FS5W71B Rebuild Thread - Tips tricks and discoveries!

[grannyknot]

Not same but could be made to work, you can borrow either or both, made in the beginning of the last century in Providence R.I. and Athol, Massachusetts.

 

[zKars]

Been busy today proving I can drill, no actually enlarge a hole.

I drilled a 2.25” hole in some 1/2” aluminum plate using my Forstner sawtooth bits, about 57mm, then adjusted my boring head until I got 62mm hole. Well, slightly smaller, actually trying to match exactly the hole in the C type bell housing I have. I’d rather be over so slightly small then enlarge with a bit of sanding to make perfect. 

The insert style bit can easily cut the 57 to 62mm in one pass. Once I get it perfect, I’ll spot weld the boring head and bar into the head for repeated use.

Edited December 19, 2019 by zKars

[zKars]

And if anyone wants pretty tinsel for their Christmas decorations, let me know.

 

 

[zKars]

And some good news tonight about the issue that started this thread, the trans that wouldn’t shift into 5th.

It was in fact the ‘wrong’ shifter. What worked was a shifter from a zx, the one that has the spring loaded center and flat face bushings. The one on the left.

 

What is interesting, is the wrong shifter has a slightly longer hole to bushing tip length than the zx one that works. 
well a day to learn something new is a good day.

 

[wheee!]

Really good work Jim!

[Zed Head]

Does the shifter that didn't work have a mark/notch on the back where it was impacting the case?  I had a 76 4 speed shifter that worked on a 76, 78, 81, and 83 transmission.  Just trying to understand, doesn't make sense.  siteunseen took a grinder to his shifter and made it work better.  @siteunseen

[240260280]

Mr. Chips!

[240260280]

8 hours ago, zKars said:

And some good news tonight about the issue that started this thread, the trans that wouldn’t shift into 5th.

It was in fact the ‘wrong’ shifter. What worked was a shifter from a zx, the one that has the spring loaded center and flat face bushings. The one on the left.

 

What is interesting, is the wrong shifter has a slightly longer hole to bushing tip length than the zx one that works. 
well a day to learn something new is a good day.

 

I found the opposite over 10 years ago.... I guess something changed ?

The ZX hole has degree of freedom to move upward. Perhaps this movement is the key?

[Captain Obvious]

13 hours ago, zKars said:

The insert style bit can easily cut the 57 to 62mm in one pass. Once I get it perfect, I’ll spot weld the boring head and bar into the head for repeated use.

Pretty sure you know this already, but it'll be more accurate if you don't try to do it all in one pass. Flex and all. I would consider a hundred thousandths cut relatively aggressive. And if you're looking for a great cutting oil for aluminum... WD-40.

And your spot weld idea is fantastic. I've got a cabinet of boring heads with the bars welded in for specific diameters. Said no machinist ever.  

 

[Captain Obvious]

14 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Not same but could be made to work, you can borrow either or both, made in the beginning of the last century in Providence R.I. and Athol, Massachusetts.

Yup. That's what I meant with a standard indicator. Doesn't have to be the fancy co-ax. The co-ax just keeps the reading dial facing forward and makes it easier. Not required, but easier.

I use my very old Starrett "Last Word" most of the time. Chuck the tail up in the spindle and take her for a spin:

[zKars]

1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

Pretty sure you know this already, but it'll be more accurate if you don't try to do it all in one pass. Flex and all. I would consider a hundred thousandths cut relatively aggressive. And if you're looking for a great cutting oil for aluminum... WD-40.

And your spot weld idea is fantastic. I've got a cabinet of boring heads with the bars welded in for specific diameters. Said no machinist ever.  

I too was concerned about that amount of cut, but it will be hard to adjust my welded cutter head. 
That is partly why I chose the index bit style cutter. It cuts aluminum like proverbial butter. I’ll cut very slowly.

Thinking back to Philip's early idea of a dual concentric hole cutter, the inner one guiding the outer cutter by riding in the existing hole, I’m now thinking about making my own cutter head with a 22mm dowel on the bottom that mounts the stock ‘B’ 56mm bearing. Let the bearing ride in the existing hole to guide the cutter set out at 62mm. 
 

Maybe I’m getting carried away. Yeah, that’s new...

 

 

Edited December 19, 2019 by zKars

[Zed Head]

Doesn't the Nissan bearing have some play, that will affect the cutter's precision?  

I used that concept to hog out the clearance on the front case for a 71C swap, using a grinding disc, some all thread, and a hand drill.