In my build thread, I posted up a link to a company that will make SS hoses for you cheaper than MSA and to a custom length with custom ends based on your needs

Here is a pic of the slot cut for easy removal of caliper without disconnecting the line. This pic also shows the bend I did for the hardline which was super simple and seems to stay out of the way better than the s-bend, it is further away from the rotor than it looks in this pic.

I used Goodridge hoses like these https://zcardepot.com/products/brake-hose-stainless-steel-lines-kit-240z-260z-280z they are high quality and I have had zero issues with them. If cost is a big concern these Russel lines seem to be a pretty reasonable price https://zcardepot.com/products/brake-hose-braided-stainless-steel-240z-260z-280z but I can't speak to their quality.

Yes I got the pull issue fixed, but I am not 100% sure what it was. My theory was that it was a crushed hard brake line, but when I took it off and cut it the line where it was crushed it still had quite a bit of room for flow. My theory was that it was just flowing slower than the other in low pressure situations ie release the brake pedal and after lots of light stops the brake pad was closer to the rotor than the other side was so the pull happened. If I pushed the brakes hard like at a stop light they would "reset" and not pull until I drove on the highway for a while. Anyways they do appear to be fixed now and I did replace the line so it is possible that the line caused it, but just seems weird that such a minor crimp could cause the issue. Pics of the line are below.

Russel has a very good reputation

Starting in 2003 we have gone from stock fronts and rear drums (autocrossing) to S8W to S12W and drums (track days) to S12W and Wilwood rears(vintage racing). RockAuto calipers taken apart and Swan coated. Have run Porterfield front pads and shoes until our various engines started to overrun the brakes (current: L28 - NA making 260rwhp). Moved to Carbotech 3 years ago all the way around. Brake ducts for the past two years. Motul 660 or 600. We would bleed before each race weekend and at the end of each day but not anymore. Upgraded to 280 booster and 15/16 MC along with stainless lines. Gutted stock prop valve and installed inline valve. Removed all this after 3 years and installed Wilwood pedals, bias adjuster and 3/4 front MC- 5/8 rear with equal length front brake lines the winter of 2018/19.  Now moving to Wilwood front 4 piston calipers (12 inch dia & 1.25 inch wide rotors). Getting out braked by the SCCA guys running their 240/280s as GT-2s. 

All this on 15 inch wheels with either Toyo RA1s ( 225/45/15) or Hoosier R7s (225/45/15-front and 275/35/15 rear). Love the Toyos, they are great from the start if used as rain tires until you wear them down or have them shaved to 5/32. Under 5/32 they are like slicks. Very predictable. Hoosiers are a blast especially with the 10-inch rear wheels. In the rain 225 Hoosier wets all the way around,

I have a set of Porterfield and Nismo rear shoes available.

 

Edited January 7, 20205 yr by gnosez

Love that 33!