The 510 I recently picked came with an SR20DET but after opening it up all I could see is money flying away, I let it go cheap and picked up a KA24DE, 5spd trans, ECU and wiring harness for a good price. Pretty grimey but I think it has had an easy life, regular oil changes for sure, the cams are very nice, all the valves, rings and bearings are within spec. Strange thing is 3 cylinders had 175 psi on a cold engine except #3 which was 139 psi, but the rings & piston on #3 were identical to the rest, all good. The exhaust valves guides are pretty sloppy on all cylinders but more so on #3, could worn guides really cause a loss in compression of 36 psi?  I can't find anything else that might be the cause.

The block is stripped down and ready to go out for cleaning and decking but I can't figure out how to get the chain oiler out, I can't figure out if it is pressed in or screwed in, it looks fairly delicate and I'm afraid it will get damaged if I leave it in, any ideas?

 

 

Edited December 8, 20195 yr by grannyknot

No access to it from the backside I assume?

Looks pressed in but I'm guessing

Nissan doesn't even list it or show it on the exploded diagrams.

http://datnissparts.com/timing-chain-oiler-jet-nissan-ka24e-ka24de-13081-40f00/

This is the one I used a while ago when replacing the timing set on my KA24E(single cam) D21 pickup.  I wrapped a shop rag around the existing one and rolled it slowly side to side with some channel locks until it came out.  The new one can be lightly tapped back in place.  I'm not sure about all the differences with the KA motors, their interchangeability, applications and such.  I know there are little differences here and there for Japanese manufactured blocks vs. Mexican Manufactured ones. 

Edited December 8, 20195 yr by Reptoid Overlords

That's the one, the FSM that are free to view on NICO doesn't show it but I found some that do, weird. Thanks.

I think I know where the air is going during compression, the wobbly valves guides combined with these deep pits on one side of both exhaust valves on the #3, it's the only culprit I can point to.

Since I have to get the valve seats done I might as well smooth out all this rough flashing first before taking it to get the machining done, then I can convince myself it's making more power

 

Edited December 8, 20195 yr by grannyknot

I just now remembered that i read somewhere, maybe the Nicoclub S13 forums, that the orientation of the hole on the end of the squirter needs to be pointed up towards the head, like the one in your picture.