L28 full rebuild assembly

[Av8ferg]

I’m was prying pretty hard, it wasn’t going to move, the big screwdriver was bending. I guess I’ll pull it all apart and try and shave those flanges a tad. Book says to measure them prior and then lightly sand.
Thanks for the advice guys!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[grannyknot]

Besides it gives you the opportunity to turn those caps around.

[Av8ferg]

Besides it gives you the opportunity to turn those caps around.

Well, I did that already. The block came back with the caps on. I reviewed my disassembly photos and noticed the arrows were the wrong way so fixed that when installed the bearings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Av8ferg]

You look good as far as I can tell, I rebuilt mine 2 years ago and yours looks like mine. Its not going to free spin with your fingers or hand. 
You are using the L28 Engine rebuild book, right?   Its got everything you need for this. 
Keep it up!
 

Thanks. I am using the L28 rebuild book. I guess it’s better to be safe than sorry. I’m going to double back, check my work, pull it back off and try and get some measurements off this thrust bearing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Patcon]

Did they line bore the block? If they did, I would ask which way the caps were installed when they did it. If the block wasn't line bored then install them with the arrows forward

[Av8ferg]

Did they line bore the block? If they did, I would ask which way the caps were installed when they did it. If the block wasn't line bored then install them with the arrows forward

The block was only tanked and bores honed.
I’m going to buy a dial indicator tomorrow and if its within tolerance then I won’t pull it apart.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Patcon]

It is a great rebuild tool. It will help with measuring TDC and any piston protrusion from the block

[Av8ferg]

Head is finally in my garage and looks pretty good. $300 for all the work.
Cleaned, replaced valve seat, and complete valve job.
I just wish I had time to put this engine back together.
Side notes. This is double confirmation that the OSK timing chain kit doesn’t have the V-notch on the sprocket. Was $68 on EBay. Nice kit IMHO.

Rod bearings arrived too. I purchased tri-metal standard bearings made by Taiho $38. Tried to buy the Clevite 77 P- series but they are no longer available anywhere in STD sizes for Rods.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dave WM]

you may want to make your own notch. I would put the two sprockets back to back, then using the old one as a guide, scratch in some marke where it should be. then use a v cut file and make your own. easy to do while its apart.

did you try spinning the camshaft with the valve gear not in it? looking for a nice low drag, no tight spots spin.

[Av8ferg]

you may want to make your own notch. I would put the two sprockets back to back, then using the old one as a guide, scratch in some marke where it should be. then use a v cut file and make your own. easy to do while its apart.
did you try spinning the camshaft with the valve gear not in it? looking for a nice low drag, no tight spots spin.

Dave, I put the old sprocket on and spun the cam about a 1/2 turn to try and stop any of valves from protruding past the deck.
Good idea with the sprocket but I could also check the timing position using the old sprocket and then once set put the new one on in the same hole.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dave WM]

I am thinking mainly to make sure things line up, some times installing the sprocket can get dicy with what link its on. Plus you will want it to check for wear later on.

I would suggest you remove all the valve rockers and make sure you don't have any tight spots on the camshaft. If it does you maybe able to correct with careful tightening of the cam tower bolts.

[siteunseen]

I'm going to guess the machinest checked the cam's movement before he put the valve train on. $300 should cover something that simple.