hmmm, you have gone this far, if it was me I would get the pickup that is designed for the pan being used if its different. Not saying it would not be fine, but why bother if you can get the right part.

Edited February 12, 20205 yr by Dave WM

The right combo is a lot farther away, a good 4 or 5 inches.  I would want the magnet tipped plug in the "pool" but do what you want.

 

Edited February 12, 20205 yr by siteunseen

And I just realized that there is an indentation in the pan for the pickup's base.  Learned something new today now I can go to sleep. 

hmmm, you have gone this far, if it was me I would get the pickup that is designed for the pan being used if its different. Not saying it would not be fine, but why bother if you can get the right part.

Dave, I tend to agree with you. Now I need to find one because they appear out of stock at all the typical Z retailers. If anyone wants to sell an extra or knows where one is available for sale let me know. I’ll start digging. All stop....for now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The right combo is a lot farther away, a good 4 or 5 inches.  I would want the magnet tipped plug in the "pool" but do what you want.

 

Thanks Cliff..great point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got a replacement on its way from Ebay $39.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So for future reference here’s what a ZX and Z oil pick-up tube look like side by side. Approximately 1.5” longer on the ZX one. Oil pan going on today.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

did you put together a test stand?

 

did you put together a test stand?
 

Dave, I’ve been admiring your test stand since you built it. I’d prefer to leave from your mistakes then make my own. Do you a plan to copy? The only problem is I need to buy extra stuff, like a radiator, starter. I have extra AFMs, ECUs and other bits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking for some feedback on the best way to move forward on my fuel injectors. I have two full extra sets of injectors. I really don’t think it’s necessary to buy new ones so I’m considering having mine reconditioned. Reading some older posts on this forum I’m thinking of sending mine off to Motor Man. See link below for what they do to the injectors. For $14.99 each seems like a worthwhile investment. I’m this far in their build why put unverified injectors in this engine. Anyone have any opinions or recommendations.

https://m.motormanfuelinjection.com/page/subpage/recondition-return-service/top-feed-fuel-injector-cleaning.htm

Thanks



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's pretty easy to "verify" your own injectors, at least as far as wide open flow rate.  You can put them on a fuel rail and measure output.  Most reconditioning is just a cleaning and a new inlet screen, if possible.  Often it's just cleaning.  Besides the inlet screen and the hose and the pintle cap, these old injectors cannot be "rebuilt".

What injectors do you have?  Are they original?  Pictures are always good.

30 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

Dave, I’ve been admiring your test stand since you built it. I’d prefer to leave from your mistakes then make my own. Do you a plan to copy? The only problem is I need to buy extra stuff, like a radiator, starter. I have extra AFMs, ECUs and other bits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

starter is cheap just get one from a JY or autozone, always a good thing to keep in your spares bucket. for rad you can just plumb it for a straight thru water supply, put a hose on the inlet and let it free flow (keep the t stat out). It will never comp up to temp but you can at least hear it run and check for leaks etc...

anyway you can rig the engine so its not going to fall sideways would do it, I used a saw horse configuration with the pan fitting in the middle, no real need to bolt down the engine, its not going anywhere. the starter can fit with just the thin steel plate that fits between the trans and engine, its plenty stout enough to hold the start in the correct position.

 

Edited February 24, 20205 yr by Dave WM