Hi Guys! 

New to the site. Just bought a 1977 280z. Its my second Z, but first S30 and I am ecstatic to get started. It seems pretty common place to introduce new projects here so I figured I would drop a note. 

Current Prognosis: Chassis is in good shape and car both starts and runs pretty well for its age, but definitely needs some dialing in. Going to keep it mostly original and focus on restoring its performance to 1977 spec. 

• Many of the bushings are original and need to be replaced.
• Engine ticks pretty loudly until it is fully to temp and likes to hang at 2000rpm on downshifts.
• There is light surface rust on the rear suspension components, engine sub frame, and a few small body panel issues (picture below) which need some TLC.
• Car was repainted a decade or so ago and while it looks good from a distance, its very rough up close. 
  
  A few photos are below, or you can get all the detail from the seller's BaT Post from a few years ago. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-8/

2019/2020 Projects

• Fluids Change [Complete]
• Shifter Bushings [Complete]
• Brake Master Cylinder Replacement & Bleed [Complete]
• Vacuum Hose Replacement [In-Process]
• Powder-coat Suspension Components
• Bushing Update (Poly Primarily)
• Oil Pan Seal Replacement
• Rear Main Seal Replacement
• Rust Remediation

Future Projects (WIP)

• Front/Rear bumper & DIA trim delete and replacement with 240z/260z components
• Paint respray (Either original silver or the blue/green Datsun paint of same era
• 5 Speed Transmission?

Small body rust spot above drivers side door drain

Chassis/Suspension components to be painted or powder coated

Test 3D print of the car (Still waiting on Silver filament ?

 

Engine tick is most likely loose valves, easy fix. High hanging rpm is most likely boost controlled deceleration device, easy fix.

It's late for my old arse but will tell what I know tomorrow.

Nice car and welcome to our forum. You'll  get all the help you ask for just be patient.

Cliff

Many people prefer new rubber oem bushings where possible. The urethane ones can be overly harsh

12 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Engine tick is most likely loose valves, easy fix. High hanging rpm is most likely boost controlled deceleration device, easy fix.

Thanks for the warm welcome Cliff! Glad to hear these are relatively easy fixes. Any insights you have on them are welcome! Do you know if there is a inspection list of common issues somewhere on the forum that I should run down while she's put away for winter?

10 hours ago, Patcon said:

Many people prefer new rubber oem bushings where possible. The urethane ones can be overly harsh

That has been a big debate of mine. My friend (~60 y/o man, lifetime track rat) made fun of me for considering rubber bushings, but the car has pretty good road feel already. 

 

 

"Track rats" don't car if it's harsh; only how it turns

For me I went with new rubber because I don't plan on thrashing the car...much

You could look in the "waking the sleeping beast" thread and see if something stands out to you

On 11/7/2019 at 8:45 AM, Patcon said:

For me I went with new rubber because I don't plan on thrashing the car...much

Yeah. She has 38k original miles. Might save this one for cruising and turn the next one into a thrasher. Any recommendations for where you got your rubber? I see a lot of kits for Poly, but not many rubber kits. 

On 11/7/2019 at 8:45 AM, Patcon said:

You could look in the "waking the sleeping beast" thread and see if something stands out to you

Good call. Was looking through one of the posts last night and it had some good suggestions. 

@dmuzial, congrats on your purchase. Looks like a very stable starting point.

Check out the 1977 wiring diagram now supported by @EuroDat in the download section.

It's been through several revisions since posted back in 2004

Wayne

Many of the rubber bushings are available new from Nissan. You can find the parts numbers here

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978

Then go to courtesy nissans parts page and check the availability and pricing

Welcome to the forum. If you need help, this is the place to be.

I'm with @Patcon on the poly bushing kits. It makes the ride a lot harsher. I can personally vouch for that and still regret changing certain (mustache bar) components. It does handle better, I give it that, but the ride certainly got a lot harder and anything that could rattle did after the swap.

If you do go poly and the mustache bar bushes are in good condition, my advice; look for another mustache bar to fit the poly bushes. Those original bushes are NLA (no longer available) and if your car has 38k chances are they will still be in good condition. They will be one of those hard to get parts in the future.

If you want to chance the bumpers, there are some god threads on this site to help you. Plenty of other things to attend to before tackling that.

Goodluck and enjoy.

 

9 hours ago, wal280z said:

Check out the 1977 wiring diagram now supported by @EuroDat in the download section.

It's been through several revisions since posted back in 2004

Wayne

Btw. Wayne rightfully deserves all the credit for that wiring diagram. I'm just babysitting.

@dmuzial, are you Auto70 on BaT?  If so it sounded like you and the seller were pretty close on price, nice to see it end up with someone on this site.

I'm in the fresh rubber bushing camp as well, the difference between the old rubber and new is quite surprising and firmer than you might think.      You can never post too many pics on this forum, following other members build threads is always pleasure. I just completed a 77/280z project myself  and I'm looking for another one, great cars. You might might find a few 77 specific things of interest here,

 

On 11/8/2019 at 5:41 PM, wal280z said:

Check out the 1977 wiring diagram now supported by @EuroDat in the download section.

@wal280z Thanks for sharing and thanks @EuroDat for maintaining this for us! Added to my favorites!

On 11/8/2019 at 5:46 PM, Patcon said:

Many of the rubber bushings are available new from Nissan. You can find the parts numbers here

@Patcon thanks! Appreciate it. I have seen Courtesy mentioned a few times before. Is it because they have a big eCommerce presence? 

On 11/9/2019 at 3:30 AM, EuroDat said:

If you do go poly and the mustache bar bushes are in good condition, my advice; look for another mustache bar to fit the poly bushes. Those original bushes are NLA (no longer available) and if your car has 38k chances are they will still be in good condition. They will be one of those hard to get parts in the future.

@EuroDat Thanks for the feedback re: Poly. Will start with Rubber. Can always change up later once I get a chance to see how stiff it is. That rattle is something I am more concerned with knowing the wiring is 43 years old and Chicago's roads aren't known for their smoothness. Thanks for the heads up for the Mustache Bar bushings. Now I know what to scan for when I find parts cars haha. Is there a list somewhere of the NLA parts? 

On 11/9/2019 at 8:06 AM, grannyknot said:

@dmuzial, are you Auto70 on BaT? 

@grannyknot Not the same guy (unfortunately for him). Seller was a nice guy, but he wanted $13,000+ for it originally. The paint is in pretty terrible shape (looks great from far off, but is rough up close) and there are a lot of maintenance things that need done from years of minimal use. Ended up buying it this summer for a little less than the BAT number about 2 years after its original listing. 

May PM you in a few weeks regarding your experience, but will look through your post first. Excited to see the progress you made. ? 

PS Sorry everyone for all of the call outs, had garage cleaning duty before Chicago's salt makes taking the car out of the garage impossible.