DMM

[Patcon]

I am looking at getting a new Digital Multi Meter. Should I get a Fluke? Is it worth the extra money? I saw a Klein that was pretty cheap but didn't know if it was good. If I do a Fluke, which model?

 

[240260280]

Yeah. Fluke is great.  Even old used ones are tough, accurate and dependable.

[grannyknot]

I just picked up this one last week at a hock shop, very well built but Klein makes good stuff too.

 

[Patcon]

I had looked at one of the kits that includes the amperage loop and a couple of other things but there are options even there. I don't really understand what the differences are. The are 15dB's and 17dB's, etc ????

[SteveJ]

What? Did you lose my phone number? 

Fluke meters tend to be very solid meters that hold up a long time. Mine is close to 20 years old, and it doesn't miss a beat. Of course, you could get a Simpson meter, and your grandsons could be fighting over who gets it. My brother grabbed my dad's Simpson when my dad passed away. That meter is probably about 60 years old and just periodically needs batteries. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R6MWL0/

What do you want to measure? 

• AC Voltage
• DC Voltage
• AC Current
• DC Current
• Resistance
• Temperature (via a thermocouple)
• Capacitance (nice if you need to test the start capacitor on an AC unit for your house)
• Inductance (Are you curious about whether or not that coil is good?)
• RPM (nice for tuning and setting idle speed)

The catch is that you can't get all of these features in one meters. The Fluke 115 and 117 are good choices if you don't want temperature measurement. The 116 is the one to get if you want temperature measurement more than current. (Frankly, an inexpensive loop meter for current isn't a bad idea. It can be tricky to use leads to measure current and easy to blow the fuse in the meter if you don't do it right. https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS2108A-Current-Multimeter-Frequency/dp/B00KXC8GEW)

For RPM, I bought this cheap meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K

[dutchzcarguy]

I've got a Beckman multimeter and a voltcraft for the big amps measurement..  only one thing important, buy something you can rely on..  The FLUKE is like a BECKMAN a very good multimeter.  I've used them many times at work.

[240260280]

My first meter was a BECKMAN back in the 80's... very reliable.  I gave it to my father a long time ago and he still uses it.  I now have a monster Fluke in the garage that is too much meter.... so I agree with SteveJ's list... they are just right.

 

Fluke make a tiny one that seems useful and inexpensive called the 101.  It would be great for your son or anyone that is a young'n ?

https://www.fluke.com/en-in/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-101

 

 

~ $70-$100 new

Edited November 30, 2019 by 240260280

[Patcon]

12 hours ago, SteveJ said:

What? Did you lose my phone number? 

Fluke meters tend to be very solid meters that hold up a long time. Mine is close to 20 years old, and it doesn't miss a beat. Of course, you could get a Simpson meter, and your grandsons could be fighting over who gets it. My brother grabbed my dad's Simpson when my dad passed away. That meter is probably about 60 years old and just periodically needs batteries. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R6MWL0/

What do you want to measure? 

• AC Voltage
• DC Voltage
• AC Current
• DC Current
• Resistance
• Temperature (via a thermocouple)
• Capacitance (nice if you need to test the start capacitor on an AC unit for your house)
• Inductance (Are you curious about whether or not that coil is good?)
• RPM (nice for tuning and setting idle speed)

The catch is that you can't get all of these features in one meters. The Fluke 115 and 117 are good choices if you don't want temperature measurement. The 116 is the one to get if you want temperature measurement more than current. (Frankly, an inexpensive loop meter for current isn't a bad idea. It can be tricky to use leads to measure current and easy to blow the fuse in the meter if you don't do it right. https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS2108A-Current-Multimeter-Frequency/dp/B00KXC8GEW)

For RPM, I bought this cheap meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K

I was getting ready to ping you actually!

I just thought I would make the discussion public for general benefit and noobs.

These, I believe. It will be my truck meter so I will use it at work as well as in the shop.

AC Voltage

DC Voltage

AC Current

DC Current

Resistance

Capacitance (nice if you need to test the start capacitor on an AC unit for your house)

Inductance (Are you curious about whether or not that coil is good?)

 

I can use my timing gun for RPM

What are the pros and cons of a 115 versus a 117?

[SteveJ]

If you are really interested in doing AC current measurements, use a loop tester. Chances are the inexpensive type like what I linked will work fine. Just remember to isolate the wires and only put the current loop around 1 wire, otherwise the fields will cancel out.

The 117 offers non-contact detection. The low impedance features are nice but not must-have. If I was getting a new Fluke, I would be happy with either one.

[dutchzcarguy]

11 hours ago, SteveJ said:

interested in doing AC current measurements, use a loop tester.

Also for DC current useable..   ( to look at the starting current… at your starter, around 100-130 amps…)

Edited December 1, 2019 by dutchzcarguy

[SteveJ]

12 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Also for DC current useable..   ( to look at the starting current… at your starter, around 100-130 amps…)

Yes, that's what I use on the battery. Also, the loop tester (also called  a clamp meter) is forgiving about polarity. Testing with meter leads is not.

[Patcon]

I am leaning towards this

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-323-KIT-Multimeter-Clamp/dp/B00DTSLWRA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=fluke+117&qid=1575730850&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-5

One article spoke about "consistant spurious currents", in what conditions do these currents show up? Is this what I see when measuring a section of a 3 way light switch and there is some lower voltage being indicated even though that leg of the switch is off?