FS5W71B Rebuild Thread - Tips tricks and discoveries!

[zKars]

The more I stare at these ratio's the more I want to try case 3!

Case 4 is also a winner if you like the .745 OD and gives you much more reasonable 1st over the stump puller truck ratio

[Dave WM]

slobber slobber slobber.... :)

[240260280]

Low rpm highway cruise would be wonderful!

Light 240z with >2.8l pushing it along ?

[Zed Head]

16 hours ago, zKars said:

The 2-3-4 ratios are nice and close, wonderful for road racing I suppose, but first is about 2.5 miles away from 2nd. I've always been a bit ticked about the huge gap between 1 and 2 in both my Z and now my 510. Not ideal at all for tight auto cross circuits. SO!!!!

Funny that you're "ticked" about the 1-2 gap but the reason people "fawn" over the close ratio units is because it gets rid of the 2-3 gap in the wide ratio transmissions.  Just saying, you're making the same argument just different gears.

If you think that gap is big wait until you shift in to 5th with your Case 3 gear set.  Have you picked a diff ratio?

[zKars]

Feel is such a personal thing, and torque curves and rpm ranges are different in every car. As are driving styles and how I drive 90% of the time. I will have to put it in and try it out to see if I really like it. Swapping trannies is a just nice way to spend an afternoon.

I plan on several long trips in the next couple of years so I hope to make good use of that .65 OD. Got the torque to lope along happy at 2300 at 65 MPH.

I’ll be running 3.9 subie CLSD

currently working on an idea for a jig to make the 62mm bearing opening enlargement easy and relatively fool proof. 

 

Edited December 16, 2019 by zKars

[Zed Head]

Should be interesting.  When I had a 1985 71C from a 300ZX I thought that it had a good balanced spread between gears.  Never got to try it though,

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

[zKars]

I have closer to 24 in tires 

Would be fun to get my little yellow brick to go 150!

My WAG about 2300 at 62 mph/100 kph is pretty close!

[zKars]

So all you machinist's tool makers, inventors or dreamers out there.

If you were going to "create" a 62mm cutter of some sort to put in your mill to enlarge a 56 mm hole, what would it look like? 

PS. 62 mm is just a teeny bit bigger than 2-7/16" (61.92mm) and just a tad smaller than 2.5"... (63.2mm)

I've drilled a LOT of holes in Aluminum with one of these. They make a lovely hole with lube and a gentle hand.

Buy a 2-1/2" one (63.2mm) and machine it down to 62mm, or a 2-7/16" one and weld on / add a cutter ??

That nice round shaft on there is exactly 0.500" to fit in a nice collet chuck.

Centering is simple. I'll lathe up a 56mm puck with a 0.500 hole in the middle that fits oh so nice and tight in the bearing hole, then use a 0.500 rod in my 0.500 collet chuck to get the mill head in the right spot. Then put the bit you-all are designing for me in collet and cut away!  Simple right?

 

 

Edited December 16, 2019 by zKars

[Zed Head]

Just posting for thought. The surfaces.

[240260280]

13 hours ago, zKars said:

If you were going to "create" a 62mm cutter of some sort to put in your mill to enlarge a 56 mm hole, what would it look like?

56mm "dowel" as a guide with a 62mm hole saw fastened to it.

https://www.amazon.ca/62mm-Carbide-Metal-Cutter-Hole/dp/B00L0N0M2W

 

Sort of like this but with a 56mm dowel in the centre to act as a guide

 

 

Edited December 17, 2019 by 240260280

[Captain Obvious]

3 hours ago, zKars said:

If you were going to "create" a 62mm cutter of some sort to put in your mill to enlarge a 56 mm hole, what would it look like? 

Centering is simple. I'll lathe up a 56mm puck with a 0.500 hole in the middle.

Simple... I wouldn't have to create anything. I'd use a boring head who's purpose in life is to do exactly what you described. And if your mill is R8 native spindle, you can skip the collet as well. Use a small one (like 2 inch) and dial it in. Easy-peasy.

And as for the centering, I wouldn't mess around with that either. I'd whip out the Blake co-ax and indicate it in-situ.

Blake is expensive, but there are far-east options that won't blake the bank.

If you don't have a boring head, or a co-ax, you could resort to a fly-cutter and an edge finder.

[Captain Obvious]

I know you know this already, but you always need more tooling.

Always.