FS5W71B Rebuild Thread - Tips tricks and discoveries!

[zKars]

CO, yes, I see my jaws don't quite close perfectly, well one of them anyway.   Grrrr... . I'm saying the run out is the lathe's fault. Still that one shaft with the pitting is trash or last resort use anyway. I took the trans apart (again) that has the missing 4th gear set and "borrowed" it's shaft while I wait for a donor to show up.

 Also found one of the sleeves that the needle bearings run on was pretty marked up, under 3rd gear. Switched that out for a better one from the above donor. Now maybe that tranny will make less noise.

Got that seal switched around and buttoned up that trans, again..... I can do this with my eyes closed now.

Wish I could post pictures. 

[Captain Obvious]

Yeah, even if the jaws DO meet together flat and close down completely, the three jaw just isn't the most accurate tool in the drawer. Works fine if you're starting with a piece of stock larger than you need and turn all of the important features without taking the part out of the chuck. That way, even if the chuck isn't accurate, it'll come out in the wash because all the surfaces you turn will be concentric with eachother.

Don't worry about the jaws of the 3-jaw unless they're really really bad. Just understand the limitations and use it accordingly. Use appropriately, it'll produce accurate work.

So you're thinking to yourself... No prob. I can chuck that shaft up in my 4-jaw and indicate it in, right?

Answer - No.

Even if you indicate it to zero at one position out from the chuck, you haven't guaranteed that it's parallel to the ways. You can put something into the 4-jaw crooked and STILL make it run true in one location.

 

[Captain Obvious]

2 hours ago, zKars said:

Got that seal switched around and buttoned up that trans, again..... I can do this with my eyes closed now.

Have I mentioned that one of the transmissions I've been into, I was into so many times that I could do a whole disassembly and reassembly blindfolded. I did it once just to prove I could. 

Simple three speed box, and I was into it way more times than I should have been. And it was all my fault.

[zKars]

So this thread is titled "tips and tricks" so here is one tip and trick. This is related to using the bearing splitter and puller.

I use the puller with long extensions to get the rear main shaft extension housing bearing off, then to pull the very snug bearing sleeve under the 5th gear needle bearing. It requires 16" extensions for one and 18" for the other. Being inherently lazy, and efficiency driven, the ordeal of spinning those 3/8 nuts back and forth on the long rods, or changing from 16 to 18 in rods and having two sets of nuts and washers, I find just too tedious and time consuming. What to do, what to do.... Let's see...

Surely there is a nifty "something" out there that allows you release a threaded nut and slide up and down, then quickly re-connect it with the threads. 

Didn't take much googling to find the concept of a "slip on nut" to be a real thing.

Here is the first thing I found. Two interlocked nuts that rotate to expose an opening, then rotate to lock back on the threads. Found it on Fastenal's website, and low and behold, they actually had some at the store near me. I zoom over, and yes, she pulls out four of them in a baggy, goes to the computer and says "That will $60 bucks please"!

I let out the loudest laugh i have ever produced. She looked at me with very worried and surprised eyes, wondering what I'd say or do next. She managed to say with a straight face, "well, we do have minimum charges....". I apologized for possibly offensive behavior, thanked her for her time, declined the purchase and left..

Home I went to the internet. Found them on McMasterCarr for $5.75 each. BTW these are 3/8-16 thread.  (PN 90125A031)

Even better, I also found on McMasterCarr a much slicker sliding nut system, the "Push Button Slide Adjust Nut (PN 98150A360) for a mere $10.83 each. Of course I bought both items to compare. I had other important things to buy from them as well, so I justified it easily. Like a bag of 25 orings that fit the speedo cog body and  striker rod for $8 bucks (9262k892)rather than the $8 each that Nissan charges you. Same for snap rings (97633A290), and various individual ball bearings that match the ones you always lose when you take the trans apart).....  They are surprisingly all perfect SAE sizes. 0.25 (shifter rod detents), 3/32, etc.

(Yes, it all was more than $60 Canadian, I knew you'd ask....)

Anyway, the push button slider nuts are the best thing out there. Push, slide, release, thread to lock. The nut OD is quite large (over an inch for a 3/8 nut), but for this usage its perfect, as the base is flanged and fit the fingers on the puller head without additional washers.

The two piece slip on nuts work too, but are finicky.

BTW the trick to getting McMaster Carr to sell to Canadians is to register your account with a business name. Don't have to provide proof, just have a name in the box when you fill out their on-line form. I use my zKars handle.

Occasionally the courier driver will ask my name on delivery, I will blurt out my actual name and he will say "but the name on the waybill is ZKars".  I show him a business card I had made up, he's happy. 

 

 

 

 

[240260280]

Getting my geek on!

[Zed Head]

Don't the push button style work by only partial thread engagement?  Only at the button?  Will it survive the stress of the puller?

Guess you'll find out...

[Captain Obvious]

I hoooovered this from the interwebs. Probably from somewhere here on the forum:

[240260280]

Obviously Klingon technology

[Dave WM]

29 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Obviously Klingon technology

I was leaning towards Romulan

[zKars]

On 3/4/2020 at 1:26 PM, Zed Head said:

Don't the push button style work by only partial thread engagement?  Only at the button?  Will it survive the stress of the puller?

Guess you'll find out...

If I had one recurring observation about my experience with working on all these various transmissions, is how little force is required to remove and replace the bearings. There was one day when I was removing one of the bearings from the counter shaft in my press, probably the front one, I took a picture of the pressure gauge on the press. I tried to capture the peak pressure. Pretty wimpy. After the initial "snap" when it starts to move, the guage barely registers for the rest of the motion.

You make a good point though, I would be surprised if they were as strong as a "real" nut, it will interesting to see if there is any problem with thread retention when I next use the puller with these new nuts. I'm not expecting much problem. 

[zKars]

6 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I hoooovered this from the interwebs. Probably from somewhere here on the forum:

When all you have is a three jaw puller, the whole mother of invention thing kicks right in.  I'd be proud to have built that.

[Captain Obvious]

5 hours ago, zKars said:

 I'd be proud to have built that.

Agreed!  Me too!

And as 240260280 pointed out, it's clearly Klingon. I believe it's three bat'leths bolted together.