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I think the lock washers go on the long bolts and flat washer on the short. I have my water pump bolts removed and stuck through a cardboard box and can confirm that in the morning when I get home.


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I bought the full engine stainless steel bolt kit but haven’t put them in yet (still installing pistons) and have all the old bolts saved exactly
as they were removed.


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Against aluminum on our cars it's flat washer against aluminum, then the lock/split washer. I'm pretty sure they use the flat with aluminum only? Probably wrong but hey...

Just checked Carpartsmanual.com and it looks like lock or spring washers on the (2) 8mm and long 6mm  and no washers on the(2) short 6mm. Looking forward to what you have Av8ferg in the morning when you check. Thanks man.

Sorry forgot to mention in first post my car is 10/1971 240z. All the kits mention S30 so don't know if anything changed over the years. With such light torque specs just want to make sure I get it right.

2 hours ago, jackmau said:

I have some anti-seize is that what you are referring to or something else. Thanks

nope I mean the stuff designed for thread sealing. I replaced a pump and used old bolts (they still had junk on the threads) no issue with leaks. On another  Z I used BRAND NEW OE pump bolts, and like you, anti seize, and I had a leak. After that I used some designed for thread sealant, no more leak. My guess is the water works past the anti seize and thru the bolt hole of the pump, from there it leaks. The old bolts had enough junk around the threads to prevent this.

I like to stick that gasket down, especially the small "peninsula" looking piece down with aviation gasket sealer.  It's like glue and holds it in place.

Anti seize works great on those bolts too, they get rusty going into the steel block.  The only thread sealer I can think of is Loctite.  I used the blue medium strength on just about every bolt on my engine.  They have a gel now that comes in a tube like a big magic marker that makes it super easy.

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Edited by siteunseen

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