Oh no I am running megasquirt. But I can’t see any glimpse of the trigger wheels on these setups. 

Mine is a CAS in the dizzy hole.

 

I have a Speeduino with a crank damper trigger wheel, wasted spark and GM 6 cylinder coil pack, but it could work with COP. Cheap and effective.

I am running full sequential.  Hoke crank trigger and jeep cas with a haltech elite 750 ecu

You can get pretty basic triggering with an old dizzy, a spot of welding, and a hall sensor. DIY baby! You don’t even need to thread the hole for the sensor straight! (Yikes!)

Yes, there is a trigger wheel on the crank as well.

 

Edited January 10, 20205 yr by zKars

6 minutes ago, zKars said:

You can get pretty basic triggering with an old dizzy, a spot of welding, and a hall sensor.

I was thinking the same thing... For wasted spark, you don't need any cam position info at all. And for sequential firing, you don't really need a "good" cam sensor.

You get the real "timing" info from the crank wheel. The only thing you are doing with the distributor mounted sensor (cam sensor) for is go/no-go to differentiate whether you're on TDC compression or TDC exhaust.

(As an academic aside) I even wonder if you have an O2 sensor, maybe you could even tell the difference between compression and exhaust strokes by analyzing the exhaust gas composition. When you first turn the key and crank the car, it's 50/50 right?

 

39 minutes ago, zKars said:

You can get pretty basic triggering with an old dizzy, a spot of welding, and a hall sensor. DIY baby! You don’t even need to thread the hole for the sensor straight! (Yikes!)

Yes, there is a trigger wheel on the crank as well.

 

That is a interesting looking setup on there. Right now I was leaning towards a trigger wheels from DIY and the same sensor, but this is definitely interesting.

22 minutes ago, startt21 said:

That is a interesting looking setup on there. Right now I was leaning towards a trigger wheels from DIY and the same sensor, but this is definitely interesting.

So simple. That “Was” a points dizzy I think. Any, including an L4 dizzy can be used.

Once you take it apart, the plate at the bottom had the two pivots for the advance weights. cut the shaft just above, remove the pivot posts, weld on a little square chunk of metal, a weld blob on the other side for a bit of counter balance (very scientific). Machine the case down to just above the cutoff point. Drill a hole for M12 x 1 thread on the sensor at the same height as the new welded on tab. Come up with a lid. I machined a lip to make a 2.75 OD in the case. You can just leave the stock dizzy cap if you want and not shorten the housing at all. If you start with an L4 dizzy, you can get some great looks when folks count 4 towers, let alone that there are no wires.

Best thing is, timing doesn’t matter! Only one wrong place for the sensor line up, ie the exact same spot as when the crank trigger is at the missing tooth. ECU can’t handle that. 

I have a few spare dizzy’s. I can make you one.

Edited January 10, 20205 yr by zKars

zKars I sent you a message.

Only one wrong place for the sensor line up, ie the exact same spot as when the crank trigger is at the missing tooth. ECU can’t handle that. 

I'm pretty sure that will depend on the ecu. I'm confident my Speeduino would be happy with a cam sensor signal at the same time as the crank sensor getting the missing tooth.

8 minutes ago, jonbill said:

 

 

I'm pretty sure that will depend on the ecu. I'm confident my Speeduino would be happy with a cam sensor signal at the same time as the crank sensor getting the missing tooth.

 

You are correct.This is for my Haltech 750.