Wanted to share this photo. Hit the junkyard today between flights. It’s sad enough to see these cars in a junkyard. Some large animal, mule or horse crapped in the light bucket.




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Must be Rodney Dangerfields Z car..

While I’m waiting for my parts to arrive on my transmission (I really want to get that thing back together and behind me). I got parts all over my already disorganized garage. I don’t want to lose track of things. While in wait I decided to turn back to the engine build. I have parts inbound for that too. Seems like every time I turn around I realize I forgot to order something which slows the process down. My wife loves to heckle me and last week said, “your sneaking in parts for an entire car one package at time”.
So, studs came in for exhaust manifold (from a 300zx part number). They’re very nice that is (S30 Driver), copper flange nuts too. Realized I hadn’t orders the gasket...”darn it”, so was doing a test fit yesterday and realized I don’t have the intake manifold bolts. No big deal right...I have an ACE hardware and they have a full line of metric stainless bolts. Not so fast. Oh, but now I discover these are unique bolts...”really, WTF” I did some research and forums state they’re M10 x 1.25 fine thread, fact or fiction?. What length?...no clue, only that they’re possibly two different lengths also. I went to MSAs site and they sell them but their explanation states two lengths too. There are two links for 2 different bolts. So, I know someone on here knows this answer.
What do I need here and where do the short and long ones go on the head? Finding a M10x1.25 is unusual. All the M10 bolts I find go to 1.5 pitch, so really think I need to buy the MSA ones.
Here is MSAs links and pics of my head. Any explanation as to why are there extra holes next to where the intake mounts would be nice too. (See purple circles on pic)


https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/14-1710


https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/14-1709







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If you're planning to put an older non-webbed intake manifold onto your F54 (like the one you showed above), then yes... They used two different bolt lengths. 77 FSM page EM-26.  Longs on the outsides, shorts on the inner two. As a side note, you can even see the difference in thickness of the bosses on the intake manifold. 

If you're planning to put your webbed later manifold on, it might be the same bolt length across the board. I took a quick look at the 83 intake I have here (webbed), and the bosses do not appear to be any difference across the board, so it wouldn't really need different length bolts.

So maybe they stopped doing that when they went to the webbed manifold?

I've got my uses 83 intake manifold bolts here somewhere, but can't put my fingers on them instantly.  Give me a little bit to find those and I'll check them. Or maybe someone else will chime in who already knows.

Edited May 28, 20204 yr by Captain Obvious

As for the additional smaller holes. they're for carb manifolds. Very convenient for people who want to run carbs with the later heads. All the holes are already there. Drilled and tapped.

If you're planning to put an older non-webbed intake manifold onto your F54 (like the one you showed above), then yes... They used two different bolt lengths. 77 FSM page EM-26.  Longs on the outsides, shorts on the inner two. As a side note, you can even see the difference in thickness of the bosses on the intake manifold. 
If you're planning to put your webbed later manifold on, it might be the same bolt length across the board. I took a quick look at the 83 intake I have here (webbed), and the bosses do not appear to be any difference across the board, so it wouldn't really need different length bolts.
So maybe they stopped doing that when they went to the webbed manifold?
I've got my uses 83 intake manifold bolts here somewhere, but can't put my fingers on them instantly.  Give me a little bit to find those and I'll check them. Or maybe someone else will chime in who already knows.

Thanks Bruce, I should have been more observant and seen that. Okay, I checked and the manifold has and extended area where the head of the nut sits on the outer manifold connections. Okay, I am at a work stoppage due to “awaiting parts”. I head on a trip to Oklahoma City for almost 4 days and a sea of packages will arrive when I’m gone so I can start back next week and my wife can give me a hard time about parts arriving.
If anyone live in the OKC area let me know. I have 64 hrs layover there where I’m not working. Sitting in a hotel rotting away.


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Well don't beat yourself up about it. The differences in length are really not much. In fact, I'm really wondering why they didn't standardize on the same length bolt in all four positions in the first place. I'm guessing there was a miscalculation or design change somewhere along the way that they worked around using the two different lengths. I wasn't there when they designed it. but I don't see any functional reason for it.

And hope you can find some enjoyable way to pass the layover time. No junkyards in the area? 

Do you guys have the motor leveler for your hoist? They're cheap from Harbor Freight.

Instead of turning that crappy handle you can put a socket wrench on the other end.

 

My build buddy bought one. I don't know if they have different "quality" levels, but it was the bottom of the line.

We used it once and after that unbelievably frustrating and dangerous episode of thread galling and smashed knuckles trying to turn the handle... He told me it was my decision, I could either make it better, or throw the piece of shite out.

I replaced the threaded rod with some all thread I had laying around, made all the wallowed out oval holes round again, and added additional lock-nuts all over the place to keep things where they belonged. We've subsequently used it to remove and install three motors and it's waaaaaaaay better.

Sorry I don't have any pics.

I’m back from my trip, had a pile of parts waiting for me. Decided to start with getting the manifolds on . I sprayed the gasket with copper spray ( I know this is controversial, but with headers wanted to ensure a solid seal).
Anyway, I’ve been meaning to ask about this oil breather pipe. How is this thing kept on the engine. Mine is loose and I do t recall when I took it apart that there was anything keeping it in the block. See my video below for clarification.

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The block breather tube is simply a interference or press fit John.   How loose does it fit in the block?

Glad you made it back, hopefully safely amid all the mayhem of late...

Just a guess but I would use some lock tite red on it, let it set overnight.