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1977 280z Light Restoration Project


Muzez

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Thanks guys. That was my gut feel too. Will take a look first. May need your help deciphering what I am looking at first. 

Any tips on getting the EGR connector from exhaust to intake disconnected? Been dosing with CRC Freeze off and penetrating oil for a week. Tried heat but will try again. Is it possible to buy a new pipe if I need to cut it? 

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34 minutes ago, Yarb said:

@Mark MarasDid you mean valve seals earlier in your post? I think that’s what you were referencing. Try some Kano Kroil penetrant and MAF gas. A lot easier to work with it out of the car.

 I should have included valve seals but i meant changing the valve seats to prevent premature wear due to the lack of lead in today's fuel.

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If you replace the head gasket it'd be a chance to pull the front cover off and check the timing chain and guides, tensioner too. Maybe a new water pump since they're available and not very much money. Check the rubber on the motor mounts in the engine bay. Those are fairly cheap too.

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9 hours ago, Muzez said:

the car ran well and has only ~40k miles

This is the dilemma.  40,000 is not much.  The question would be, what has aged, not so much what has worn.  

On the valve seats, I think that they might have went to the harder seat material for 77.  I think it's in the 1976 Bulletin.  Maybe somewhere else.  Vague memory again...

 

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My  early 75 California model had a N42 head, the gas gauge says to use unleaded fuel and the exhaust system has a cat. I wonder if the bronze would have been used on that head? was it generally known that unleaded fuel would be an issue?. should know soon since I pulled the engine with the intent of finding the cause of the excessive oil consumption.

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