DMM

[Captain Obvious]

I'm not sure what they mean by "consistent spurious currents". Have you got a link to the discussion?

[Patcon]

It was in this review

https://healthyhandyman.com/fluke-115-vs-fluke-117/

[grannyknot]

"Not intended for electronics" that's kind of limiting isn't it?

[Patcon]

53 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

"Not intended for electronics" that's kind of limiting isn't it?

I don't really do any circuit board work. Right now I don't see it in my future. I think that is what they are referring to

[SteveJ]

Charles, don't stress about it. If you think you'll be doing much in the way of AC current measurement, get the package with the 323. If you think you will be doing DC current measurement, I stand by my earlier recommendations. I have no complaints about my 20 year old Fluke (a pre-116 version of the HVAC meter).

If you are worried about the meter capabilities, then go with the 87V. Here it is with the AC current clamp: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-FLUKE-87-V-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B004HDUNQ2. Yes, it's pricey, but it's hard to beat the capabilities. 

[Captain Obvious]

2 hours ago, grannyknot said:

"Not intended for electronics" that's kind of limiting isn't it?

I think that comment is simply a reflection of the available ranges for current measurement. Those reviews look to me like they were written by "electricians" who spend their days working on 120-240 AC circuits. House wiring and appliances. They are making a distinction between that type of work, and the "electronics tech" sitting at his workbench troubleshooting a radio. They're implying that the guy working on radios might need something better for measuring low currents in the milliamp or microamp range.

My thought is that even though there are some "really small current" devices on the Z cars, I don't think most people would need a meter to mess with them. Things like fixing a radio, or the clock.

And that other stuff about spurious "ghost" voltages and stuff? Scares me more than it seems like a feature. Best I can tell is they're saying that "ghost voltages" are sources of voltages that have a high source impedance. Goes like this...

Your normal voltmeter draws very little current in order to make it's measurement. In fact, the lower the better. You want to draw very little current, because any current you draw with meter will affect the reading. But they're saying that in "electrician" work, you can run into the situation where you might read a voltage on something (their video measured 4V between H and G on a power strip), but they're saying that if you switch over to their "LoZ" range, it will show you zero volts. The implication is that when you apply a load to that voltage, it drags it down to zero because the source impedance is so high.

Frankly, I'd want to know where the high impedance bleed over is in my circuit that is allowing me to read 4V where I should be reading 0. What's the threshold for ground fault interrupters anyway?

The 117 also has a non-contact voltage alert range, but I'm sure you've already got a pocket sized non-contact indicator you've been using for years and already trust. I'd just stick with that. Personally, I'd always measure it before I go sticking my hand in there, regardless of what a non-contact indicator says.

My bottom line? I don't think there's anything on the 117 that you would need over the 115 unless you want to toss out your old non-contact indicator and want to start taking the 117 to the job site.

[Patcon]

5 hours ago, SteveJ said:

Charles, don't stress about it. If you think you'll be doing much in the way of AC current measurement, get the package with the 323. If you think you will be doing DC current measurement, I stand by my earlier recommendations. I have no complaints about my 20 year old Fluke (a pre-116 version of the HVAC meter).

If you are worried about the meter capabilities, then go with the 87V. Here it is with the AC current clamp: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-FLUKE-87-V-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B004HDUNQ2. Yes, it's pricey, but it's hard to beat the capabilities. 

My plan is to take my older meter off my truck and make it my shop meter and put the new meter on my truck. It will do mostly AC work with a little DC thrown in there when the truck breaks.

 

4 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I think that comment is simply a reflection of the available ranges for current measurement. Those reviews look to me like they were written by "electricians" who spend their days working on 120-240 AC circuits. House wiring and appliances. They are making a distinction between that type of work, and the "electronics tech" sitting at his workbench troubleshooting a radio. They're implying that the guy working on radios might need something better for measuring low currents in the milliamp or microamp range.

My thought is that even though there are some "really small current" devices on the Z cars, I don't think most people would need a meter to mess with them. Things like fixing a radio, or the clock.

And that other stuff about spurious "ghost" voltages and stuff? Scares me more than it seems like a feature. Best I can tell is they're saying that "ghost voltages" are sources of voltages that have a high source impedance. Goes like this...

Your normal voltmeter draws very little current in order to make it's measurement. In fact, the lower the better. You want to draw very little current, because any current you draw with meter will affect the reading. But they're saying that in "electrician" work, you can run into the situation where you might read a voltage on something (their video measured 4V between H and G on a power strip), but they're saying that if you switch over to their "LoZ" range, it will show you zero volts. The implication is that when you apply a load to that voltage, it drags it down to zero because the source impedance is so high.

Frankly, I'd want to know where the high impedance bleed over is in my circuit that is allowing me to read 4V where I should be reading 0. What's the threshold for ground fault interrupters anyway?

The 117 also has a non-contact voltage alert range, but I'm sure you've already got a pocket sized non-contact indicator you've been using for years and already trust. I'd just stick with that. Personally, I'd always measure it before I go sticking my hand in there, regardless of what a non-contact indicator says.

My bottom line? I don't think there's anything on the 117 that you would need over the 115 unless you want to toss out your old non-contact indicator and want to start taking the 117 to the job site.

I do have multiple hand held circuit testers for checking power. My second test after that is the back of my hand Not recommending this technique of coure

I believe, I have seen voltages like this, mainly on the a 3 way switch. When one traveler is hot the other traveler screw can show a lower voltage like 20 or 25 volts