Bodywork Issues

[grannyknot]

On 1/19/2020 at 4:00 PM, BoldUlysses said:

. The hatch sill was rusted so the shop welded on a new piece.  The rear lip is turned down, as shown.  Is this how it's supposed to be?  I can't find any close-ups online to compare.  It doesn't mate with top corner of the rear finisher panels.  There are also no holes for the finisher panel rivets.  Any input here would be helpful also.

It looks like the lip on the new sill plate is a bit longer than it should be and the lip needs to be pushed down some so the finisher can slip over top. You could take a block of wood, place it on the edge of lip and with a hammer tap the wood while moving it along the lip, it looks like you only need to move it down about an 1/8". If the paint cracks you'll have to touch that up before installing the finisher.

[BoldUlysses]

22 hours ago, Patcon said:

Yes, you can remove the shims under the hinges. which will move it forward, but you have to be very careful the hatch lip doesn't contact the roof! It will remove the paint really quickly if it does.

The hatch looks like it might still be a touch lower than the roof which will add to potential interference

 

10-4.  Thanks for the warning.  It's pretty close when opening as-is.  Will be careful.

 

 

9 hours ago, 87mj said:

Hopefully, this image is helpful.  The hatch sill plate on this car is factory.  The passenger taillight surround is installed but the piece behind the license plate is not.

Please let me know if you need another angle.

Thanks

Yes that's very helpful!  Thank you!  So it looks like the lip on the end of the sill is supposed to be more like a 90° angle down.

9 hours ago, grannyknot said:

It looks like the lip on the new sill plate is a bit longer than it should be and the lip needs to be pushed down some so the finisher can slip over top. You could take a block of wood, place it on the edge of lip and with a hammer tap the wood while moving it along the lip, it looks like you only need to move it down about an 1/8". If the paint cracks you'll have to touch that up before installing the finisher.

Got it; I'll try that.  If/when the paint cracks in the process of bending that lip a little further toward 90°, I'm glad it will be hidden by the finisher---but I've got a bottle of touchup 901 silver just in case.  Thanks!

[inline6]

@BoldUlysses: What paint (manufacturer of the 901 Silver) did you go with?  I tried asking for Glasurit/BASF/Limco, and they had no formula/code for it.

[BoldUlysses]

Update:  I ended up bending the flange UP back to 180° to fit inside the finisher bend.  Trying to bend it down using the block of wood technique just bent the metal above the bend, if that makes sense.

I'll get it more flat, cleaned up and painted, but that ended up being my solution.

 

Now, if only the clips that hold on the bottoms of the finisher panels weren't $30 EACH (one broke).  Sigh...

 

 

[ETI4K]

Yikes!  I forget what they look like.  Where did you see them for sale?

[BoldUlysses]

10 minutes ago, ETI4K said:

Yikes!  I forget what they look like.  Where did you see them for sale?

Voilà:

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/rear-finisher-panel-bottom-clip-parts-for-datsun-240z-sold-individually?variant=15530867359853

$35 actually...  Oof.

[ETI4K]

Oh yeah, now I remember.  No great way to do a workaround, I guess.  Mine are still buried deep in boxes, but I recall they were in good shape.

Thanks for link.