Starting Series 1 after 15 years

[ToolBoy]

Hello to all. . . Hopefully someone can shed some light. Starting a jan 71 car with 260 engine I just bought after 15 garaged years. Loaded the cylinders with penetrating oil, waited 3 days. Changed the oil and pre-filled the new filter with oil. Valve cover is off and I'm hand turning the crank and waiting for oil on the rockers. . . Seems like I turned 30 or 40 revolutions so far and still no sign. Do I keep going or order a new oil pump? Thought it would be there by now. . . . .  Andy

[Zed Head]

Turning by hand will not be fast enough.  The oil pump has clearance inside that will allow the oil to leak past the rotor before it builds pressure if you're turning it slowly.

Dribble some oil over the rocker arms and cam lobes and use the starter, with the spark plugs out, and you should be fine.

[w3wilkes]

What about the fuel tank and lines? Did you drain the tank and check for rust in the tank? My car sat for 14 years, I dropped the tank, cleaned and sealed it, replaced all the lines and did a new fuel filter.

[ToolBoy]

Thanks for that! I was told there could be piston scuffing if there was no oil up high in engine and to go slow by hand. Maybe i'll put some oil in the cylinders to follow the penetrating oil that's been soaking.   I haven't gotten to the fuel tank  as I'm not attempting to start it yet. Hoping to circulate oil and compression test for now to see what I've got. Seller under-reported the mileage by 100K but that's another story. I was told the engine was rebuilt 23K miles ago when it was actually 103K miles ago. Dying to see what the compression is.  Gonna clean and test the radiator, replace water and fuel hoses and water pump as it's seized. Was sold to me with webers on and SU's in a box but I don't really want to screw with those webers. Intend to rebuild the su's, install em and then start it. I sold a 72 when I was 26 and I've regretted it ever since. Now I'm 60 and I finally have a Z again!!

[ToolBoy]

Thanks Zed Head and w3wilkes!! Cranking with the starter, tank and fuel lines to come soon!!!. . . Andy

[ToolBoy]

Car has perfect body and no rust but I might be buying a hoist soon. . . 5 speed shifter feels pretty crappy too. . . 

[Zed Head]

1 hour ago, ToolBoy said:

 Maybe i'll put some oil in the cylinders to follow the penetrating oil that's been soaking. 

That would be a good idea.  Penetrating oil is not meant for that type of lubrication. 

Not sure cylinder pressure will tell you much until it's been running and the surface rust has worn off.

The shifter probably feels bad because the bushings are shot.  An easy fix.

[grannyknot]

When you do go to start it up it might be a good idea to bypass the fuel lines and tank and run a small temporary tank from the engine bay to the carbs. The rust in the tank and lines is just going to clog up your nice clean carbs.

When you use the starter to prelube the engine before start up it can take up to 30 secs for the oil to reach the cam.

[ToolBoy]

Thanks Zed, Good to hear about the 5 speed bushings being an easy fix. I will need to go thru all the systems. . . . and I'll do the oil in cylinders. Maybe I won't bother with the compression test just yet. 

Thanks grannyknot. . . Somebody in my neighborhood also suggested bypassing the contaminated fuel system. Sounds like a good idea. And good to know about the 30 second delay.  Couple other questions too. . . Provided I get it started, how long and at what intervals should I run it and at what point would you change the first oil?  I'm also curious about the dual webers that are on the car now. I always really liked the SU's that were on my 72 and this car came with them in a box. Some people say it's a tossup between the two and some say with the present day gas available the webers might be better. I think I was using leaded 91 octane gas in the early 80's. Any opinions? Thx. 

 

[grannyknot]

On an engine that has been sitting for so long I wouldn't go rev crazy on it until you have eased her back into service, maybe out on the highway.  The duration of the run times isn't all that important, just have new good quality oil in it and do 2-3 short oil changes in a row to wash out the grunge.

It is a toss up between the carbs but I believe the SU's will hold their tune longer than the webers, once SU's are properly set up they're rock solid.  You might also take the opportunity with the SU's being separate at the moment to ship them off to ZTherapy for a complete rebuild, they do amazing work and their initial set up is pretty close to perfect or at least both sets I had done by them were.

So when are we going to see some pics of you're car?  This forum can help you solve any problem you might have with you're Z but the price for that is pics.

[EuroDat]

11 hours ago, grannyknot said:

When you use the starter to prelube the engine before start up it can take up to 30 secs for the oil to reach the cam.

I did the same when I bought mine back to life after 19 years. Removed the spark plugs so the starter had an easier job turning the motor. It took about 4 x 10 - 15 second goes to get the oil up to the cam.

Edited December 15, 2019 by EuroDat

[ToolBoy]

Hey grannyknot, Zed Head and EuroDat ( and anybody else who wants to chime in), Took all the AC stuff last night and stripped out the engine compartment for the most part. . . This am I squirted a bunch of motor oil in the cylinders and left the plugs out. Cranked it about 6 times  for a total of over 2 minutes and still no oil spraying on the cam lobes. I'm gonna order a new oil pump, ( what else could it possibly be?? ) . . . and I promise, pictures are coming soon. . . Andy