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78 280Z fuel pump and plumbing questions


One Way

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Just beginning to resurrect the rear portion of the fuel system.  Working with the great info from this site on the fuel damper.  Hopefully we will track one down.  Is the OEM pump the way to go for a stock EFI engine or will an aftermarket unit do the job?  Huge price differences.  O'Reilly offers their IMPORT DIRECT brand that appears similar in size and design with correct size inlet and outlet sizes and 2 terminals.  Most of the other aftermarket units seem to be "CAN MAKE IT FIT" varieties with several fittings, rubber cushions, etc.  Would it be wise to install a fuel filter between the tank and pump?  Any suggestions on an inline filter with 1/2" barbs?  What is the best way to do the fuel line to the engine compartment?  I am considering going the high PSI 5/16 injection hose or should we go the steel line route?  Is there stainless tubing available to combat the modern fuel issues and corrosion?  Many new vehicles are using the hard plastic lines now.  All suggestions welcome as I begin the cleaning, blasting, painting process on all the fuel pump brackets and mounts.  Thanks again for this great resource of info on my Z project, John-Lugoff, SC.

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I used the Airtex E8312 for 30,000 miles with no problems, and quiet.  I think it used to be the standard replacement pump at OReilly and other places.  Used to cost about $90, cheaper now. 

What's wrong with the steel lines your car came with?

https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8312-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000DT7Y7K

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Thanks for the response.  The resurrection project is 42 years old, last record of being on the road is 1996-inspection tag on windshield-and the storage was not friendly to this Z.  Some rust on the lines and what you can see on the exposed ends internally does not look good.  Tank and lines did have something in them at one point in time may have been gasoline.  Just want to eliminate a potential problem.  The Z is all torn down and would be much easier to tackle the lines now rather than later.  Any suggestions on using aluminum fuel line or the copper/nickel line.  Everything I have read says the stainless steel line is hard to work with.  Also will have to purchase a flaring tool to put the little knob in the line.  I do not believe the brake flaring kit I have does that? I have only used it to do inverted flares on brake lines in the past.

PART NUMBERS for the damper and fuel pump   BOSCH  16121178035  available at Pelican Parts, BimmerWorld, Turner Motorsports-all BMW specialty houses

                                                                                      IMPORT DIRECT   E16078 available at O'Reilly Auto-looks very close to OEM

                                                                                       BECK-ARNLEY   152-0253-exact match to OEM

Progress on the Z continues to creep along during rare times I am not working, babysitting,  taking care of the family needs, or yard work.  Thanks again. John-Lugoff, SC

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I bought one of the last OE Bosch pumps online in 2012, maybe?  It was $250 back then.  I've seen those Beck Arnleys online for around $350 recently.  A friend has a 280 like mine and he bought one.  Looks just like my Bosch.

The OE ones had some kind of pink Bondo looking goop on the electrical.  I used liquid electric tape on mine and it's still in good shape.  I changed out my "out of tank filter" a few weeks ago and saw it then.

Read this if you haven't yet.  Just about everyone on here has one of these.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

 

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Thanks for the tips.  The fuel pump in my 78 has a 1/2  inch inlet hose .  A little research through WIX found #33299 to be a metal style with 1/2 inch barb ends.  There are not too many inline fuel filters with the 1/2 inch barb unless you go to a high performance style where you thread in your choice of adapters to the filter.  A little strange that Datsun never installed a filter before the pump.  I was very impressed with the booth that INLINE TUBE had at last fall's AUTO FAIR at Charlotte Motor Speedway showing their copper/nickel tubing that bends so easily and smoothly and seemed to flare very nicely too.  I almost bought a roll of the 5/16 for the fuel and a roll of 3/16 for the brakes but passed it up.  Maybe at the spring AUTO FAIR in April I will pick it up and save the shipping.  I have done the inverted flares on brake lines before with my tool but not sure how we can get the  rounded bulge in the line for the fuel hose.  The O'Reilly price on that Beck-Arnley pump is about double the Rock Auto price.  I did not even bother to check my Team Member pricing for that pump.  The Import Direct pump with a lifetime warranty will run me around $80 with my Team Member discount at O'Reilly's.  They do treat their employees very well on parts discounts.  I will keep the project slowly moving forward as time permits.  Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC

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Thanks for the info.  I guess I need to play around with my flaring tool a little bit more.  I am planning to purchase a better tubing cutter-my current one has seen better days-and the neat deburring tool that ONLINE TUBE has to offer.  Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

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My cheap flaring tool has a two step process for making double flairs. The first is a flat disc with a pin that bulges the end of the line. The second is a cone that flairs the line against the clamp body to complete the flair. You can make the bulges by just using the first step and not over doing it

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I picked up a nice double flaring kit at the Charlotte Auto Fair a while back at one of the tool vendors.  Not a name brand kit but looks pretty good, has all the pieces the expensive name brand kits have.  Seemed to work good on the few lines I did on another project but have not used it enough to get real familiar with.  Thanks for the helpful tip, John-Lugoff, SC.

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