Do you still have the OE style 240 slave cylinder?  You can adjust the chatter out if it has the threaded push rod.  Also the clutch pedal itself can be adjusted to a certain length.

38 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Do you still have the OE style 240 slave cylinder?  You can adjust the chatter out if it has the threaded push rod.  Also the clutch pedal itself can be adjusted to a certain length.

ill take a look at this when i get home, if i recall i replaced the clutch master with a unit from Beck n Arnley but i should have the old one in storage... Maybe its something i can adjust.....

Otherwise you know can always send the flywheel to get lightened and a new clutch ? (although i cant seem to find any one local to do this, i called Rebello and they dont offer the service anymore) is TEP the only "known" shop to offer the service ~$300? California Datsun seems to be offering them on ebay ~$200, but not sure if i wanna go down that route...

 

ideally this would be solved with adjustment tho ?

 

I love my Tilton aluminum flywheel!  It turned my 240 into my favorite death trap I no longer have, GSXR750, my family wore me down and I sold it.

MSA has the Fidanza for under $400.  https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22a/21-2021

I don't think I would go back to the adjustable ones that came on the 240 originally.  When I switched to a 5 speed I put a Beck-Arnley self adjusting slave cylinder on mine.

It could be "burnt"?  They get hot and turn a kinda blue color.  A machine shop can cut that out and I would think any, almost any, should be able to lighten your OE flywheel.

Good luck whichever way you go.  Cliff

Crazy mild day

Got the moth balls out of the Z and my latest bike project

I'm making progress on my 2020 race prep.  After getting the engine back in and everything hooked up, I started pulling the rear end apart for the rear disc brake swap.  I got the RH side apart with little drama.  Stub axle and spindle pin are out.  Next up is pulling the LH side and then pressing new wheel bearings into the hubs.  New outer control arm bushings and some paintwork after that and it's ready to go back together.

Spindle pin puller - one, 46 year old Z - zero

I remember there was a thread about tools to remove the rear main cap and thrust bearing cap. Here's mine in use today.

On 3/11/2020 at 10:15 AM, Jeff G 78 said:

I'm making progress on my 2020 race prep.  After getting the engine back in and everything hooked up, I started pulling the rear end apart for the rear disc brake swap.  I got the RH side apart with little drama.  Stub axle and spindle pin are out.  Next up is pulling the LH side and then pressing new wheel bearings into the hubs.  New outer control arm bushings and some paintwork after that and it's ready to go back together.

Spindle pin puller - one, 46 year old Z - zero

If the rear bearings give you any issues with binding on reassembly, you might want to think about adding onto the end of one of the existing rear bearing / hub threads. Might also be a good time to skim those to avoid any issues. Hopefully you'll have no issues...

4 hours ago, Patcon said:

If the rear bearings give you any issues with binding on reassembly, you might want to think about adding onto the end of one of the existing rear bearing / hub threads. Might also be a good time to skim those to avoid any issues. Hopefully you'll have no issues...

Sorry, I am not following.  Can you explain what you mean?

As for progress, I am on hold for a few days.  I threw my back out, so I'm taking it easy trying to calm it down.  I hope to get back under the Z in a few days so I can pull the LH side apart.

28 minutes ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Sorry, I am not following.  Can you explain what you mean?

As for progress, I am on hold for a few days.  I threw my back out, so I'm taking it easy trying to calm it down.  I hope to get back under the Z in a few days so I can pull the LH side apart.

Careful with the back!!!

Several people including myself have had difficulties replacing the rear bearings. On reassembly the rear hub quits rotating when the nut gets torqued down. It is a function of getting the bearings set just right. On mine I took a big hammer to get them right. Maybe somebody could find the threads for me and post a link

Just now, Patcon said:

Careful with the back!!!

Several people including myself have had difficulties replacing the rear bearings. On reassembly the rear hub quits rotating when the nut gets torqued down. It is a function of getting the bearings set just right. On mine I took a big hammer to get them right. Maybe somebody could find the threads for me and post a link

Thanks.  My back acts up from time to time.  I just have to be careful and not over use it.

Ahh, okay.  Yes, I did see threads about the bearings being too tight.  I read "adding onto threads" and was trying to figure out how I add onto an axle thread. 

I plan to ignore the nut torque at first and just worry about end play and breakaway torque.  I bought the ZX nuts, so I'll use the old nuts which now have the peened areas cut off to seat everything and then swap them for the ZX nuts once I'm happy with the install.  Thanks for the heads-up.  Of all the Z's I have owned over the past 38 years, I have never had to do rear bearings.  If this wasn't a race car and I didn't already have to take it apart for the brake swap, I probably wouldn't replace these either.  They had just a tiny bit of play, but not that bad.  I was surprised by how little grease was in there.  Both the inner and outer bearing stayed in the hub and the axle came out with no grease on it.  I haven't removed the bearings or seal yet, but I didn't really see any significant anout of grease anywhere.

1 hour ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Thanks.  My back acts up from time to time.  I just have to be careful and not over use it.

Ahh, okay.  Yes, I did see threads about the bearings being too tight.  I read "adding onto threads" and was trying to figure out how I add onto an axle thread. 

I plan to ignore the nut torque at first and just worry about end play and breakaway torque.  I bought the ZX nuts, so I'll use the old nuts which now have the peened areas cut off to seat everything and then swap them for the ZX nuts once I'm happy with the install.  Thanks for the heads-up.  Of all the Z's I have owned over the past 38 years, I have never had to do rear bearings.  If this wasn't a race car and I didn't already have to take it apart for the brake swap, I probably wouldn't replace these either.  They had just a tiny bit of play, but not that bad.  I was surprised by how little grease was in there.  Both the inner and outer bearing stayed in the hub and the axle came out with no grease on it.  I haven't removed the bearings or seal yet, but I didn't really see any significant anout of grease anywhere.

Me either Jeff.......I’ve never replaced rear bearings. My motto “ If it ain’t broke, don’t break It”

9 hours ago, jonbill said:

I remember there was a thread about tools to remove the rear main cap and thrust bearing cap. Here's mine in use today.

Nice! I bet that works great on the thrust bearing cap. How easy does it work on the rear cap? Mine rear cap(s) took quite a bit of force to pull out.