, the corrosion on this side damaged some of the other, inner panels.  

IMG_20200202_123942.jpg  IMG_20200202_124031.jpg  IMG_20200202_124041.jpg

Once again, I employed the sandblaster to remove the rust.

IMG_20200202_140724.jpg  IMG_20200202_140744.jpg  IMG_20200202_140750.jpg

For this side, the panels are more damaged, lots of holes in the back of the rocker panel and a few holes in the inner wheel well panel:

IMG_20200202_140802.jpg  IMG_20200202_140814.jpg  IMG_20200202_140858.jpg

Using the old panel as a guide, I cut a new panel from a flat sheet, and used some 1" X 1" square tubes and my vise to make the 90 degree bend for the weld flange.  Then I marked off a line locating the ~ 45 degree bend and used a piece of aluminum channel (it has a really sharp corner) to replicate the factory bend radius.  Some hand bending of the rest of the panel (clamping the panel in between a 2 X 4 and my bench surface) to make several slight bends... to replicate the shallow curve...)  Getting the distance correct between the 90 degree and 45 degree bends is the hard part.  I am happy with this: 

IMG_20200202_153928.jpg  IMG_20200202_154029.jpg  IMG_20200202_154134.jpg

Once in the correct shape, I used the old one again as a template to locate holes to match the spot weld cut outs.  Then I used a 4 1/2" grinder with a flap wheel to sand the edges of the panel to fit the opening on the car.

IMG_20200202_154158.jpg  IMG_20200202_172537.jpg  IMG_20200202_172545.jpg

Even with just one vise grip holding it on, the fit is very close.

IMG_20200202_172610.jpg  IMG_20200202_172600.jpg  IMG_20200202_172643.jpg

IMG_20200202_172653.jpg  IMG_20200202_172703.jpg  IMG_20200202_172715.jpg

 

I am very happy with how this turned out.  However, I can't close it up yet, as I have more sheet metal work to do to fix the inner panels.

 

Edited by inline6
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Spent a good part of the day today working on the inner part of the driver rocker area.  Started cutting to see how far the cancer went.

 

IMG_20200209_123918.jpg  IMG_20200209_125840.jpg  IMG_20200209_130643.jpg

The "middle" panel (there is an inner, middle and outer) needed replacement sections.  I spent some time making sections to piece together:

IMG_20200209_154207.jpg  IMG_20200209_154237.jpg  IMG_20200209_162841.jpg

I put a few tacks to hold the new panels to each other, but didn't start welding it to the car yet.  I clamped it in place and moved on to making a rocker end cap: 

IMG_20200209_162852.jpg  IMG_20200209_162912.jpg  IMG_20200209_181847.jpg

Fit of the rocker end cap is "getting there":

IMG_20200209_181926.jpg

 

This piece has some compound curves, but I will section it a bit to try for the best fit possible.  Before I start welding these pieces in place, I will use the sand blaster to remove the surface rust.

Edited by inline6
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On 2/10/2020 at 8:15 AM, grannyknot said:

Beautiful work.

Thanks man.  Hey, I looked at your profile and just about every license plate in the pics is from Virginia.  But you are in Toronto, right?  Why all the VA plate pics?  I am originally from there - Charlottesville.

Garrett

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