L28 full rebuild assembly

[Captain Obvious]

Oh well. So my first salvo was a complete miss. I'll have a beer or two and see if I can remember where I read about that...

[Av8ferg]

Made progress today. Oil pan and oil pump installed. I had a bunch of stuff Powder-coated (intake manifold, thermostat housings and some small brackets and bits and pieces). They should be here in a few days. I’ve also adjusted all the intake valves to the cold setting. I’ll do the exhaust tomorrow. I also have two ZX distributors that I’m going to clean up and check out (I think I found a write-up for rebuilding those). After some close inspection I’ll make the determination but they need to clean up for sure.

 

 

[Dave WM]

nice and clean. Hope you used the sealant on the water pump bolts that go into the water jacket.

[Av8ferg]

nice and clean. Hope you used the sealant on the water pump bolts that go into the water jacket.

Dave, I didn’t seal the actual bolts but I did put sealant on both sides of the gasket on the portion of the cover on (upper left side) per the instruction. I didn’t Ted about actually sealing bolts. Can you clarify? All my bolts are new and I also put a tad of anti-seize on them.


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[Av8ferg]

So, I had a good look at my distributors today. One is from an my 82 ZX engine and the other from an 83 ZX non-turbo out of a JY for $20. They look a bit rusty on the inside and some of the gaps are not even or consistent. I have no idea what the operational condition is of either of them. I was looking online at replacement ones and they run around $147 for an aftermarket brands (Cardone) to $300+ for an OEM. I also read about having them rebuilt. I’m not sure the costs there but companies like Advanced Distributors is recommended but has a long turnaround time (6-12 weeks). What might be the best way to move forward? Anyone have a lot of knowledge on this topic? Is this something I could easily rebuild? See pics below of the twins.



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[Zed Head]

sitecliffunseen often links to the atlanticz/blue/246 page showing how to rebuild the ZX distributor.  Your first one looks like the bushing is shot.  The second might be okay.

What's wrong with your 280Z distributor?  Same power level, just a remote ignition module.

[Av8ferg]

sitecliffunseen often links to the atlanticz/blue/246 page showing how to rebuild the ZX distributor.  Your first one looks like the bushing is shot.  The second might be okay.
What's wrong with your 280Z distributor?  Same power level, just a remote ignition module.

Well, I’ve read that the ZX dizzy has a more powerful spark. I read it has the E12-80 ignition "matchbox" circuit integrated negating the need of a ballast resistor? Also I don’t have access to my 280z distributor. The car is still stored at my parents house 3 hours away. I building a house which should be done in mid May. My goal was to have the engine completely ready to install when the car finally moves into its new home.



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[Dave WM]

you will know if you need the sealant on the WP bolts after you run it. I did the exact same thing as you, new bolts, sealant on gasket (thin high tack, blue aftermarket gasket), and I had a persistent leak on the bottom long bolt. I had success with WP replacement no leaks before but that was using the crummy old bolts that had left over junk on the threads. I think what happens is the coolant gets past the treads (and the antiseize) travels up the bolt in the nice gasketed seal cavity, until it get to the end of the line under the bolt head, and from there it leaks.

I tried it twice thinking I had missed something, finally stopped after I applied some white thread sealant (not lock tight or antiseize but actual thread sealant) to the bolts that go though into the block. That is what finally stopped it. who know it may have corroded up and stopped on its own, the leak was minor, like a drop forming on the outside under the head of the bolt, wipe it off and it comes right back kind of deal. I used OE new bolts.

Edited February 28, 2020 by Dave WM

[Av8ferg]

Thanks for the heads up Dave. I’d like to run this engine prior to install. Some much easier to address problems


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[Zed Head]

4 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

Well, I’ve read that the ZX dizzy has a more powerful spark. I read it has the E12-80 ignition "matchbox" circuit integrated negating the need of a ballast resistor? 

 

Nissan improved things in 1978.  The ignition module seems to have the same features as the ZX module, it's "high energy" as shown by wide spark plug gap, it's just in the old big package.  They got rid of the ballast, your 78 doesn't have it.  .

Beside the mechanical issues, finding the E12-80 modules for the ZX is more difficult.  A name brand module will cost almost as much as the rebuild in your other thread.  Just something to consider.  Your 280Z module is flexible as far as ignition module options, you can use MSD, Crane, or whatever, without too much trouble.  

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1979,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209293,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172

[Av8ferg]

Nissan improved things in 1978.  The ignition module seems to have the same features as the ZX module, it's "high energy" as shown by wide spark plug gap, it's just in the old big package.  They got rid of the ballast, your 78 doesn't have it.  .
Beside the mechanical issues, finding the E12-80 modules for the ZX is more difficult.  A name brand module will cost almost as much as the rebuild in your other thread.  Just something to consider.  Your 280Z module is flexible as far as ignition module options, you can use MSD, Crane, or whatever, without too much trouble.  
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1979,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209293,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172

ZH, this is good info so thank you for that. BTW mine is an early 77, (11/76 build) I think it has a ballast resistor. So I can buy a regular 77 distributors and put one of the modules from these ZX ones and I’ll be good. Not sure I’ve got all this figured out. Guy want $200 to do a full rebuild. I just posted another thread on this specific topic.


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[Zed Head]

I thought you had a 78.  Oops.  You can use a different module with the 77 distributor, without modifying the distributor itself, and get rid of the ballast.

But.  Your 77 distributor might need a rebuild also.  They tend to rust up.

Distributation is getting harder these days.  The parts is disappearing.  Good idea to get ahead of the problem.